• 제목/요약/키워드: clothing textiles

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글래머 스타일의 물신주의적 특성과 미적 가치 (Fetishist Characteristics and Aesthetic Values of Glamour Style)

  • 박주희;김민자
    • 복식
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    • 제57권4호
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    • pp.173-187
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

우리나라 성인여성(成人女性)의 브래지어 구매실태(購買實態)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (A Study on the Purchashing Condition of Brassiere for Korean Women)

  • 김영숙;손희순
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제3권3호
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    • pp.27-37
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

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헤어 패션 감각(感覺)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 수도권(首都圈) 대학(大學) 여학생(女學生)을 대상(對象)으로 - (A Study on the hair fashion feeling - Objecting to capital area university women students -)

  • 안현경;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제9권4호
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    • pp.59-78
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    • 2005
  • This study aims to know the deferences of hair fashion feeling group in accordance with hair styling activities, general characteristics, life styles objecting to capital area university women students and aid to hair fashion design. So the results are as belows. 1. Frequency Analysis of Categories A. Hair fashion feeling - Natural, sexy, romantic pretty, sophisticate, ethnic are 90% in total hair fashion feeling variables in sequence of frequency, so it can be said these are in vogue. B. Hair styling activities - The objections visit the hair salon once 1-2months, spend about 42,000 won a month, perform cut & wave perm to sentimental reasens & hair style changes, determine the hair style well coordinated in her image and managed easily. In her home, they manage her hair style 12 minutes a day, spend 17,000 won to buy hair aids, do hair blow dry or pin or pony tail mainly in the morning, scarcely use the hair styling aids but if use, essence or wax mainly. And the degree of interest to hair style is high. C. General Characteristics - The objections's average age is 21.1, residence is seoul kangnam 23.3%, seoul kangbook 18.4%, other capital areas 58.4%, the degree of education is university students 94.9%, graduated student 5.1%, marriage is married 96%, unmarried 2.8%, family who live with is married are mainly man & woman and living with father & mother in low in man's, unmarried are mainly live alone & nuclear family, personal expenses a month is 300,000 won in average, income of home is 4,000,000 won a month. D. Life style - The objections are not in interest of physical exercises but if are, do yoga & health, like drama & comedies program, watch TV or meet friend in leisure time, like balad & dance music, fashion magazine, meet friend in cafe or college. 2. Relationship of hair fashion feeling & other variables Using the $x^2$-test, level p<0.05, Hair styling activities(frequency of hair salon coming in and out, ordinary time representing hair style, preferred hair styling aids, the amount of hair style interest), General Characteristics(age), Life style(leisure time) variables are meaningful.

황색과 적색계열 천연염색 직물에 대한 사십대 중년층 소비자의 색채감성요인 (Color Sensibility Factors for Yellowish and Reddish Natural Dyed Fabrics by 40s Middle-Aged Consumers)

  • 이은주;최종명
    • 감성과학
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    • 제12권1호
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    • pp.109-120
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    • 2009
  • 본 연구는 천연염색 직물의 색채로 가장 일반적으로 사용되는 황색과 적색 계열의 색채를 대상으로 색채감성요인의 예측모델을 제시함으로써 색채감성에 영향을 미치는 색채감각과 물리적 색채특성을 규명하고자 하였다. 동일한 견직물에 염색한 서로 다른 320종의 천연염색 색채를 군집 분석하여 선정한 각 4종씩의 황색계열과 적색계열의 색채에 대하여 40대 남녀 30명을 대상으로 의미미분법에 의하여 색채감각 및 감성을 평가하였다. 색채감성용어에 대한 요인분석 결과 3개 요인이 도출되었는데, 요인<활동성>에는 $L^*,\;b^*$, '맑다', '밝다'의 감각과 정적상관을 보여서, 명도가 높고 노랑기가 많은 황색계열 천연염색 직물들이 높은 평가를 받았다. 요인<독특성>은 $a^*$와 '따뜻하다'와 정적 상관을 나타내어서, 적색계열 천연염색 직물들에서 더 강하게 느껴지는 경향을 보였다. 요인<편안성>은 색채감각 '강하다'와 부적 상관을 보였는데, 황색과 적색에 따른 차이가 나타나지 않았다. 각 색채감성요인을 정량화하기 위해 단계적 회귀분석을 통해 수립한 예측모델에서 요인<활동성>은 색채특성 $L^*$ 값이 클수록 더 강하게 인지되어서 무매염 황벽 염색 직물의 색채의 <활동성> 요인점수가 가장 높았으며, 요인<독특성>은 색채특성 $a^*$와 색채감각 '가볍다'가 설명변인으로 진입하여서 $a^*$값이 가장 높은 무매염 홍화300% 염색직물이 <독특성> 감성이 가장 강하게 인지되었다. 또한 요인<편안성>은 색채감각 '강하다'가 부적 설명 변인으로 나타났으며, '강하다'의 점수가 가장 낮은 커피100% 알루미늄 2%매염직물 등의 <편안성> 요인점수가 높게 나타났다.

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동작에 따른 피부변화 분석을 통한 동작센서 부착의 최적위치 탐색: 조정 동작을 중심으로 (An Exploratory Study of Searching Human Body Segments for Motion Sensors of Smart Sportswear: Focusing on Rowing Motion)

  • 한보람;박선형;조현승;강복구;김진선;이주현;김한성;이해동
    • 감성과학
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    • 제20권1호
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    • pp.17-30
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    • 2017
  • 하이테크놀로지를 여러 가지 다른 영역과 융합하고자 하는 노력이 다양한 연구 분야에서 시도되고 있으며, 스포츠웨어를 개발함에 있어 운동선수의 운동능력을 향상시키기 위한 분야에 이러한 첨단 기술들이 도입되고 있다. 본 연구는 스포츠 훈련에 도움이 되는 동작 센싱 스마트 스포츠웨어를 개발하기 위한 기초 연구로서, 조정 동작 시 관절의 움직임을 측정할 수 있는 동작 센서를 부착하기 위한 인체상의 최적 위치를 탐색하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 본 연구에서는 일관된 동작을 반복적으로 수행할때 관절의 변화가 큰 조정을 대상 스포츠로 선정하였으며, 조정 선수의 대표 체급인 중량급과 경량급의 피험자를 선정하여 동작에 따른 피부의 변화율을 측정하여 체급별 차이를 분석하였다. 먼저, 3차원 모션캡처 시스템을 이용하여 조정 동작 시 등, 팔꿈치, 엉덩이, 무릎 부위의 피부 변화를 촬영하고, 각 마커 간 거리의 변화율을 분석함으로써 체급에 따른 차이를 보이지 않으면서 동작에 따라 피부의 변화가 큰 부분을 인체 상에 도시하였다. 이를 바탕으로 동작 센싱용 스마트 스포츠웨어를 위한 센서 부착의 가이드라인을 제시하였다.

한국적(韓國的) 패션디자인에 대(對)한 영국(英國) 패션전문가(專門家)들의 인식(認識) 조사(調査) (A Study on the Recognition of Korean Image Fashion Designs by U.K Fashion Specialists)

  • 박혜원
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.69-90
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

모로코인(人)의 장신구(裝身具)와 화장(化粧)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (A Study of the Personal Ornaments and Make-up of Maroccan)

  • 이순홍
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제5권2호
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2001
  • Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

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밀양(密陽) 고법리(古法里) 고분벽화(古墳壁畵)에 나타난 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究) (The Study of Costume in a Mill Yang Kobumri Mural Painting)

  • 조오순;유주리
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제5권2호
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2001
  • When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

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저분자 chitosan이 배추김치 모델시스템의 보존성에 미치는 영향 (The Effect of Low Molecular Weight Chitosans on the Characteristics of Kimchi during Fermentation)

  • 김광옥;문형아;전동원
    • 한국식품과학회지
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    • 제27권3호
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    • pp.420-427
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    • 1995
  • 저분자 chitosan이 김치의 보존성에 미치는 영향을 조사하기 위해 분자량이 다른 4종류의 저분자 chitosan을 양념을 첨가하지 않은 배추김치의 모델 시스템(소금 농도 2%)에 0.5%씩 첨가하고 $20^{\circ}C$에서 발효시키면서 김치의 특성 변화를 살펴보았다. 동일 발효기간내에서 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 pH는 낮고 총산함량은 높았으며 환원당 함량은 발효 6일까지 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 더 낮은 경향이었다. 유기산 중 malic acid 함량은 발효 4일까지 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 낮은 경향을 보였으며, succinic acid 함량은 발효 2일째에 그리고 lactic acid와 acetic acid 함량은 발효 4일째에 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 높은 경향을 나타냈을 뿐 나머지 발효기간에서는 큰 차이를 보이지 않았다. 또한 propionic acid 함량은 발효 6일 이후에 미량으로 나타났으며, 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 높은 경향을 보여주었다. 총균수, Leuconostoc속 미생물 수, Lactobacillus plantarum의 수는 전 발효기간 동안 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 더 많았으며 특히 chitosan 첨가군들은 대조군과 비교했을때 Leuconostoc속 미생물보다 산패균인 Lactobacillus plantarum의 생육을 훨씬 크게 억제시켰다. Leuconostoc속 미생물 수에 있어서 분자량이 적은 chitosan 첨가군들이 분자량이 큰 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 적은 경향이었으며 Lactobacillus plantarum의 수는 chitosan 첨가군들간에 큰 차이를 보이지 않았다. 관능검사로 조사한 신맛과 군덕내는 대조군이 chitosan 첨가군들에 비해 강했으며, 경도는 큰 차이를 보이지 않았으나 대조군이 더 약하게 평가되었다. 또한 이취는 전 실험군에서 모두 약하게 평가되어 이취는 chitosan에 의해 큰 영향을 받지 않는 것으로 나타났다.

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게껍질 Chitin 및 Chitosan의 소화관내 기능성에 관한 in vitro 연구 (In vitro Study on the Functionality in Digestive Tract of Chitin and Chitosan from Crab Shell)

  • 장현주;전동원;이서래
    • 한국식품과학회지
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    • 제26권4호
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    • pp.348-354
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    • 1994
  • 반응 조건을 달리하여 게껍질에서 chitin을 추출하고 이를 탈아세틸화하여 chitosan을 제조하였으며, 이들의 물리, 화학적 특성과 소화관내 기능성을 in vitro법으로 실시하였다. 이들 chitin질의 bulk density는 $127{\sim}208\;mg/ml$, 점도는 0.1% chitin의 경우 $80{\sim}581\;cP$, 0.5%, chitosan은 $80{\sim}3,670\;cP$로 다양한 수치를 나타냈으며, chitosan의 탈아세틸화도는 $81{\sim}93%$로 비교적 높았다. Chitosan 제조시의 알칼리 농도와 반응 온도가 일정할 때 반응 시간이 경과할수록 탈아세틸화도는 증가하였고, 점도는 감소하는 경향을 보였다. Chitin질의 보수력은 온도 상승에 따라 약간 상승하였고, $37^{\circ}C$에서 chitosan D가 가장 높았으며, bulk density가 낮을수록 높은 보수력을 나타냈다. Glucose 흡수 억제 효과는 bulk density가 낮고 보수력이 큰 chitin길이 더 컸고 chitosan D가 가장 높은 38%를 나타냈다. Chitin질의 bile acid 흡수 억제 효과는 투석 1시간 후에 $15{\sim}34%$를 나타냈고, pectin은 39%, cellulose는 9%를 나타냈으며 chitosan D는 3% 농도에서 34%의 가장 높은 억제 효과를 나타냈다.

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