• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to pursue the way of human body expression for prospecting of future fashion illustration through research of the methods and meaning expressed in the works of 30 years by Antonio Lopez. The research was conducted by looking into the perception of the body between 1960s and 1980s, when Lopez worked actively, on the basis of the discourse, art and fashion for the femininity and studying the representation method and meaning of the body in his works. Lopez suggested an index of the ideal beauty of the times through the representation of the immature body like a child in the 60s, the glamorous body in the 70s and the exaggerated muscular body in the 80s by predicting the changes of the perception of femininity and ideal beauty. As the result of this research, it is found that Lopez employed the art form for the representation of the body in his works and presented the polysemous implications of the art form in the context of the body expression. In addition, he redefined sexuality by focusing on the code that confronted the conventional women's morals by changing the representation method of the women's pose, and depicted the other's image such as the colored races, departing from the ideal human body based on the white women. Lastly, he deconstructed the human body in various ways, thereby enlarging the concept of the human body in the existing fashion illustration.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2016

Since the development of patterns using tessellation is applied to a wide range of fields such as clothing, architecture, environment, and products, etc. and its expression principle is also found in various fields such as mathematics and science, etc. However, this pattern is mostly used as a math material with little studies on fashion and culture. In addition, it is thought that Korean traditional culture products need more various and modern design development methods and pattern through preliminary investigation which is simple copy of traditional items, simple copy of Korean Alphabet, Chinese character, and folk paintings. Therefore, it will present the method to make more design cases using Tessellation. Tessellation that combines mathematics and art will be the infinite form of designing of designers as well as creative training way to understand the composition principles of old culture and to raise sense of modern design. Tessellation of regular triangle, regular square, and regular hexagon was performed on the patterns which have meaning of wealth and prosperity of Korean traditional patterns. As the concrete method, first, each side of the regular triangle is developed symmetrically with patterns of fish, turtle, and cicadas. Second, rotational movement after symmetry movement about middle point of one side ${\times}$ 1 symmetry movement about middle point ${\times}$ 1 using crane and cloud, of the regular triangle was performed. Third, the regular square was tessellated parallel movement ${\times}$ 2 with "Da(multi)" and dragon pattern as the source image. Fourth, the sitting tiger was tessellated with symmetry movement about middle point ${\times}$ 2 and parallel movement ${\times}$ 1. Fifth, three bat patterns are tessellated by again rotational movement of two sides after rotational movement of one side and rotational movement of the other side. In addition, It developed traditional culture product design of the scarf, umbrella, aprons, neckties.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.85-94
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• 2006

In Korea, popular stars were the leaders of the latest fashion, who had the strong power in apparel market. Costume, especially wedding dress they worm became the focus of interest to single women of marriageable age and wedding dress co. This study was performed to research wedding dress design (silhouette, veil, sleeves, materials, and details) from 1960's to June. 2004. Resources were extracted from the weddings photos, 'My Wedding' magazine, 'Vogue Korea' magazine and web sites. The materials, which could not be judged on the photos, were researched from text articles. The popular stars were TV stars, musicians, and actresses. The results of this study were as follows: The wedding dress in Korea from 1960's to June 2004 had different distinguishing characteristics. 1. In 1960's, wedding dress was characterized with A silhouette, long veil, set in sleeves, and hair decoration. 2. In 1970's, H silhouette decorating by belt, long veil, puff sleeves, and ruffles hemline were in vogue. 3. In 1980's, Victorian style designed by long and wide width, the leg of mutton sleeves or tightly fitted sleeves, short veil and pearl coronet, flower decoration became popular. 4. In 1990's, to reach the elegance or romantic image, it was used race, ribbon, frill, etc., on the base of 1980's wedding dress design. Generally the girlish styles which expressed innocent and pure and feminine were in fashion. 5. In 2000's, the keyword of both luxury and simple were intended. Silhouette was designed variously, but it became slimmer and simpler. The decoration was splendorous with race, embroidery, and beads.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.44-58
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• 2006

Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.63-80
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has been mentioned as an important term for explaining a beauty of dress and a fashion image through the times in the history of dress. Nevertheless, it has been spoken indeterminately without analyzing the accurate meaning. In addition, almost all the scattered discourses of it were very limited to womenswear. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the concept of elegance and its aesthetic characteristics expressed visually on dress from the holistic viewpoint, focusing on male elegance in dress. To obtain the purpose, the documentary study and the practical analysis were carried out. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. Its aesthetic values consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. Though male elegant styles had already existed throughout the history of dress, it was Mannerism in the 16th century which expressed ‘studied elegance’ for the first time. On the grounds of both the classification of periodic styles and the periodic values, they can be defined and categorized into Mannerism Elegance, Salon Elegance, Modern Elegance Since Dandyism, Aestheticism Elegance. In the late 20th century they can be recognised as Classic Dandyism Elegance, Soft Casual Elegance, Elaborate Heroic Elegance. Although male elegance in dress has been visualized in different ways depending on periodic values, it has essentially been a refined beauty of high class which was valued until recent years. Its common plastic features appear as soft shapes, subtle colors and delicate fabrics modulated with exquisiteness and well-adorned appearance, graceful behavior make elegant styles completed. All of elegant styles have m common with refinement, harmony as main aesthetic values.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2014

The study aims to determine the significance and characteristics of self-similarity inherent in natural objects or phenomena, the existence of self-similarity in design created by fashion designers, and the traits and internal significance implied in self-similarity and their effects on fashion. The subject of the study is Viktor & Rolf, and the scope of the study is the collections created from 2001 to 2014, which include designs implemented in their early years and those unveiled in the media. Self-similarity means attributes of a fractal structure appearing without change in the original form, even after modification of scale or direction in terms of shape or phenomena. As self-similarity is applied to the arts and design sectors, it leads people to pay attention to fundamental characteristics and intrinsic forms as a factor of expressing a unique creative world. Analysis of Viktor & Rolf collections generated ribbons, overlapping/juxtaposition, side decorations and exaggerated design elements as basic units of self-similarity. These factors had self-similarity rates as high as 84%. Self-similarity was established as design elements formed in the incipient stage were repeated in a certain form, and continued for a long period of time. It served as an element that recognizes design and a fashion designer at the same time. Characteristics of self-similarity appearing in Viktor & Rolf collections can be summarized as homeostasis based on an equivalent relationship, balance based on self-organization, reducibility into essential elements, and uniqueness based on odd shapes. These characteristics influenced the pursuit of consistent brand image, the maintenance of a fashion designer's creative world, the formation of styles and the expression of a fashion designer's identity.