• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to compare knitwear design preferences and purchase behaviors of university students by sex. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Gongju provinces. The research method was a survey and measurement instruments were 16 stimuli which were manipulated of knitwear shape and self-administrated questionnaire (knitwear design preference items, knitwear favorite image items, purchase behavior items and subject' demographic attributions). Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, t-test, Cronbach' ${\alpha}$ using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, as for pullover designs according to pullover shape factors, male preferred classic design with normal round neck, set-in sleeves and normal length, whereas female preferred various designs with normal round, normal V or deep V neck, set-in sleeves and normal or long length. Second, there was significant difference by sex in knitwear patterns and materials. Male preferred geometric patterns and 100% cotton, whereas female preferred natural patterns and blended cotton. Third, 4 factors were emerged on knitwear favorite images(casual image, modem classic image, active image and characteristic image). Especially, there was significant difference by sex in active image. Male preferred active image, whereas female did not. Fourth, as for knitwear purchases, male considered fitting as important purchase criteria, whereas female considered design or style. Male used department stores for purchasing, whereas female used Bosejeom for independent fashion. Male preferred high quality knitwear to female.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.129-139
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• 2001

Picasso had deep concern at the designs of theatre costumes as well as art. The art of Picasso influenced deeply to the fashion designs in those days. In these study, to analyze the creative theatre costumes of Parade affected by Picasso's cubism, we investigate the documentary records, photos, and sketches of Picasso. The design of theatre costumes in Parade was able to be divided by two categories, general theatre costumes and experimental theatre costumes. The first characteristic of general theatre costumes is that the designs of theatre costumes in Parade were influence by the early stages of Picasso's art. The costumes of the Chinese Conjurer influenced by the Red Era of Plcasso's art and those of the Little American Girl and the Acrobats influenced by the Blue Era of Picasso art may belong to the category of general theatre costumes. The second characteristic of general theatre costumes is the fact that the images of heavenly bodies were used in the costume of the Chinese Conjure and the Acrobats. The characteristic of experimental theatre costumes is the fact that the cubism is introduced to the designs of theatre costumes in Parade. The experimental theatre costumes were presented in the costumes of the Three Managers which were newly created under the influence of Picasso's cubism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.29-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking the characteristics and the conceptual meanings of colors found in the majority’s culture. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone, the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done. The result of this investigation is that the colors of the costume in the Korean basic culture are white, gray and black of achromatic color and yellow, yellowish red and purplish blue. This confirms that the colors based on Five-elements color are becoming the basis too basic culture. And Arche-pattern, which is a characteristic commonly found in the Korean traditional society, was shown as a characteristic of color. The colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture are uniquely adopted by the Korean civilians according to their religious and philosophical living standard. This study is meaningful in seeking a root for the formation of their unique color culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.147-154
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• 2006

In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.405-413
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• 2021

In this study, based on the theory of use and satisfaction, the motives of consumers who use Instagram accounts for luxury fashion brands were classified and the effect of the flow state experienced according to the motives on the purchase intention and the enjoyment was empirically studied. As a result of the analysis, the conclusions obtained through this study can be summarized as follows. First, it was found that the motive for using Instagram, a luxury fashion brand, had a significant positive effect on flow, followed by social interaction motive, informational motive, and enjoyment motive. Among the motivations for use, it was confirmed that the motivation for social interaction had the greatest influence on flow. Second, when using the luxury fashion brand Instagram account, the state of consumer flow induces positive emotions such as pleasure, which has a positive effect on purchase intention. Third, age, which is a characteristic of luxury fashion brand Instagram account users, had a significant positive moderating effect on the relationship between informational motives and flow, and had a significant negative effect with playful motives. Through the results of this study, we contributed to the flow of previous related studies by empirically showing the dynamics of consumer psychology related to the use of luxury Instagram accounts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1001-1007
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• 2014

We surveyed the wearing characteristics of hip protectors. The problems of existing hip protectors were identified and the directions for improvement were presented. The evaluation of wearing characteristics was conducted on the 100 elderly women (60 to 85 years) with 5 types of hip protector. The questionnaire was composed of history and characteristics on falling, hip protector acceptance, preference, use characteristics and improvement requirements. The result of wearing characteristic evaluation indicated that 52% of the subject experienced falling in winter. Incidents resulting from falling occurred: outdoors (74.5%), bathroom (10.9%), and kitchen (5.5%). Body parts to be protected were in several areas: 35.6% for lumbar, 26.9% for hip joint, and 15% for hip bone. Participants prefer a belt B type design at a rate of 56.9% because it provided a sense of stability by clinging to the body and upholding the waist. Belt B type was the most appropriate in terms of fit, allowance, mobility, and design except pad thickness. To reduce the risk of hip fracture, hip protector needs to be designed in consideration of user's type of fall and body shape. The pattern and size of a hip protector has to be improved in regards to the amount of discomfort. An objective evaluation is needed for the ergonomic design of a hip protector based on and analysis of 3D body image of the elderly and the shock-absorbing quality of pad.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.