• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.267-283
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• 2015

This study aimed to characterize the use of spices in Korean cookbooks published from the 1400's to 1700's. We conducted a content analysis of seven old cookbooks ("Sangayorok", "Suunjapbang", "Eumsikdimibang"), "Yorok", "Jubangmun", "Somunsaseol", and "Jeungbosallimgyeongje"). We collected a total of 238 food recipes, including spices as ingredients. We analyzed the types of spices used and characteristics of the recipes according to 18 dish groups. As results, a total of 10 spices were used as ingredient: ginger, pepper, Chinese pepper, garlic, sesame, chili, mustard, cinnamon, fennel, and clove. Among 238 food recipes analyzed, ginger was used most often (40.3%), followed by pepper (36.1%), Chinese pepper (30.3%), garlic (17.2%), and so on. In particular, chili was used in 18 different kinds of food recipes, which were "Somunsaseol" and "Jeungbosallimgyeongje" published in 1700s. Spices were used in different dish groups mostly as condiments. Among 18 dish groups, Chimchae was the most frequent dish group (44 recipes), followed by Jjim Seon (31 recipes), Jang Yangnyeom (20 recipes) and rice cake cookie (20 recipes). Pepper or Chinese pepper were the most frequently used spices in all food groups except Chimchae, Hoe, Jang Yangnyeom and rice cake cookie, in which garlic, ginger, sesame and ginger were used most frequently, respectively.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2014

This article examines the different types of Mandoo as recorded in 15 royal palace studies from the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). The types of Mandoo during the Joseon dynasty were Byeongsi (餠匙), Mandoo (饅頭), EMandoo (魚饅頭), Rukmandoo (肉饅頭), Yangmandoo (月羊饅頭), Saengchimandoo (生雉饅頭), Golmandoo (骨饅頭), Dongkwamandoo (冬果饅頭), Chaemandoo (菜饅頭), Chimchaemandoo (沈菜饅頭), and Saenghapmandoo (生蛤饅頭). The frequencies of the different Mandoo types during the Joseon dynasty were in the following order: Mandoo (29.8%), Emandoo (19.1%), Rukmandoo (14.9%), Byeongsi (12.8%), Yangmandoo (6.4%), Saengchimandoo (4.3%), Golmandoo (4.3%), Dongkwamandoo (2.1%), Chaemandoo (2.1%), Chimchaemandoo (2.1%), and Saenghapmandoo (2.1%). "Muja-Jinjakeuigwe (戊子進爵儀軌)" (1828년) gijumi (起酒米) is not used, suggesting that Koreans could see perched Mandoo. "Musin-Jinchaneuigwe (戊申進饌儀軌)" (1848) configurations of materials Mandoo, SoongChimchae (沈菜), Dupo (豆泡), Nokdujangum (綠豆長音). Now, we enjoy mandoo's ingredients based documents materials. Further studies will be conducted on recipes and ingredients recorded in Euigwe in order to develop a standardized recipe for Mandoo.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.112-128
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• 2019

The history of modern Korean 'kimchi' can be traced through the history of the wordforms 'dihi' (디히), 'dimchʌi' (딤?), and 'thimchʌi' (팀?) in ancient Korean texts. As native Korean words, the 'dihi' word line ('dihi', 'dii', 'jihi', and 'ji') constitutes an old substratum. This word line coexisted with the 'dimchʌi' word line (dimchʌi, jimchʌi, and kim∫chi) from the Hanja '沈菜'. 'Ji', which is the last word variation of 'dihi', and is still used today as the unique form in several Korean dialects. In standard Korean, however, it only serves as a suffix to form the derivative names of various kimchi types. 'Dimchʌi' is believed to have appeared around the $6^{th}-7^{th}$ centuries, when Silla began to master Chinese characters. Hence,'dimchʌi' reflects either the Archaic Chinese (上古音) or the Old Chinese (中古音) pronunciation of the Hanja, '沈菜'. With the palatalization of the plosive alveolar [t], 'dimchʌi' changed to 'jimchʌi'. The Yangban intellectuals' rejection of the palatalization of the plosive velar [k] led to the hypercorrection of 'jimchʌi' into 'kimchʌi'. It is precisely the hypercorrect 'kimchʌe' that gave the wordform 'kim∫chi', which has eventually become the standard and predominant form in today's Korean language. Regarding 'thimchʌe', it reflects the Middle Chinese (Yuan Dynasty) pronunciation of the Hanja '沈菜' and was used mainly in writing by Yangban intellectuals.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.265-273
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• 2021

The Chinese Sigyeong records the foods of the Primitive Pickling Period, pickling being a universal vegetable storage method, but does not indicate the origin of the pickled vegetables or the location of the source of transmission. Kimchi mainly used salt and sauce-based soaking materials at the beginning of the Fermented Pickling Period (beginning in the 1st to 3rd centuries A.D.), and it differed from the Chinese method, which used alcohol and vinegar. In the Umami-Flavored Pickling Period (beginning in the 14th and 15th centuries A.D.), jeotgal, fermented seafoods, were added, and pickles with a completely new identity were created, one different from any other pickles in the world. Lastly, entering the Complex Fermentation and Pickling Period (beginning in the 17th and 18th centuries), the technical process evolved using a separate special seasoning containing red pepper as the secondary immersion source after pickling in brine, the primary immersion source. As a result of this, kimchi was transformed into a food with a unique form and taste not found anywhere else. The unique characteristic of kimchi is that the composition of original materials, a combination of salted marine life and vegetable ingredients, is its core identity, and there is a methodological difference in that it is completed through a second process called saesaengchae (生菜)-chimchae (沈菜).

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.495-507
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• 2019

This study investigates the Gabo Jaedong Jemuljeongnyechaek, which is the recording of the darye executed over a period of a year in 1834 ($34^{th}$ year of reign by King Sunjo) in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, two years after the death of Princess Bokon, the $2^{nd}$ daughter of King Sunjo. Accordingly, we examined the types of darye (tea ceremonies) and the characteristics of the composition of foods at ancestral rites of the royal families of Joseon. Moreover, we also analyzed the cooking methods and characteristics of food terminologies used in the darye. This includes 39 categories of food and ingredients used for tea ceremonies held for one year, on behalf of the deceased Princess Bokon in 1834. The darye for the monthly national holiday was held along with the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ day of every month. The darye for rising up and the birthday darye were held on May $12^{th}$ and October $26^{th}$ of the lunar calendar, being the anniversaries of the death and the birth of Princess Bokon, respectively. The birthday darye and the darye for New Year's Day, Hansik ($105^{th}$ day after winter solstice), Dano ($5^{th}$ day of the $5^{th}$ month of the lunar calendar), and Thanksgiving "Chuseok" were held in the palace and at the burial site of the Princess. During the darye for rising up in May and the Thanksgiving darye at the burial site in August, rituals offering meals to the deceased were also performed. The birthday darye at the burial site of Princess Bokon featured the most extensive range of foods offered, with a total of 33 dishes. Foods ranging 13~25 dishes were offered at the national holiday darye, while the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ of the month included 9~11 food preparations, making them more simplified with respect to the composition of foods offered at the ceremony, in comparison to the national holiday darye. The dishes were composed of ddeok, jogwa, silgea, hwachae, foods such as tang, jeok, jjim, hoe, and sikhae, and grain-based foods such as myeon, mandu, and juk. Foods offered at the burial site darye included 12~13 dishes comprising ban, tang, jochi, namul, chimchae, and jang. Meals offered at the darye had a composition similar to that of the daily royal table (sura). Darye recorded in the Jemuljeongnyechaek displayed characteristics of the seasonal foods of Korea. Jemuljeongnyechaek has detailed recordings of the materials, quantities, and prices of the materials required for preparations of the darye. It is quite certain that Jemuljeongnyechaek would have functioned as an essential reference in the process of purchasing and preparing the food materials for the darye, that were repeated quite frequently at the time.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.739-751
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• 2015

최근 6차 산업이 부각되면서 종가문화에 대한 연구가 진행되고, 종가의 권위를 상징하는 불천위제례에 대한 연구가 보고되고 있다. 불천위를 모시는 종가는 안동지역을 중심으로 봉화, 영주, 예천, 상주, 영덕, 영양 등 주로 경북 북부지역에 집중되어 있는데, 경상북도 상주에서도 불천위를 모시는 종가가 14위나 되어 이들 종가를 대상으로 불천위 진설도와 제수 실태를 현장 조사하였다. 조사기간은 2014년에서 2015년 동안 진행되었고, 소재 노수신, 월간 이석, 우복 정경세, 조당 이목수의 불천위 제례를 조사하였다. 조사내용은 불천위 제수의 진설과 제수 품목, 조리법에 국한하였고, 심층인터뷰와 더불어 문헌을 비교 검토하였다. 1. 진설의 열은 월간이 4열이고, 다른 종가에서는 5열로 진설하였다. 열에 따른 진설 품목은 5열이 실과류, 4열이 나물류, 3열이 탕류, 2열이 적, 편류 1열이 메, 갱, 면으로 구성되었다, 진설품목은 메, 갱, 면, 장, 포, 침재, 대추, 밤, 배, 감, 사과, 호두, 고사리, 도라지, 조기, 편, 쌈은 공통적이나, 적, 탕, 전, 나물류는 종가별로 차이가 있었다. 특히 탕은 우복종가가 7탕으로 가장 많고, 소재와 입재종가는 5탕, 월간은 3탕을 진설하였다. 2. 적은 월간종가가 계적, 어적, 육적을 쌓아 올려 하나의 제기에 담아 도적으로 진설하였고, 우복종가는 계적, 어적, 육적을 각각의 제기에 담아 진설하였다. 그리고 소재종가와 입재종가는 계적을 별도로 진설하고, 육적과 어적은 하나의 틀에 담아 도적으로 진설하였고, 어적을 별도로 진설하여 이중으로 진설하였다. 포는 대구포가 주로 사용되었는데, 진설의 위치가 월간종가에서는 우포(右脯)로 진설되고, 다른 종가에서는 좌포(左脯)로 진설하였다. 3. 제수품으로 생고기 사용 여부는 우복종가에서 생고등어, 입재종가에서 생조기, 소재종가에서 육회를 사용하는 정도였다. 즉, 돼지고기, 소고기, 닭고기, 조기와 같은 육어고기는 대부분 익혀 사용하였다. 그 외 대부분 제수는 무침이나 데치는 조리법을 많이 사용하였다. 갱은 미역국이 2종가, 탕국이 2종가였는데, 탕국은 탕의 식재를 삶고 남은 육수를 활용한 것이다. 특히 월간종가는 미역탕국을 갱으로 사용하였다. 4. 제수품목 중 종가에서 주문하는 음식은 유과, 약과, 본편(시루떡, 찰떡, 증편, 경단), 술이고 나머지 대부분의 제수는 당일 종가에서 준비하는 것으로 조사되었다. 불천위 제례의 음식문화는 의례적 요소가 강하다. 이러한 식문화는 종가의 권위를 상징하고, 대외적으로 표명하고자 했던 조선중기에 비교적 정착되었다. 하지만 조선후기 일제 강점기와 전쟁, 산업화 등 역사적 격동기를 함께 하면서 종가의 불천위 제례 문화가 많은 변화를 거듭하였다. 문화는 그 자체만으로 한 시대를 파악하는데 의미가 있다. 종가의 통과의례 중 핵심적 문화행위인 제례, 그 중에서도 종가의 존재와 정체성에 직결되는 불천위 제례에 대한 현장조사와 그에 대한 고증연구는 우리 문화의 정체성을 이해하는데 의미가 있다고 할 것이다.