• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.29-45
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.51-63
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.144-154
• /
• 2011

Polygoum tinctoria dye is the one using the method of reducing dyeing, and so is made by the mechanism different from natural dye in general, and the reproductive dye is more difficult because it varies in accordance with manufacturing method and days being manufactured in case of natural indigo dye that has been used traditionally. In addition, overall analysis is short of color changes in accordance with natural dyeing condition and barely none of the research for cellulose system such as cotton in particular. Accordingly, this study tries to research on the natural dyeing method optimal for color development that is desirable in designing and development of natural dyeing as comparing and contemplating the change of dyeing quality and color in accordance with reduction temperature and time, reductant quantity, dyeing temperature and time, NaOH quantity, and dyeing repetition times in order to expand dyeing methods and use variously polygoum tinctoria by improving traditional dyeing methods as well as to establish exact dyeing method of cotton which is a fabric of cellulose system in order to make such polygoum tinctoria quantificated and reproductive. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Reducing temperature is $50^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of the reducing agent is $3g/{\ell}$. Reducing time is 30minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is $1g/{\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Propulsion Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.21-27
• /
• 2019

Cellulose-based carbon fabrics are used in aerospace nozzles have low thermal conductivity and high ablation resistance. However, there is a disadvantage in that the weight is reduced by 70~90% in the pyrolysis process and graphitization process and the residual rate is low when the final carbon fabric is produced. In this study, phosphoric acid as a phosphorus flame retardant and Citric acid as a cross-linking agent were treated on the lyocell fabrics. After that the functional groups were identified and thermal properties were confirmed by FT-IR, XRD and TGA. The yields of the final carbon fabrics were also compared through the pyrolysis and graphitization process. The graphitized yield increased to 8.1% with increasing citric acid to 16 wt% added.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.73-79
• /
• 2003

It is generally known that cotton treated with liquid ammonia has better soft handle, wrinkle recoveries and stability of appearance as compared with the alkali mercerized cotton. In this study, the various cotton fabrics treated with liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$, sodium hydroxide(NaOH) and sodium hydroxide(NaOH)/liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$ and untreated cotton fabric were investigated and compared in terms of physical properties and dyeing behavior. As the result, the strength of four kinds of cotton fabrics were similar. But the elongation of cotton treated with liquid ammonia increased slightly. Liquid ammonia treatment reduced the crystallinity of cotton and the crystalline structure of cotton transformed from cellulose 1 to mixed structure of celluloseIand III. In dyeing, dyeing rate decreased but equilibrium dye uptake increased by liquid ammonia treatment of cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.58-67
• /
• 1997

PTCA(1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) and BTCA(1,2,3-butanetetracarboxylic acid) are selected as new nonformaldehyde agents for ester crosslinking of cotton cellulose to replace the traditional DMDHEU reagent. A goal of this research is to propose unknown ester mechanism of cotton cellulose by PTCA or BTCA using crystal structure model suggested by Meyer and Takahashi. In pursuit of these goals, we have treated 100% cotton broad cloth with PTCA or BTCA and different catalysts. They were used with $NaH_2PO_2,\;NaH_2PO_4,\;Na_2HPO_4,\;NaH_2PO_2,\;Na_3PO_4,$ catalysts to produce nonformaldehyde fabric finishes. Treatments were applied to all cotton fabrics using a pad-dry -cure process. The esterfication of cotton treated with BTCA or PTCA was investigated using Fourier transform infrared(FT-IR) spectra and the breaking strength, abrasion retention and discoloration properties were determined to prove the durable finished fabrics. Patterns with respect to abrasion resistance were more complex. Because PTCA and BTCA add-ons were comparable, the data suggest that the more effective catalysts, $NaH_2PO_2$ and mixed phosphate $NaH_2PO_2/NaH_2PO_4$) are effecting either a great number of crosslinks in the cotton or producing crosslinks that differ in actual structure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.201-209
• /
• 2011

With a new method of applying chitosan and alginate onto cellulose, multi-coated cotton fabrics with chitosan and alginate were prepared and characterized. To coat cotton with chitosan, raw cotton was dipped in chitosan solution, mangled of 1kgf/$cm^2$, neutralized in 2 wt% NaOH soluton, washed, and dried at $60^{\circ}C$ oven. The chitosan-coated fiber was dipped in sodium alginate solution, 1kgf/$cm^2$ mangled, neutralized in 2 wt% $CaCl_2$ solution, washed, and dried at $60^{\circ}C$ oven, resulting in CCAC(coated cotton with chitosan and calcium alginate skin) fiber characteristics. Excellent absorbancy of distilled water and saline solution was observed by the absorption test on cotton fabric treated with CCAC(0.5 wt% calcium alginate) and 0.5 wt% calcium alginate respectively. The SEM photograph confirmed the uniform coating on the cotton fabric surface.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.8-17
• /
• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of turmeric was studied. In this study, the colorants of turmeric were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics was dyed with aqueous extract of turmeric and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(turmeric) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably became increased when the crosslinked chitosan concentration was higher. Dyeability of turmeric was improved on chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabric rather than only cotton fabric, while the saturated dyeing time was 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The hue value indicated greenish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was almost the same.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.737-742
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is restoration for tearing strength of the durable press (DP) finished 100% cotton fabric by enzymatic treatment. Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU) was used as a DP finish chemical. Enzymes (cellulase, pectinase, protease, lipolase) were selected based on their specific reaction activities. Ideal application of the enzymes for this work was to remove cross-links created by DMDHEU on the surface of the fibers to offer migration property between microstructures of cellulose, yet cross-links that exist inside of the fibers are still remained to impart effect of wrinkle resistance. Physical characteristics (tearing strength, wrinkle recovery, FT-IR) of enzyme treated samples were measured and compared. It was found out that, in case of enzyme treatment, most of enzymes didn't have a great effect on tearing strength, but, in case of Protease, tearing strength increased at DMDHEU 2% treatment. As a result of an experiment on wrinkle recovery of the textiles treated with enzyme making density of DMDHEU different whenever respective experiment was made, it was discovered that density of DMDHEU increased as wrinkle recovery increased and, in the relation to enzyme treatment especially in Lipase enzyme treatment, the lesser density of DMDHEU, the more wrinkle recovery increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.