• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.101-112
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the differences of the visual image on the variations in the waist position and the width of the wide pants. The stimuli were 9 samples: 3 variations of the waist position and 3 variations of the width of hem line. The data was obtained from 56 fashion students and analyzed by using Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The visual evaluation by the waist position and the width of the wide pants is composed of 4 factors: attractiveness, physical characteristics, modesty, and personality. Among these factors, the attractiveness was the most important. 2. The high waist pants showed the most characteristic and soft under the condition that the width of the hem line was 98cm at the third stage, while the natural waist pants showed no characteristics and stiff in case the width of the hem line was 66cm at the first stage. 3. The first stage pants were simplest and modest in case the waist position was low, while the third stage pants were the most complicated and untidiest in case the waist position was natural. 4. The waist position and the width of the wide pants interacted with the physical characteristics and the modesty. 5. According to the MCA on the attractiveness and the personality, the width affected to the visual image of the wide pants than the waist position did.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.504-518
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• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.31-44
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• 2002

This study was intended to inquire into Check Pattern. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Check Pattern, the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined work. By doing so, this study attempted to Investigate the phase of the Check Pattern in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th century fashion. The result can be summarized as follows : 1. Mondrim's neo-plasticism has not only had a great influence on Op Art and Minimalism work but is deeply related to fashion and textile design. Mondrian used vertical and horizontal line ad the dualistic element. 2. The checker is estimated to have been used since the Etruian times, though uncertain. and largely divided into the Madras check and Scotland Check. Though the origin of the tartan representation of the Scotland check can not be accurately found out, it began to emerge in around the 13th century. 3. Check Pattern has began to be widely used with the development of the textile industry since 1826 and been used in every typical Sihoutto appearing in each era up to the present. And Check Pattern is used most designer in the world, who represent their own personality in their works. This study could find out that the checker is the element of Infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the chocker will be presented by many korean designer though the overall and systematic study of the checker.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.47-63
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• 2005

The study with the subjects at 200 adult males in Busan in their 20s had a purpose at analyzing lateral body shapes to develop men's educational dress forms. The following are the conclusions: 1. Comparison at the Body Dimensions at Busan Male Adults in Their 20s and the 5th Survey at Korean Body Measurement In the comparison at the Busan and national body dimensions by way at Mollison's relative deviation, all compared items were under the deviation of 0.7. Therefore, the sample of Busan male grown-ups is understood io represent the body shapes of the average Korean male adults in their 20s. 2. Results of Lateral Body Shape Classification From factor analysis, seven factors were produced to explain 75.45% of all variables. Those 7 factors to compose lateral body shapes were hip prominence, back-neck sides, upper body's front-back depth, lateral upper body depth, hip-waist depth, front chest-waist depth, and hip and waist height. Cluster analysis revealed four characteristic lateral body shapes. Type 1 with the appearance rate of 11.70%, named D, had the greatest upper chest angle and tanterior neck lower angle. The front side was more developed. Type 2 with 33.51%, named I, was generally long and slender. Type 3 with 24.47%, named d, had the biggest depth differences in hip-chest as well as more prominent back hip. Type 4 with 30.32%, named q, had the biggest dorsal upper angle and the tiniest chest upper angle as the back area was a little bent.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.