• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.99-108
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• 2021

The present study examines the overall manufacturing status of local wetsuit makers, problems in the manufacturing process, and future research tasks. The study revealed that most manufacturers use neoprene fabric of varying thickness, depending on the body part. Normally, 3 mm-thick fabric is utilized for high-activity body parts and 5 mm-thick fabric is used for high-activity areas requiring thermal insulation. In terms of the manufacturing method, the tools and manufacturing processes used by companies were found to be similar. However, because of the nature of wetsuits requiring a more complicated manufacturing method than that of general clothing, there were some differences in the manufacturing method processes from company to company, such as bonding and ease treatments. According to wetsuit manufacturers, they make incisions in consideration of the body's curvature and the overall shape and design of the wetsuit when developing patterns. For example, most answered that they preform the wrist and ankle parts, where the body's curvature is obvious. On the question regarding the "difficult manufacturing process", the most frequent response was the "bonding" process. Most manufacturers were found to focus on designs that can improve mobility and clothing fit, and commonly experienced low-order quantity as an operational difficulty. As for the question on the wetsuit-related technology needed in the future, the "development of various designs" was the most frequent answer, followed by the "development of lightweight and diverse materials".

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.53-65
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• 2002

Morphology of polyester fiber was physically modified by solvent treatment. PET fiber was treated with N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF) at 100, 120, $140^{circ}C$ for 10 minutes without tension. The structural changes in the morphology of DMF-induced modified PET fiber were FTIR and SEM analysis. Also dyeing behavior of DMF-treated polyester fibers with various disperse dyes was studied to detect changes of amorphous area in fine structure. DMF treatment resulted in increases in total void content, degree of crystallinity, trans isomer content, chain folding, segmental mobility and molecular packing, but it resulted in decreases in amorphous orientation, intermolecular forces and individual void size through longitudinal shrinkage, lateral welling and removal of oligomers. Void-size distribution could be estimated from the dye uptake with various sizes of disperse dyes. In contrast to the large increases in dye uptake with small dye molecules, there is no and little dye uptake with the bulkiest dye, which means that void size is bigger or smaller than the volume of each dye. Diffusion rates of dye molecules showed increases. This dyeing study revealed that the disperse dyeing is very effective method for characterizing the internal morphology of polyester fiber.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.669-684
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• 2016

This study investigates Korean fighter pilot's usage and satisfaction of a flight duty uniform (FDU). The survey was conducted from October 2014 to March 2015 using Focus Group Interview (FGI) and questionnaires. FGI collected qualitative data about duty and requirements; subsequently, surveys were performed to collect quantitative data about wearing conditions and satisfaction with FDU. The results of the FGI and the questionnaire were as follows. Type of pilot duty was divided into two parts, flight duty and ground duty. It is important to consider duties as well as factors related to survival when developing FDU. According to anthropometric data and wearing size, the basic size for apparel grading should be changed from actual size, 'M95XL' to 'M100L'. It is also necessary to improve the whole sizing system. Further studies about body form changes in pilot's movement are needed to improve mobility because the respondents perceived some restrictions at several body parts in movement with the coverall uniform. Summer FDU had a low satisfaction level in vent hole function and appearance. Furthermore, protection problems in the vent hole were also an issue. Making a seasonal classification of FDU fabric will be more effective than a vent hole to increase a pilot's thermal satisfaction. Respondents had a passive stance towards FDU reform (including pocket change); therefore, a new FDU design strategy should concentrate on improving current FDU functions like mobility (or comfort) rather than dramatic changes. Pilots complained about the quality stability of FDU; therefore, quality control by military administration as well as concrete and clear design instructions by the developer should be attained together. The results obtained in this study are expected to be used as an important basis for the further development of FDU.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.646-656
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• 2015

This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1001-1007
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• 2014

We surveyed the wearing characteristics of hip protectors. The problems of existing hip protectors were identified and the directions for improvement were presented. The evaluation of wearing characteristics was conducted on the 100 elderly women (60 to 85 years) with 5 types of hip protector. The questionnaire was composed of history and characteristics on falling, hip protector acceptance, preference, use characteristics and improvement requirements. The result of wearing characteristic evaluation indicated that 52% of the subject experienced falling in winter. Incidents resulting from falling occurred: outdoors (74.5%), bathroom (10.9%), and kitchen (5.5%). Body parts to be protected were in several areas: 35.6% for lumbar, 26.9% for hip joint, and 15% for hip bone. Participants prefer a belt B type design at a rate of 56.9% because it provided a sense of stability by clinging to the body and upholding the waist. Belt B type was the most appropriate in terms of fit, allowance, mobility, and design except pad thickness. To reduce the risk of hip fracture, hip protector needs to be designed in consideration of user's type of fall and body shape. The pattern and size of a hip protector has to be improved in regards to the amount of discomfort. An objective evaluation is needed for the ergonomic design of a hip protector based on and analysis of 3D body image of the elderly and the shock-absorbing quality of pad.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.520-530
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• 2016

This research aims to propose an ergonomic design process for hip protector based on previous studies, existing products, multidisciplinary experts opinion, and wearing test. The elderly are more likely to suffer a hip fracture when they fall due to their physical changes in skeletal form, muscle quantity, bone density, and joint movement. A hip protector is an effective product to prevent hip fractures in the elderly but it also has a problem in that it is uncomfortable. Therefore there is a high chance that it won't be able to prevent hip fractures properly. Since the comfort of a hip protector is one of the most critical elements in preventing a hip fracture, we need to keep improving the hip protector for mobility and usability. Based on the previous studies and limitations of current hip protector products, we need to come up with an optimal design for the Korean elderly. First, knowledge has to be built relating to the ergonomic design of the hip protector considering body shape and size analysis using 3D-scan data, and biomechanical analysis on hip fracture. Second, we need to develop a design process including hip protector pattern design, and wearing evaluation with virtual system. Third, we suggest to reevaluate and verify the design procedure from impact evaluation using testing simulator, virtual evaluation of impact, to wearing comfort and usability evaluation. This design process presented in this study would be expected to contribute to the development of ergonomic hip protector which is suitable for the Korean elderly.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.391-404
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers' demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men's pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women's pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.

• Lingua Humanitatis
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.203-221
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• 2002

The ideal of middle class British masculinity and the representative of the new Victorian respectability, the ″gentleman″ was difficult to define amidst the class mobility and social change of the nineteenth century. Was the gentleman to be identified by class and by money\ulcorner By behavior and clothing\ulcorner By religion and morality\ulcorner This essay focuses on the problem of the ″gentleman″ as it was debated in the Victorian era and as it was reflected in the biography and work of the mid-nineteenth century's most important English writer, Charles Dickens. I examine the critical debate surrounding the Victorian idea of the ″gentleman″ by comparing the arguments of Shirley Robin Letwin's The Gentleman in Trollope(1982) and Robin Gilmour's The Idea of the Gentleman in the Victorian Novel(1981). Letwin views the ″gentleman″ as largely transcending class structure, while Gilmour's more historically-conscious view locates the gentleman as emerging out of, and even enabling, the class negotiations of this period. Against the backdrop of such debates, I discuss Charles Dickens's struggles with the idea of the gentleman in theory and in practice. In his novels, especially his semi-autobiographical bildungsromane about the growth and development of boys into adulthood, Dickens prominently engages with the identity and definition of the gentleman. As I demonstrate in this essay, this interest originated from Dickens's own childhood trauma and his subsequent drive to attain gentility, a necessity complicated by the vicissitudes of his personal and professional life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.101-114
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to delve into the features of paradigm in conjunction with changing convergence culture in the 21st century's knowledge-based society, the influence of convergence paradigm on fashion, and changes in convergence culture. After identifying the features of the paradigm of knowledge-based society in association with changing convergence culture, the characteristics of fashion paradigm were examined in con=junction with the characteristics of the paradigm, and the convergence phenomena of modern fashion were investigated to figure out fashion trends. The findings of the study were as follows: According to the features of ubiquitous technology based on the theories of Mark Weiser and other futurologists, the characteristics of changing convergence culture in knowledge-based society could be classified into invisibility, relationship and materialized virtuality. When relevant theories were reviewed, invisibility, relationship and materialized virtuality are identified as the unique features of the paradigm of changing convergence culture in knowledge-based society. But those characteristics aren't separate concepts. Instead, they are being connected and fused together, thanks to universalized digital technology and ubiquitous technology. Changing convergence culture has brought a change to fashion paradigm as well. There is a type of design that lets all the characteristics stand out, and another design fuses just some of them together conceptually or formally. That is, fashion paradigm is marked by a combination of invisibility, relationship and an embodiment of virtual reality to be in line with changes in convergence culture.