• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.136-154
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• 2021

'Slow fashion' has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.31-40
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to identify the body type characteristics of fashion models by comparing body dimensions and body types of fashion models with ordinary women in their 20s in Korea. To that end, the study selected 71 people, with 28 being female university students in the Seoul area and 43 professional fashion models. One hundred and fifty-seven ordinary woman were selected who ranged from 20 to 29 years old, and 588 women from the 7th Size Korea fit for research purposes. Body measurement items were selected for the direct measurement data for Size Korea, which included 20 items of body size and 10 items of calculation needed for clothing production. The results of the study were as follows. According to the analysis of fashion models and ordinary woman in their 20s, their body size showed significant differences in 25 out of 30 items. The five items that do not show significant differences are bust point-bust point, waist back length, front interscye length, hip circumference-bust circumference, and neck point to bust point to waistline-waist front length. If you integrate the results, the fashion model is much taller than the ordinary woman, has a longer lower body, and has an 8.05 head figure. Also, the fashion model found itself to be the ideal type that ordinary women prefer because of the slimmer waist and bent shape, which is more than that measured in normal women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.74-90
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• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

This study suggests method of expression of nail art utilizing Salvador Dali's Paranoiac Critical Method and produced the actual works based on discussions on Salvador Dali's painting, Paranoiac Critical Method, Nail Art's artistry and technique of expression. The result of the study is as follows: 1) Characteristic of Dali's painting is a Paranoiac Critical Method. If suggesting this characteristic in a method of expression of nail art, a good work which can be expressed on a small space, a nail, representing Dali is selected and 5 tips which are very similar to the rate of the painting are used in order to obtain an aesthetic effect just like a painting. And after composing on tips using the whole paining or part of painting, actual techniques of expression such as Hand Painting, Protranse or Water Decal are used. 2) the result of nail art produced utilizing Dali's Paranoiac Critical Method is as follows. Most of all, for nail art I with the topic of "The Persistence of Memory" (1931), after giving changes to 5 tips for the watch which is a part of the painting, Hand Painting technique is used using Acrylic Painting with colors which are similar colors to the painting. Then for nail art II which adopted "Slave Market with Invisible Bust of Voltaire" (1940), the whole painting is divided into 5 tips and Protranse technique which attaches printed paper onto nails was used. Lastly, for nail art III with the subject of "The Enigma of Desire My Mother, My Mother, My Mother" (1929), Water Decal which is emphasizing the parts of the painting and composing on 5 tips and copying printed picture onto Water Transfer Paper in order to attach on the nails is used. These nail arts show aesthetic characteristics such as fantasy, unconsciousness, grotesque, infinity, non-realism and horror just like paintings.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.19-37
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• 2012

This study was done to define the color range, images and color characteristics of beige in fashion by analyzing the characteristics of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. In reference research, the general characteristics, the color name and range of beige was examined. In investigation research, color characteristics and images of beige that appear in contemporary fashion was defined, and it was discovered that the cases that the use of beige took more than 50% of the entire in the major collection from S/S season in 2007 to F/W season in 2010 as the subject of color analysis. The result of the study could be summarized as follows: First, the color range of beige consisted of the standard color from 2.5YR to 5YR, and color tone was pale and light gray. Second, the analysis of color beige that appear in contemporary fashion didn't show big differences according to year, season, and region. The color tones consisted of light grayish, pale, light, soft focusing colors from 5YR to 10YR. As for the arrangement of colors, it was arranged with black and it was used with the affiliation of YR, R, Y in many cases. Third, beige monochromatic image appeared soft, plain and classic. The arrangement of the image, modern, feminine, luxurious, gentle, intelligent five types were derived. Arrangements with achromatic colors were expressed in contemporary and sophisticated styles and arrangements with chromatic colors appeared to be soft, feminine and luxurious. This study draws the result to apply the fashion image of beige that was insufficient in other various color researches to design various color aspects by defining the image of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. Based on practical analysis for the color beige, it is evident that beige is an important factor and a powerful influence on fashion images.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2001

The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.