• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.102-115
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to comprehend the internal meaning and the external form in style of Greek statue's clothing in the light of linked solution, and to compare the characterizations of style of Greek statue's clothing with those in Greek Art. For these purpose, the theoretical studies about Greek art are preceded as a framework of this research, and then plastic characteristics of Greek statue's clothing and Greek art are analyzed by the documentary studies, For sources, photographs of Greek statue in Archaeological Museum and Louvre museum are used. The result is as follows. It is demonstrated that the characters of internal meaning in style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing. The internal meaning of style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing are as follows 1) Beauty of vital is subject that possessed life and movement and embodied dynamics or inherent power. 2) Beauty of moderation is subject that achieves some of its most impressive and practise a similar economy and restraint. 3) Beauty of character is subject that reveals the character of its wearer and has its own charm and distinction The Greeks clarified beauty by looking for mathematical proportions. It is the interrelation of part with one another, and with the whole, together with the additional element of good colour, which constitutes beauty as perceived by the eyes. The beauty in style of Greek statue's clothing consists of a sense of geometrical pattern, oder, symmetry, proportion, and rhythm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.103-117
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.71-84
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• 2005

Fibulae have been used as clothing fasteners throughout history. They were especially popular with the Celts, but were also used by the Greeks, Romans, Saxons, and Vikings, to name a few. The earliest examples are found in the Mediterranean and Middle East, and date from 800 B. C. and earlier. Their use continues today, in the form of the modern safety pin. The first fibulae of the Bronze Age were very simple, much like modern safety pins. The form of this small functional object varies from simple to extravagant since it is also seen as a piece of jewelry, and is thus subject to the evolution of style. Its size depends on the thick/Jess of the clothing to be attached. Its fabrication demonstrates a great mastery of metal work. Fibulae would vary with the taste and wealth of the wearer. The Fibulae were divided into 10 styles according to the shape, Fibulae with Safety pin shaped style, Penannular shaped style, Animal shaped style, Diamond shaped style, Radiated head shaped style, Horsefly shaped style, Arched bow shaped style, Fan-shaped style, Trumpet shaped style, Arched-fan shaped style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.268-285
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• 1989

The purpose of this thesis is to understand the concrete forms of the traditional Chinese trousers and finally to compare the forms and cuts of the Chinese, Japanese and Korean trousers, which shared the same form in the beginning. The literature survey helps to draw the following conclusions: 1. The first trousers of ancient China were adapted from the nomadic people of the North Asia. 2. The ancient Chinese had both forms of trousers consited of(a) I-letter typed crotch line and (b)$\lambda$-letter typed crotch-line. 3. The folk trousers of China consist mainly of $\lambda$-letter typed seamline which is the trouser form shared among some of the North-Eastern Asiatic people. 4. The open trousers are worn over the closed crotch trousers. 5. The open crotch trousers seems to be developed from the leggings of the nomadic people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.727-738
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• 1994

It has been representing the delicate changes which express new sentiments through the floating, fluid, free look with the transparent, sheer material in fashion during the early 1990's. The concept of lightness is selected to describe the phenomenon of recent fashion. The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characteristics of lightness as external forms and internal meaning in fashion of the early 1990's. The data were collected from fashion magazines such as American Vogue, Italian Vogue from 1987 to 1994. The characteristics of lightness of fashion in the early 1990's are as follows; The external forms are consisted of the material such as the transparent, sheer, soft material, of slim and bell silhouette which occupying the more space in bottom, of the drapery, pleats to shape the unfitted look and is identified as the open, whole, indeterminate and planar intergration form according to the category of clothing form suggested by Belong. It is also the reflection of the social changes which is getting out of the modernity. It is the results of the dominant social state which are diffused the sensual pleasures, transitoriness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.560-565
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to extract information of body form's classification on elderly women. We measured 242 subjects from 55 to 75 years of age, using 27 direct measurement items and 25 body indices. We analyzed these indices with factor analysis, cluster analysis We obtained these following results 1) Through factor analysis, 4 factors (obesity of torso, location of upper torso items, length of upper torso, location of lower torso items & shoulder length) were extracted from body indices. 2) Through culster analysis, we categorized 4 clusters. Namely, type 1, characterized the best slender type, type 2; characterized obesity type, type 3: characterized middle sized type ; type 4: characterized by fat type less than type 2. We considered that type 3 is the typical type on elderly women. Since analysis using indices is very profitable, it may be necessary to design dummies and patterns for clothing manufacture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2012

Clothing design is one of design products for human, the end user and corresponds to artifacts. Sometimes artifacts with one mono module exist, and so does artifacts assembled and combined with multi modules of same shape and size or various shapes and sizes and thus all design products can be understood by modularity concept. The purpose of this study was to make a new suggestion for the clothing design and production of high uniqueness and creativity by reviewing and synthesizing the foundation of clothing modularity concept as the original clothing design figures from the history have shown various modularity concept evolution from mono module to multi module stages. The methods of this study were to identify clothing modularity and analyze the type, evolving direction, and category of clothing modularity, and the value of clothing modularization design through comprehensive literature reviews on topic-related books and theses. The original clothing figures with Significance from the clothing history were analyzed in evolution sequence for application direction and value of clothing modularity in flat pattern. Clothing modularity in ancient clothing figures was classified as three types of the fixed, drapery, and straight lined in evolving direction from clothing of mono module to flat patterned clothing. The direction of clothing modularity was identified as mono- dual-triple-multi into another level of multi modularity after intentional devolution. The categorization of clothing modularity was identified in terms of clothing flat construction, clothing design construction, and clothing form modeling. The value of clothing modularization design using clothing modularity was identified as economical efficiency, convenience, promptitude, adaptability, functionality, and creativity.