• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.267-283
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• 2015

This study aimed to characterize the use of spices in Korean cookbooks published from the 1400's to 1700's. We conducted a content analysis of seven old cookbooks ("Sangayorok", "Suunjapbang", "Eumsikdimibang"), "Yorok", "Jubangmun", "Somunsaseol", and "Jeungbosallimgyeongje"). We collected a total of 238 food recipes, including spices as ingredients. We analyzed the types of spices used and characteristics of the recipes according to 18 dish groups. As results, a total of 10 spices were used as ingredient: ginger, pepper, Chinese pepper, garlic, sesame, chili, mustard, cinnamon, fennel, and clove. Among 238 food recipes analyzed, ginger was used most often (40.3%), followed by pepper (36.1%), Chinese pepper (30.3%), garlic (17.2%), and so on. In particular, chili was used in 18 different kinds of food recipes, which were "Somunsaseol" and "Jeungbosallimgyeongje" published in 1700s. Spices were used in different dish groups mostly as condiments. Among 18 dish groups, Chimchae was the most frequent dish group (44 recipes), followed by Jjim Seon (31 recipes), Jang Yangnyeom (20 recipes) and rice cake cookie (20 recipes). Pepper or Chinese pepper were the most frequently used spices in all food groups except Chimchae, Hoe, Jang Yangnyeom and rice cake cookie, in which garlic, ginger, sesame and ginger were used most frequently, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.129-139
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• 2014

This article examines the different types of Mandoo as recorded in 15 royal palace studies from the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). The types of Mandoo during the Joseon dynasty were Byeongsi (餠匙), Mandoo (饅頭), EMandoo (魚饅頭), Rukmandoo (肉饅頭), Yangmandoo (月羊饅頭), Saengchimandoo (生雉饅頭), Golmandoo (骨饅頭), Dongkwamandoo (冬果饅頭), Chaemandoo (菜饅頭), Chimchaemandoo (沈菜饅頭), and Saenghapmandoo (生蛤饅頭). The frequencies of the different Mandoo types during the Joseon dynasty were in the following order: Mandoo (29.8%), Emandoo (19.1%), Rukmandoo (14.9%), Byeongsi (12.8%), Yangmandoo (6.4%), Saengchimandoo (4.3%), Golmandoo (4.3%), Dongkwamandoo (2.1%), Chaemandoo (2.1%), Chimchaemandoo (2.1%), and Saenghapmandoo (2.1%). "Muja-Jinjakeuigwe (戊子進爵儀軌)" (1828년) gijumi (起酒米) is not used, suggesting that Koreans could see perched Mandoo. "Musin-Jinchaneuigwe (戊申進饌儀軌)" (1848) configurations of materials Mandoo, SoongChimchae (沈菜), Dupo (豆泡), Nokdujangum (綠豆長音). Now, we enjoy mandoo's ingredients based documents materials. Further studies will be conducted on recipes and ingredients recorded in Euigwe in order to develop a standardized recipe for Mandoo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.112-128
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• 2019

The history of modern Korean 'kimchi' can be traced through the history of the wordforms 'dihi' (디히), 'dimchʌi' (딤?), and 'thimchʌi' (팀?) in ancient Korean texts. As native Korean words, the 'dihi' word line ('dihi', 'dii', 'jihi', and 'ji') constitutes an old substratum. This word line coexisted with the 'dimchʌi' word line (dimchʌi, jimchʌi, and kim∫chi) from the Hanja '沈菜'. 'Ji', which is the last word variation of 'dihi', and is still used today as the unique form in several Korean dialects. In standard Korean, however, it only serves as a suffix to form the derivative names of various kimchi types. 'Dimchʌi' is believed to have appeared around the $6^{th}-7^{th}$ centuries, when Silla began to master Chinese characters. Hence,'dimchʌi' reflects either the Archaic Chinese (上古音) or the Old Chinese (中古音) pronunciation of the Hanja, '沈菜'. With the palatalization of the plosive alveolar [t], 'dimchʌi' changed to 'jimchʌi'. The Yangban intellectuals' rejection of the palatalization of the plosive velar [k] led to the hypercorrection of 'jimchʌi' into 'kimchʌi'. It is precisely the hypercorrect 'kimchʌe' that gave the wordform 'kim∫chi', which has eventually become the standard and predominant form in today's Korean language. Regarding 'thimchʌe', it reflects the Middle Chinese (Yuan Dynasty) pronunciation of the Hanja '沈菜' and was used mainly in writing by Yangban intellectuals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.265-273
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• 2021

The Chinese Sigyeong records the foods of the Primitive Pickling Period, pickling being a universal vegetable storage method, but does not indicate the origin of the pickled vegetables or the location of the source of transmission. Kimchi mainly used salt and sauce-based soaking materials at the beginning of the Fermented Pickling Period (beginning in the 1st to 3rd centuries A.D.), and it differed from the Chinese method, which used alcohol and vinegar. In the Umami-Flavored Pickling Period (beginning in the 14th and 15th centuries A.D.), jeotgal, fermented seafoods, were added, and pickles with a completely new identity were created, one different from any other pickles in the world. Lastly, entering the Complex Fermentation and Pickling Period (beginning in the 17th and 18th centuries), the technical process evolved using a separate special seasoning containing red pepper as the secondary immersion source after pickling in brine, the primary immersion source. As a result of this, kimchi was transformed into a food with a unique form and taste not found anywhere else. The unique characteristic of kimchi is that the composition of original materials, a combination of salted marine life and vegetable ingredients, is its core identity, and there is a methodological difference in that it is completed through a second process called saesaengchae (生菜)-chimchae (沈菜).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.495-507
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• 2019

This study investigates the Gabo Jaedong Jemuljeongnyechaek, which is the recording of the darye executed over a period of a year in 1834 ($34^{th}$ year of reign by King Sunjo) in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, two years after the death of Princess Bokon, the $2^{nd}$ daughter of King Sunjo. Accordingly, we examined the types of darye (tea ceremonies) and the characteristics of the composition of foods at ancestral rites of the royal families of Joseon. Moreover, we also analyzed the cooking methods and characteristics of food terminologies used in the darye. This includes 39 categories of food and ingredients used for tea ceremonies held for one year, on behalf of the deceased Princess Bokon in 1834. The darye for the monthly national holiday was held along with the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ day of every month. The darye for rising up and the birthday darye were held on May $12^{th}$ and October $26^{th}$ of the lunar calendar, being the anniversaries of the death and the birth of Princess Bokon, respectively. The birthday darye and the darye for New Year's Day, Hansik ($105^{th}$ day after winter solstice), Dano ($5^{th}$ day of the $5^{th}$ month of the lunar calendar), and Thanksgiving "Chuseok" were held in the palace and at the burial site of the Princess. During the darye for rising up in May and the Thanksgiving darye at the burial site in August, rituals offering meals to the deceased were also performed. The birthday darye at the burial site of Princess Bokon featured the most extensive range of foods offered, with a total of 33 dishes. Foods ranging 13~25 dishes were offered at the national holiday darye, while the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ of the month included 9~11 food preparations, making them more simplified with respect to the composition of foods offered at the ceremony, in comparison to the national holiday darye. The dishes were composed of ddeok, jogwa, silgea, hwachae, foods such as tang, jeok, jjim, hoe, and sikhae, and grain-based foods such as myeon, mandu, and juk. Foods offered at the burial site darye included 12~13 dishes comprising ban, tang, jochi, namul, chimchae, and jang. Meals offered at the darye had a composition similar to that of the daily royal table (sura). Darye recorded in the Jemuljeongnyechaek displayed characteristics of the seasonal foods of Korea. Jemuljeongnyechaek has detailed recordings of the materials, quantities, and prices of the materials required for preparations of the darye. It is quite certain that Jemuljeongnyechaek would have functioned as an essential reference in the process of purchasing and preparing the food materials for the darye, that were repeated quite frequently at the time.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.739-751
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• 2015

This study investigated the table settings used in Bul-chun-wi sacrificial rituals in Sangju, Gyeongpook Province. This study took place from May 2014 to April 2015 and incorporated field research and literature review. The subjects of the study were Sojae jongga (family head), Wolgan jongga, Ubook jongga and Ipjae jongga. There were four rows in the table setting of the Wolgan, whereas there were five rows in the other jonggas. In row 5, there were fruits, seeds and confections. In row 4, there were vegetables. In row 3, there was tang (stew); in row 2, juk (steamed meats or fishes) and pyun (rice cake); and in row 1, meh (boiled rice), geng (soup) and myun (noodles). The common food setting was arranged in the order of meh, geng, myun, ganjang (Korean soy sauce), poh (dried meat/fish), chimchae (water kimchi), dates, chestnuts, pears, persimmons, walnuts, bracken, bellflowers, croaker, pyun, and ssam (rice wrapped in lettuce leaves). Ubook jongga had the most number of stews at seven. Sojae and Ipjae jongga each had five stews, and Wolgan jongga had three. The smaller Wolgan jongga had gehjuk (boiled chicken), uhjuk (steamed fish) and yookjuk (boiled meat) arranged in a neat pile on one dish used for rituals, whereas Ubook jongga had gehjuk, uhjuk and yookjuk arranged separately. Sojae and Ipjae jongga had gehjuk arranged separately while yookjuk and uhjuk were arranged as dojuk (gehjuk, uhjuk, yookjuk). The uhjuk was arranged separately. In Wolgan jongga, po was arranged on the right while in the other jonggas, it was arranged to the left. For raw meat Ubook jongga, raw mackerel; Ipjae jongga, raw croaker, and Sojae jongga Yukhoe (beef tartare) were set. However, pork, chicken and croaker were cooked. Other ritual food were used in seasoning and boiling. In the geng Wolgan and Ipjae jongga used miyeokguk (seawood soup), whereas Sojae and Ubook jongga used tangguk (meat soup with vegetables). For the ritual food, most jongga ordered yoogwa, yakgwa and bonpyun as one part, rice cakes (steamed rice cake, glutinous rice cake, jeungpyun, gyungdan), and jehju (alcohol). The other ritual food was prepared on the day by jongga.