• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.6 s.96
• /
• pp.159-171
• /
• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.72-92
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review relationship between various expression method in modern make-up and the tendency of Neo-Avantgarde. In this paper, the author classified the distinctive characters in Neo-Avantagarde with Historicism, Decadence, Humor, and Inhumanism and explained innovation and creatio which is manifested in the late 1990\`s make-up by studying Neo-Avantgarde tendency expressed in modern make-up. The results are as follows. 1. The Historicism in modern make-up is expressed in Japanese Kabuki Make-up, Chinese Pecking Opera make-up, and Primitive mask Make-up in Africa. 2. The Decadence is manifested in Tattoo make-up which is expressing fetishism and fin-de-냗칟 image, and Snobism Make-up which is expressing selg-ostentation and eroticism with artificial nail and eyelash. 3. The humor appears to the Character Make-up copying the characters in doll plays, animation and juvenile story. In addition it is showed in Kitsch Make-up, which has vulagr, rustic and childish image by wearing so diffusive and cheap ornaments. 4. The Inhumanism is appeared in Graphic Make-up which is in the pursuit of the visual happiness. It includes simple geometrical type, drawing and coloring. It is also showed in Vampire Make-up, which means the make-up style mading horro, hizarrerie, and mistery by primary color(black and red) make-up. As the above, Neo-Avantgarde can account for the diversity and pluralism of contemporary make-up.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.65-74
• /
• 2008

Religion is deeply connected with human culture and life, and affects all areas of religious people's lives. The aim of this study was to find out how fashion-conservativeness of religious people and non-religious people differ in Korea. Ten religious people and ten atheists all in their twenties were interviewed to find out the differences between religious people and non-religious people related to their viewpoints on clothes. The twenties age group was selected because people in their twenties are sensitive to fashions and styles, and a fair proportion of males and females were selected. The subjects were asked demographic questions, questions about their religion and faith, whether or not they thought they were conservative or affected by religion, and finally, what they thought of photographs of certain styles. 12 photographs from the 2006-7 F/W collections of London, Paris, New York and Milan were presented to the subjects. The photographs were from the Vogue U.K. website and divided into 6 major styles based on verbal evidence used to describe the collections in catwalk reports: "Sexy," "attitude/confidence," "luxury," "sophisticated/chic," "feminine," and "rock." In conclusion, religious people were found to be more conservative than non-religious people in their twenties because they prefer more conservative and covered up styles, have more negative views of bold and skin-showing trends, and regard some styles to be too sexy when non-religious people do not.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 2011.02a
• /
• pp.71-71
• /
• 2011

캣워크는 현수교의 주케이블을 가설을 위해 일시적으로 설치하는 공중작업발판으로 주케이블 가설장비와 작업원 등의 하중을 지지한다. 캣워크는 유연한 구조물로서 풍하중에 상당한 변형이 발생한다. 하지만, 국내외를 막론하고 캣워크의 내풍안정성에 대한 연구는 별로 이루어지지 않았다. 거기에 더하여 캣워크에 작용하는 정적 공기력에 대한 정보도 부족하며, 현재 캣워크 단면에 대한 적절한 풍하중을 산정하지 못하고 경험적인 설계가 이루어지고 있다. 따라서 캣워크의 효율적인 내풍설계를 위하여 풍동실험을 통한 충실률과 공기력계수와의 관계를 알아보는 것이 필요하다. 이를 위하여 축척 1/4인 모형을 사용한 풍동실험을 통하여 메쉬망의 크기를 변화시키면서 충실률에 따른 공기력계수를 측정하고 설계식을 제안하고자 한다. 캣워크는 로프와 아울러 가는 철망으로 아래와 양 옆이 막혀 있다. 즉 바람을 직접 받는 부분인 철망은 가는 원형단면으로 구성되어 있다. 원형 단면의 경우에 레이놀즈 수에 따라 항력계수가 크게 변하는 것으로 알려져 있다. 그러나 가는 원형 단면으로 둘러싸인 캣워크의 항력계수에 레이놀즈 수가 미치는 영향에 대해서는 연구된 바가 없다. 본 연구에서는 캣워크의 공기력계수에 미치는 레이놀즈 수에 대한 영향을 파악하고자 1/4모형과 1/14모형을 제작하여 최대풍속 30m/s까지 변화시켜가면서 공기력계수를 측정하였다. 이때 레이놀즈 수는 최대 20배까지 차이가 나므로 만약 공기력계수가 레이놀즈 수의 영향을 받는다면 확실히 그 영향을 파악할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 풍동실험을 통해 충실률과 공기력계수와의 관계과 레이놀즈 수의 영향을 살펴보았으며, 정적공기력 계수의 설계식을 제안하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 얻은 결과를 정리하면 다음과 같다. 1. 축척 1/14 및 1/4 모형을 사용하여 다양한 풍속에서 공기력계수를 측정한 결과, 캣워크에 작용하는 정적 공기력계수는 레이놀즈 수의 영향을 받지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 향후 새로운 형식의 캣워크에 대한 풍동실험을 수행할 경우에 축척에 상관없이 풍동실험 결과를 사용할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다. 2. 풍동실험 결과, 캣워크에 작용하는 정적 공기력계수 중 항력계수와 피칭모멘트계수는 측면 충실률에 따라 달라지고, 영각에 대한 양력계수의 기울기는 하부 충실률의 영향을 받는 것으로 나타났다. 그리고 주케이블이 캣워크 내부에 위치하고 있어도 캣워크의 정적 공기력계수에는 큰 영향을 미치지 않은 것으로 측정되었다. 이를 정리하여 캣워크 충실률에 따른 정적 공기력계수의 추정식을 제안하였다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.215-231
• /
• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.