• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.26-41
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• 2004

This study aims to compare and analyze somatotype characteristics in clothing ergonomics as well as Sasang (Oriental physical constitution type classification into 4 kinds: taeyang, taeeum, soyang, soeum) medicine. The subjects were women collegians in their 20s. As a result, a new approach was made in somatotype classification. The following are conclusions: 1. The results of body measurement of the subjects belonged to 1 in most items when they were compared with the average records of female adults in their 20s in the national standard physique report. Thus, the subjects belonged to the average somatotype. 2. According to Sasang physical constitution classification, no subjects belonged to taeyang-type. Taeeum type (28.4%), had lower-body development greatest height and even development in width, thickness and girth. Soeum-type(37.8%) had the smallest physique. Soyang-type(33.8%) showed small values in height but great values in width, thickness and girth. 3. The factor analysis revealed 5 factors of somatotype characteristics: lower body factors including body weight, upper body factors, height factors including stature, belly width factors including waist and belly, and other factors comprising ankle and head size. 4. A cluster analysis by way of factor scores resulted in 3 types: cluster 1 44.6%, biggest values, largest somatotypes; cluster 2 17.6%, average somatotypes; cluster 3 tiniest somatotypes in most items. 5. In the crosstabs analysis, taeeum-type (57.6%) appeared a lot in cluster 1, soyang-type (76.9%) appeared most in cluster 2, and soeum-type (69.9%) was mostly seen in cluster 3. To sum up, the somatotype analysis of clothing ergonomics had something to do with constitution classification suggested in Sasang medicine. For clear justification, more systematic and scientific research should be followed with even more diverse subjects in sex and age.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristic of modern Tap dance costume according to its origin and kinds. For this purpose, the study explored the review of literature focusing on the historical back ground of Tap dance and investigated into the kinds of modern tap dance and the formative feature of the tap dance costume. Costumes of leading tap dancers in representative performances and movies are analyzed. The results are summarized as follows: The kinds of current tap dance could be categorized as three types of Jazz Tap Dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap Dance, Irish tap Dance as their development origin. The Tap dance widely distributed through the U.S. Hollywood movie, The Jazz Tap Dance costume was composed of magnificent and luxurious design applying the high fashion of the 1930s and 1950s in the male and female costumes. The U.S. Blacks' tap dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap costume had a close relation with resistant blacks' culture, and showing the type of free dressing not bound by previous tap dance dress. The Irish Tap Dance originated from Irish folk dance displayed the tap dance embroidered costume using the Irish traditional pattern. This study systemized the characteristic of the tap dance costume by kind, and explored the dress revealed at the tap dance as a symbolic system to the cultural zone where the dance is made.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2010

This study aims to know the trace of Korean musical, consider musical depending on its type, arrange characteristic of musical costume and find out the developmental direction of Korean musical costume with potentials as a culture industry. For study method, the data were collected from thesis, academic journal, book and internet web-site concerning musical costume, literatures were considered and performance costume photos, which were captured via musical performance site, were analyzed. The history of Korean modern-day musical is regarded as starting with (1966) in the full scale. Although foreign musical was imitated in 1970s~1980s, it may be called the growth period of Korean musical because the period showed the commercial possibility. Since 1990s, large-scaled musical securing good work and popularity was popular. In 2000s, musical industry was abundant quantitatively and qualitatively as investment or popularity was significantly expanded. The type of Korean musical are divided to opera musical of European, Broadway musical of American and creative musical of Korean. The costumes used in opera musical of European and Broadway musical of American are borrowed from original works through license or were manufactured in Korea by referring to the costumes of original works and using similar materials or fabrics. The costumes used in creative musical of Korea are designed by either domestic or foreign designers and produced in Korea.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.140-153
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• 2009

In the 21st century called an age of culture and art beyond the information and technology, many companies are developing various art marketings. Cases of the art marketing especially utilizing Korean features among art marketings are being increased recently. It is creating new values as a characteristic based on the cultures value of Korea. This thesis examined cooperative product development focusing on collaborative trends between designers, artists and companies through research on product and art marketing using Korean features. Additionally, by studying features of culture promotional event including exhibition and contest sponsorship, advertisement and packaging and the meaning of futures art marketing were discussed. Though, to date, academic researches have not been thoroughgoing enough in this field, it is considered that cultural product commercializing cultural particularity can strengthen the national image with acknowledgement of the global value as the art marketing using Korean features can contribute to improve recognition and the national image. Based upon this study, the value of Korean features on which custom culture of Korea dwells will be able to give a help to the designer and artist for progressing collaboration with companies as well as the companies for introducing new cultural characteristic to marketing, in the future-proof point of view. Additionally, it will be able to help the government planning the policy for intensifying the national image as a reference.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.887-899
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• 2006

In this study the preference degree of a Dangcho pattern with priority given to demographic variables was examined. The results was that demographic variables have influence on the preference degree of a Dangcho pattern. The continual arrangement pattern of a stylistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s and over most prefer. The continual arrangement pattern of a realistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s and over and women in their 50s and over most prefer. The continual arrangement pattern of a geometrical type was shown as the pattern that men working on a sales, service, production position and women in their 50s most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a stylistic type was shown as the pattern that college men in their 20s, men in their 50s and women working on a sales, production, service position most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a stylistic type of a realistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s working on a sales, service, production position and college women in their 20s most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a geometrical type was shown as the pattern that most of people prefer.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.59-74
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• 2004

The Purposes of this study are to investigate consumers' causes of clothing preference and dispreference separately, and to get 'real' descriptions about that causes using an open-ended response questionnaire. The sample was composed of 81 undergraduate students. Subjects were asked to select their preferred clothing and disprefered clothing respectively among wardrobes they have and to describe the causes of that preference/dispreference. The data was collected through an open-ended response questionnaire and analyzed using content analysis. The system for content analysis was divided into the view Point of image, clothing itself, wearer's physical characteristics, wearing situation, others' response, wearer's values, wearer's consciousness, and purchase process. Image was the primary cause that raised clothing preference, and clothing itself, wearer's physical characteristic, wearing situation, others' response, wearer's consciousness, wearer's values, and purchase process followed. In audition. wearer's physical characteristic was the primary cause that raised clothing dispreference. and image, clothing itself. wearer's consciousness, wearer's values. wearing situation, purchase process, and others' response followed. Finally, the framework for the causes of clothing preference/dispreference was developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.117-127
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• 2010

In this study, hyperspace is a result of imagination created by means of facts and fiction, represents a transfer to determination and indetermination, and means an extension to an open form. In other words, hyperspace is a high dimensional space expanded to imagination through the combination of the viewpoint on facts in this dimension and fiction. When the 2D plane surface or 3D symmetry is destroyed, or when the frame is twisted or entangled, the non-Euclidean geometry is created eventually. And when the twisting leads to transmutation and the destruction of the form reaches the extreme; this in turn became the twisting like Mbius band. Likewise, the non-Euclidean geometry is co-related to the asymmetry of the Higgs mechanism. When the 'destruction of symmetry' is considered, symmetric theory and asymmetric world can be connected. The asymmetry in turn can maintain balance by arranging the uneven weights at different distances from the shaft. Moreover, at this the concept of the upper, lower, left and right, which was included in the original form, may be crumbled down. The destruction of the symmetry is essential in order to present forecast that coincides with the phenomenon of the real world. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic is expressed by asymmetry, twists, and deconstruction and its representative characteristic is ambiguity. The boundary between the front, back, upper, lower, inner and outer is unclear, and it is difficult and vague to pinpoint specific location. The design that does not clearly define or determine the direction of wearing costume is indeed the non-oriented design that can be worn without getting restricted by specific direction such as front and back. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic of hyperspace have been applied to create new shapes through the modification of the substance from traditional clothing of the eastern world to modern fashion. The way of thinking in the 'hyperspace' that used to be expressed in the costumes of the east and the west in the past became the forum for unlimited creation.