• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.85-97
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• 1990

This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(가예반차도) in the Ka-rae-do-gam­eui-gue (가예도감의궤), how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(륙예) : Nap-che (납채) , Nap-gyng(납징), Go-gi(고기), Chaik-bi(책비), Chin-young(친영), and Dong-roe(동뢰). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (호위복식) and the Ceremonial arms costume (의장복식). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (양관-조복) and Samo -Danryeong(사모-단령) with Huygpai(흉배) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun- Hongeui (홍건-홍의), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos$\cdot$Deogrei (흑건-창옷$\cdot$더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do (순종순종비가례반차도). Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.75-85
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• 1990

The dress and personal adorments of Chi Li in Li Chi was investigated in this study. The summary of this study is as follows: It was found that the ancient Chinese used their dress and personal adornments as an important means of maintaining or establishing harmony with the universe, supernaturals, and human beings. It also appeared that dress was used to control man's psychology and to maintain social order. Differentiation of person's social status and position was made by using dress and personal adornments. Ceremonial costume such as mourning appeared considerably in Chi Li.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.85-106
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• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.405-418
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate changes in the rental Hanbok market and consumer during the past 10 years. This study was done by analyzing internet news about rental Hanbok and in-depth interview. The results provide basic data that can be used to understand the rental Hanbok market. Results showed the followings: First, the rental Hanbok market has expanded and consists of two types of rental Hanbok; ceremonial and experiential. The experiential Hanbok is new but a big part in rental Hanbok market. It is not existed until 2007 but it accounted for more than 60% of internet news about rental Hanbok in 2016. Second, there is a significant difference in consumer behavior between the two types of rental Hanbok. Ceremonial Hanbok showed consistent consumer behavior between 2006 and 2016. Consumer want to get benefits such as TPO(occasion suitability), economy, exhibition, trendy and exceptionality through renting Hanbok. On the other hand, experiential Hanbok, consumers are motivated by having unique, conformity and sharing memories. Based on these results, different sets of information reveal the unique features of the two types of rental Hanbok. And also needed to develop new designs and marketing strategies for them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.19-32
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Dan dynasty has been 10-parts dancer and musician group for courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 2. Except ceremonial dance and music common dance and musics performed it in front of common peaples meetings. 3. After unification of Dang dynasty many commercial men and artist come frome western of China threfore influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume without concern of that one's social position. 4. As the people who lived in thewest areas of old china there characterestics of the costumes are open breast jacked breast laped long skirt long scarf long boots narrow sleeve jackets patterend textilles(for womens) round neck narrow sleeved one-pies dress belt, long boots. patterend textiles(for mens). 5. Dancer's Costumes mode are as follows: 1) For females : high hair style, Twin 'high hair style. jewrery decorated hat bird's hair decorated cap. ribons. 2) For mens: Bok-doo. Hokongdu 6. Except traditional old china dancer dress they have many interested dancer dress for instance dang dynasty's 'Ye-sang woo yui dnace' dancer dress is very elegant and interested hip level jacket has peacoak wing shaped sleeves and long skirt has try angles shape attached apron this dancer dress begins wi-jin nam·book-dynasty. 7. Men dancer dress is just head cap bok doo long narrow sleeved one-pies dress.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.32-49
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• 2008

The Torajan people who started to receive increased attention from the 1990 are one of the many ethnic groups of Indonesia. This paper intends to examine Torajan Ceremonies practied today in the modern world, driven by the Torajan people's age-old perspective of life and death (and the world after) that comes from their background on traditional lifestyle and (animated) folk religion/belief. It focuses on the ceremonial Dances, which is one of the most important element in Torajan Ceremonies, and gain deeper insight through its costumes and ornaments which traditionally revealed the social status of hosts and performers. In ceremony, the most important division is the classification of ritual into Aluk rampe matallo(life facing ritual ) and Aluk rampe matampu? death ritual). So Traditional Toraja dances may be classified into two genres: life related ritual dances and death ritual dances. Especially the funeral ceremonies in Toraja has been rather more famous on its spectacle aspect to outsiders however its relationships to the broader theme of Torajan Ceremonies and ceremonial dances are very less known and sources on this topic are also very scarce. Fortunately, I was able to witness one of such an ritual event. I did see one kind of the funeral rituals which is the most dramatic and symbolically rich performances in Toraja. Here, a brief account of its will highlight some dimension of ceremony, personfood, and potency in Torajan thought and action.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.125-155
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• 1995

This research has been studied the influence of Song Dynasty mode upon clothes and ornaments of Korea Dynasty by Seo Gung's (徐競) 『SunWhaBongSa KoryoDoKyung』(宣和奉使高麗圖經) and in Korea Dynasty period, by Buddhist picture. The clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, fewer variations and quiter colours thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Their clothings were no more luxurious than the clothing of Dang Dynasty. We had read that when Seo Gung visited Korea for month, and then it is in Emperor Injong's reign(A.D. 1123). Korea women's clothes and ornaments were followed by Song dynasty's clothing pattern as much as the took notice of Korea women's clothing. Korea DoKyung showed Song women's clothing that whal clothing that whal clothing (華衣), Yuansam(圖經) were Korea women's a ceremonial dress and so, Koryo women's clothing were very influenced by Song's mode. The conclusion of the research are as follows found out that Korea women's a ceremonial dresses were similar to Song's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.5-25
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• 2001

Jade, which is a kind of stone, with its transparent body, lustrous and bright character, But jade is not the only fair stone. There are three kinds of jade objects 1) tallies used in the court. 2) ceremonial jades. 3) ordinary jade for decoration, for inlaid work and for burial. Among the ceremonial jade, the most important were the "liu jui" and "liu ch′i." The former was supposed to be held by people in the court as symbols of their authority : 1) "then-kuei(鎭圭)" for the emperor. 2) "hang-kuei(恒圭)" for a duke, 3) "hsin-kuei(信圭)" a marquis. 4) "kung-kuei(躬圭)" for an earl, these "kuei" were alike in shape, but differed in size. 4) "ku-pi(穀璧)" for a viscount. 5) "p′u-pi(蒲璧)" for a baron, "pi(璧)" differed in decoration but were alike in shape. "Liu ch′i(六器)" were ceremonial objects used by the emperor in worshipping Heaven, Earth, and the Four Directions : "ts′ang-pi(倉璧)," greenish jade disk, used in worthipping Heaven "huang-tsung(黃琮)," yellow jade cylinder, used in worshipping Earth ; "cuing-kuei,(靑圭)" blue jade tablet. used in worshipping the East : "chih-chang(赤璋)," red jade tablet, used in worshipping the South : "hsuan-huang(玄璜)," black crescent, used in worshipping the North. Five kinds of tallies were "chen-kuei(鎭圭)," "yenkuei(琰圭)," "yuan-kuei(玩圭)," "ku-kuei(穀圭)." They were used to console people during disaster, to subjugate an official who had committed a crime, to reward a prize to an official for his merit or good conduct, to arbitrate disputes between high officials, to marry princess. and to dispatch troops. Since the west wei(西魏), Kuei and Hole were made of Ivory, wood and bamboo, who had ivory for fifth grade and wood and bamboo for under sixth grade. After Eastern Chou, all officials beginning to had kuei hole. symbol of Authority. and his wives. After Dang dynasty, Japan is the same. In korea. After king Bupheung in ancient and South(unification) Silla, North Kingdom Bohai, Koryo, and Chosen dynasty had ceremonial jade, Kuei and Hole.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.95-109
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• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.275-286
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of costume and its ornaments which are appeared in the traditional wedding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav, that is consisted of Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian from the 19 to the early of 20C. In this study, many different procedures of wedding ceremony with a various kind of wedding costumes are shown. A wedding custom of Eastern Slav had been developed by a intermixed style of the Christianism and a paganism. The wedding custom is organized by the 3 sequential procedures; before a wedding, a wedding, after a wedding Their wedding means the union of the bride into the bridegrooms family in order to establish a new family. Therefore, the wedding costumes have been developed according to this, and the head gears have developed as a symbol which presents the meaning. A brides costume is composed of a head gear, \"Lubaha\", and \"Sarafan\" or a skirt. A bridegrooms one is made up of \"Lubaha\", and trousers. These costumes are kept through their whole life, and are worn in every important ceremonial period. Even though, the wedding customs and the wedding costumes of Russia, Belarus, and Ukrain have been developed by their general commonness, there are regionally certain differences. It is one of the important research object of the Eurasian era in the view point of culture and ethnographic, that to know the symbolism appeared in the traditional weeding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav.ding costumes of Eastern Slav.