• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권2호
• /
• pp.218-229
• /
• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권5호
• /
• pp.748-755
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using charcoal as colorants. Particle size of charcoal, dyeability(K/S), SEM morphology of dyed fabrics and color fastness were also investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was 1.44 ${\mu}m$. According to various conditions, the dyeing effects of 1% chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabrics using charcoal were the highest with 10%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 120minutes and non-treatment of cotton fabrics were the highest with 15%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of 1% chitosan treatment of cotton fabrics on the natural dyeing using charcoal was higher than non-treatment of cotton fabrics. It was observed the surfaces of cotton fabrics treated with chitosan were adsorbed with charcoal powders of particle size more than a non-treated chitosan fabric by SEM. The cotton fabrics were dyed with blackish gray color by charcoal gradually according to treating chitosan. The K/S value, that is indicative of dye affinity, became higher as the increase of treated chitosan concentration. The color fastness of charcoal, washing and light fastness was excellent as 4-5 grade.

• 한국미생물생명공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국미생물생명공학회 2005년도 2005 Annual Meeting & International Symposium
• /
• pp.245-247
• /
• 2005

A cellulolytic fungus isolated from Agave plantation in northeastern Thailand was identified as Acrophialophora nainiana. The fungus was capable of growing at pH between 3 - 7 and 25 - 45 $^{\circ}C$, with the optimum conditions at pH 5.0 and 40 $^{\circ}C$. The wild isolate produced cellulases, comprising of exoglucanase (0.019 U/mg protein), endoglucanase (0.366 U/mg protein), and ${\beta}$-glucosidase (0.001 U/mg protein). Mutations with UV and NTG produced the UV 10-2 mutant with cellulases activities including exoglucanase (0.093 U/mg protein), endoglucanase (0.585 U/mg protein), and ${\beta}$-glucosidase (0.013 U/mg protein). Purification of the enzymes with ultrafiltration, ammonium sulfate precipitation, and ion-exchange chromatography yielded the maximal cellulase specific activities of 2.736 U/mg protein (exoglucanase), 0.235 U/mg protein (endoglucanase), and 0.008 U/mg protein (${\beta}$-glucosidase). The mutant's cellulases were the most active at pH 5.0 and 60 $^{\circ}C$. Ion-exchange chromatography revealed that A. nainiana UV 10-2 cellulases were comprised of two peaks with one peak showing the single endoglucanase activity while the other peak showed a mixture of the three enzyme activities. Production of A. nainiana UV 10-2 cellulases using banana leaf stalk as the sole carbon source gave comparable yields to that of the pure ${\alpha}$-cellulose. The enzymes were used in the simultaneous saccharification and fermentation (SSF) of plant residue (Coix aquatica) along with Kluveromyces marxianus to produce ethanol. Moreover, when the enzymes were used in the bioscouring process of fabric, the desiravle traits of textile processing including immediate water absorbency, increased in whiteness and reduction of yellowness of the treated fabric were observed.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권8호
• /
• pp.1315-1322
• /
• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제9권3호
• /
• pp.42-49
• /
• 1997

In order to study the dyeability of reactive dyes fixable at neutral pH, three reactive dyes(DYE-NC, DYE-PC, and DYE-LC) were prepared by the reaction of Cibacron Brilliant Red 3B-A with nicotinic acid, pyridine, and lutidine, respectively. FT-IR and UV/Vis spectrophometry were used to identify the dyes prepared. While the maximum absorption wavelength (&{\lambda}_{max}&) of Cibacron Brilliant Red 3B-A was 515nm, the &{\lambda}_{max}& of DYE-NC, DYE-PC, and DYE-LC were 522nm, 525nm, and 536nm, respectively. The &{\lambda}_{max}& was shifted to the longer wavelength by introducing the electron donating groups to the pyridine ring of Cibacron Brilliant Red 3B-A. All of the reactive dyes synthesized showed good exhaustion and fixation property to cotton fabric at higher temperature and neutral pH condition. It was regarded that the quaternary pyridinium ion functionated as the leaving group instead of the chloride ion. Among them, DYE-NC showed the best dyeability at the above condition. It was considered that the electron withdrawing carboxylic acid group in nicotinic acid enhanced the cationic property of nitrogn in pyridine ring, resulting the good reactivity with OH group in cellulose.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제30권1호
• /
• pp.20-28
• /
• 2018

The near infrared ray camouflage fabric has a near infrared ray reluctance similar to the surrounding environment and has a camouflage effect on the surrounding environment. Synthetic fibers used in military uniforms are difficult to have gastrointestinal function as general commercial dyes, unlike cellulose fibers, which use some commercial vat dyes to impart infrared gastrointestinal function. In this study, we optimized the adsorption pH, temperature and time for NIR dye application for polyester fabrics, and established the optimum concentration for the evaluation of adsorption build-up characteristics. In addition, it is difficult to adsorb it since the polyester material has a dense crystal structure and the NIR dye is bulky. Therefore, a swelling agent used for dyeing meta-aramid fibers with high Tg and high crystallinity was introduced as a separate preparation to increase the affinity to polyester, which is a hydrophobic fiber, to thereby obtain an excellent adsorption rate. As a result of comparing before and after using swelling agent, the adsorption rate difference was 10 times or more when compared with before.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.395-398
• /
• 2003

In this study, we measured the antibacterial activities, deodorization, UV cut ability, whiteness and SEM, according to the size($5{\mu}m$, $15{\mu}m$) of $TiO_2$, concentration(3%, 5%, 10%) and dipping temperature($50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$) with using anatase type of $TiO_2$ photocatalyst. Photocatalyst is the substance which carries out functions, such as decomposition, removal, deodorization, antibacterial, etc. of a contaminant, in a place with light based on an oxidation-reduction reaction. The results of this study were as follow. Antibacterial activities are increased with increasing of the $TiO_2$'s concentration, and $TiO_2$ has high antibacterial activities for Staphylococcus aureus but it has low antibacterial activities for Klebsiella pneumoniae. The deodorization and UV cut ability is very good, therefore be able to get good effects with using only 3% of $TiO_2$. Every effects are increased by using small size of $TiO_2$ and high dipping temperature.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.39-45
• /
• 1984

The effects of Temperature on the removal of triglyceride were studied with soaps having various chain lengths of alkyl group. Cellophane, polyester film and alkali-treated polyester film were soiled with tripalmitin, tagged with 0" and detergency was evaluated by analysing the tripalmitine on the fabric before and after washing by means of liquid scintillation counting. The results were as following: 1) Triglyceride was completely removed from cellophane in distilled water without surfactant at any temperature, because of the hydrophillic nature of cellulose. The detergency of triglyceride from polyester film fully depended on the state of tripalmitin. The detergency of alkali treated polyester film was better than that of untreated polyester film at lower temperature due to increased hydrophillcity, but worse at higher temperature due to the diffusion of molten tripalmitin into the grooves, formed by alkali treatment. 2) The detergency from polyester film was increased with elevating temperature and after reaching some optimum detergencies, the detergencies were rather decreased with increasing temperature. The temperatures of optimum detergency were shifted to higher with increasing chain length of alkyl group. 3) When the soiled film was baked at $60^{\circ}C$ and $70^{\circ}C$ for 20 min, the detergency vs. temperature was much the same as the case of without-baking. These results indicate that the detergency of triglyceride was largely correlated with the suspending power of surfactants at low temperature and with state of soil and hydrophilicity of substrates with elevating temperature.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권3호
• /
• pp.377-384
• /
• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.851-862
• /
• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.