• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권10호
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• pp.284-295
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• 2019

셀러브리티들은 한 시대의 지배적인 문화를 형성하기도 하며, 새로운 유행을 선도할 수 있는 영향력을 가진 대상이다. 서울 패션 위크에 참석하는 국내 여성 셀러브리티들은 자신만의 패션 미학을 대중들에게 노출함으로써 패션 리더로서의 이미지를 구축하기도 하며, 컬렉션을 개최하는 패션디자이너들의 브랜드 홍보 및 판매를 촉진시키는 결과를 창출한다. 본 연구는 최근 5년간 서울 컬렉션에 나타난 여성 셀러브리티들의 패션 스타일의 분석을 토대로 여성 셀러브리티들의 패션 경향을 파악하는데 목적이 있다. 내용분석에 따른 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 직선형의 스트레이트 실루엣, 무채색의 활용, 문양이나 장식이 없는 경우가 높은 비중을 차지하고 있음에 따라 셀러브리티들은 모던하면서도 미니멀한 스타일을 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 슬림 실루엣과 프린세스 실루엣, 원피스 드레스나 스커트의 착용, 부드러운 소재나 러플의 장식을 통하여 전통적인 여성미를 드러내는 페미닌 스타일을 선호하고 있었으며, 원피스 드레스에 재킷을 매치한 형태 또한 다수 나타남에 따라 남성미가 절충된 시크 페미닌 스타일로의 변화를 시도하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 박시 실루엣, 화려한 컬러들이 믹스된 멀티 컬러, 반짝이는 소재와 그래픽이나 레터링의 문양, 다수의 디테일이 높은 비중을 차지하고 있음에 따라 유행의 선도자로서의 강렬한 존재감을 드러내는 맥시멀 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.18-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative beauty of metro sexual expressed on the 21C men's fashion. in 21C, metro sexual is being accepted as an object to lead the world consumption culture, and it is said to be most appropriate to the definition as a model that can determine the most modern men. Moreover, with well being life style, it shows characteristic that expresses chic sense through fashion. The results of the study were as below. 1. In recent men's wear, sensory feminine that looks young and trendy is being presented through clothes, rather than the image of men who are strong. Therefore, by wearing splendid flower print, bold color and gorgeous accessories, men send off their attractions. 2. The recent body king syndrome gave new aesthetic value on men's body. Therefore, men's body is becoming cultural icon of metro sexual as another face that shows social status and cultural taste. 3. The men's image of metro sexual that is felt from softer skin and hair than women, and well-built body is appealing more through body conscious look. Here, men's body silhouette is being sublimated aesthetically through design with various materials such as see-through and leather etc., and this is body conscious image that can be seen only in metro sexual. Like this, metro sexual fashion sense was expressed by feminine softness sometimes, and beautiful body silhouette sometimes by expressing one's sexiness enough, being away' from conceptual masculine. Therefore, the appearance of metro sexual can be understood that men's body exposure is becoming a social virtue that expresses beauty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.103-112
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the various expressions in fashion design using logo. For this study, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, WWD, Hi Fashion, Mode et Mode, Fashion News, Collezioni were analyzed. A corporate identity consists of the logo and name owned by a company together with the rules and guidance on how these are to be used, for example in printed material such as letterheads, catalogues and reports, in advertising, marketing and promotion, and on produsts and services. Logos provide the bedrock for the development of corporate identities, for the evolution of commercial brands, and for the nurturing of corporate culture. Logo is a primary means of communicating corporate values to customers and designers. It represents an asset of incalculable value, because it has been consistently maintained and protected over the years. The logo is the cornerstone of the company‘s image and the style of a logo or products name must harmonize with the feeling of the product or brand image. Fashion designers today are using their logos in different forms of communication. It is common to see a brand’s logo proudly emblazoned the classic chic garments as well as accessories such as bags, shoes, caps. The consumer, then becomes a ‘walking ad’ for the brand.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.118-131
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to take a look at the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties to sort the actual fashion image and the ideal fashion image according to the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties, and also to find out the standards and features that divide such a classification. For this study, we used the Q method, which is valued as an effective way to assess subjectivity. This helps to objectively classify the perception the fashion images of and the response to them as well. The analyzed materials were divided into two actual fashion frames and two ideal fashion frames, and classified them into 12 fashion image types in total, that is, six actual fashion images and six ideal fashion images, and we named each type of the fashion images and analyzed the features of each fashion image type through the in-depth Q workshop in which 14 professionals participated. The results of this study are as follows: First, the actual fashion frames of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was largely divided into 'Fashion Gold Girl', the fashion frame of mainstream and 'Indi-idol', the fashion frame of subcultures, and this was further divided into six fashion image types: 'Basic Casual', 'Vintage Performer', 'Easy Chic', 'Ladies' Look', 'City Office Girl' and 'Club Mania'. Second, the ideal fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was divided into 'Urban Refinement', the fashion frame of the mainstream and 'Mismatched Style', the fashion frame of subcultures. It was also divided into six fashion image types: Power Fashion', 'Fashion Conservative', 'Semi-culture', 'Fashion Otaku', 'Sweet Darling' and 'Fashion Panic'. Third, The characteristics of the fashion images' colors are recognizable according to the type of fashion images.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.