• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.65-88
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• 2022

With the expansion of the Russian Empire southward in the nineteenth century, connoisseurs, art historians, and scholars in Russia began to pay attention to carpet traditions in the new territories of the Russian Empire in Turkestan. In journals and other specialty publications, they underscored a need to establish claims to authority over the knowledge of the traditional craft. They were highly attuned to parallel accounts of carpet weaving from regions that had a longer history of research and collecting of carpets. In contrast to the situation in Western Europe or the United States, commentators bemoaned the fact that the public and even professed experts in Russia did not properly appreciate carpets from the Caucasus and Central Asia. These scholars articulated a need to establish authority over the carpet weaving traditions of Russia's colonial possessions, resulting in a push toward a serious study of carpet weaving as a legitimate field of inquiry. This paper uses published sources on early carpet scholarship from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to examine how carpet weaving traditions in Central Asia entered an imperial discourse of knowledge. It argues that attempts to understand and categorize carpet weaving as an art form occurred along two fronts. Intellectuals and scholars attempted to wrest control over the locus of knowledge from experts in the West as well as from local weavers. In the process, they established a distinctly imperial vision of carpet weaving in contrast to competing imperial discourses and over traditional forms of knowledge.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-24
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• 2023

The art of carpet weaving is the most habitual form of traditional art in Azerbaijan, it reflects a rich inner world and occupies a special place in the history of a national culture's development. The Azerbaijani carpet has always stood out for its plots, ornaments, compositions, and high quality and the Azerbaijani people, faithful to their spiritual values, have protected and developed it throughout the centuries. In this article, several Ganja-Gazakh-type carpets from the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum collection and their artistic and technical characteristics are discussed. Specimens of material, sacred language, and ornamentation are considered. The deepest meaning is embodied in tamga in particular. Tamga is a unique phenomenon serving as an amulet, lineage sign, and self-identification of Turkic peoples. The Gazakh carpets of the Ganja-Gazakh type cover the Gazakh region of Azerbaijan, the Borchali region of Georgia, and the Goycha Lake region of Armenia. Karapapakh Azerbaijani Turks have inhabited these areas since ancient times. Tarakama (nomads) are often equated with the name Karapapakh (black hat). One of the densely populated regions of Tarakama is Gazakh. Gazakh, Garagoyunlu, Salahli, Shikhli, Kamarli, Damirchilar, Gaymagli, Goycali, Daghkasaman, Oysuzlu, Gachagan, and pile carpets with different compositions are woven in the Gazakh carpet weaving center. Large, simple in form, step-shaped or hook-like medallions, horn-shaped patterns, animal images, and stamps with symbols of ancient Turkic tribes characterize the Gazakh carpet weaving group.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2023

Interaction between sedentary and nomadic cultural traditions has played an important role in the centuries-old history of applied arts in Uzbekistan. By the late 19th and early 20th century, driven by urbanization in the region and the gradual transition of nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples to sedentary lifestyles, many industries and traditional cultural forms of formerly nomadic ethnic groups disappeared. Nevertheless, their role in shaping the national cultural identity of the Uzbek people is great. This is true in relation to one of the largest ethnic groups in Uzbekistan, the Kungrats, whose applied art represents a unique, viable, and yet little-studied phenomenon in the national culture of Uzbekistan. The article reviews carpet weaving, one of their surviving crafts, exemplified by qiz-gilam, a unique type of rug made using a combined technique. This study helps to show the nature of historical and cultural interrelations in the carpet weaving of Central Asian peoples and their cultural contacts with the carpet art of neighboring regions more widely and objectively. An important theoretical result of this study is the creation of criteria and tools for identifying qiz-gilam carpets. This allows us to bring clarity to the yet undeveloped system of their identification in museum and gallery practice.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.322-325
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• 2016

Background: Musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs) are a common problem among carpet weavers. This study was undertaken to introduce affecting personal and occupational factors in developing the number of MSDs among carpet weavers. Methods: A cross-sectional study was performed among 862 weavers in seven towns with regard to workhouse location in urban or rural regions. Data were collected by using questionnaires that contain personal, workplace, and information tools and the modified Nordic MSDs questionnaire. Statistical analysis was performed by applying Poisson and negative binomial mixed models using a full Bayesian hierarchical approach. The deviance information criterion was used for comparison between models and model selection. Results: The majority of weavers (72%) were female and carpet weaving was the main job of 85.2% of workers. The negative binomial mixed model with lowest deviance information criterion was selected as the best model. The criteria showed the convergence of chains. Based on 95% Bayesian credible interval, the main job and weaving type variables statistically affected the number of MSDs, but variables age, sex, weaving comb, work experience, and carpet weaving looms were not significant. Conclusion: According to the results of this study, it can be concluded that occupational factors are associated with the number of MSDs developing among carpet weavers. Thus, using standard tools and decreasing hours of work per day can reduce frequency of MSDs among carpet weavers.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.31-54
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• 2023

The article deals with issues related to the tradition of carpet production on the territory of Kazakhstan where, for the most part, tribes engaged in nomadic livestock raising lived. Analyzing the technological component of this traditional craft, the author focuses on the main factor that influenced carpet weaving along with arts and crafts-the nomadic method of production of the Kazakhs. The study of the ideological component that accompanies the process of making various types of carpets allows us to conclude that it has a sacred meaning and subordination to myth, rite, and ritual. At the mythmaking level, the process of making carpets, like any other activity among nomads, personified the process of creating the world, the marriage of Kok-Tengri (Heaven) and Zher-Su (Earth), and the creation of the Cosmos from Chaos. The process of carpet weaving, as well as the process of making felt, symbolized the act of creation, the marriage of Heaven and Earth, and male and female principles. The study of various types of ornaments that Kazakhs and their ancestors used to decorate carpets allows us to conclude that the ornament applied to carpet products was the bearer of the most valuable information about the mythological worldview of the people. Carpets in their structure reproduced the structure of the Universe, which has a binary, ternary, and quaternary system. The ornament has turned into a kind of coded text, reflecting ideas about the cosmogonic structure of the Universe and an awareness of the harmony of the world. The location of Kazakhstan on the northern routes of the Sogdian Road (Great Silk Road) allowed the spread of various ideas, due to which carpet weaving was influenced by other peoples in technical and stylistic design.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.120-127
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• 2015

Background: Musculoskeletal pain (MSP) is a common and disabling problem among carpet weavers and is linked to physical and psychosocial factors of work. This study aimed to determine the prevalence of MSP, its psychosocial risk factors, and association of pain in each pair of anatomical sites among carpet weavers. Methods: A cross-sectional study was performed among 546 hand-woven carpet weavers in rural small-scale workshops of Iran. Data were collected by using parts of a standardized CUPID (Cultural and Psychosocial Influences on Disability) questionnaire focused on MSP in 10 body sites, including the low-back, neck, both right and left shoulders, elbows, wrists/hands, individual, physical and psychosocial risk factors. Statistical analysis was performed applying logistic regression models. Results: Prevalence of MSP in at least one body sitewas 51.7% over the past month. The most common sites were low back and right shoulder pain 27.4% and 20.1%, respectively. A significant difference was found between the mean number of painful anatomical sites and the level of education, age, physical loading at work, time pressure, lack of support, and job dissatisfaction. In pairwise comparisons, strongest association was found between pain in each bilateral anatomical site (odds ratio = 11.6-35.3; p < 0.001). Conclusion: In home-based workshops of carpet weaving, psychosocial factors and physical loading were associated with MSP. This finding is consistent with studies conducted among other jobs. Considering the preventive programs, the same amount of attention should be paid to psychosocial risk factors and physical loading. Also, further longitudinal studies are needed to investigate the relationship of psychological factors.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.139-145
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• 2005

The paper reports the physical and mechanical properties of hand-woven carpets, which have been put under static force. Two groups of wool fibres, from two parts of Iran, were prepared to spin pile yams for the carpets. Each group of the fibres included both conventional and tanned wool. Then two yam counts, $N_m$ = 4/2 and 6/2, were spun for two different knot densities. After weaving the carpets, they were put under static force and their thickness variations were measured and plotted against time, in logarithm scale. The resiliency of the carpets piles after eliminating the static force, were measured and plotted against time, in logarithm scale, too. The results were compared to each other and analysed with respect to parameters such as the type and quality of the wool fibres as well as knot density of the carpets.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.163-174
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• 2001

월리엄 모리스(1834-1896)는 19세기 영국의 지식인중에서도 가장 다재다능한 사람이었다. 그의 사후 백년이 지났지만, 화가 디자이너, 제조업자, 상회경영자, 시인, 작가, 출판인, 인쇄업자, 수집가, 교사, 자원보호론자, 사회운동가, 환경보호론자 둥으로 활약했던 그의 삶과 일은 아직도 전세계에 영향을 미치고 있다. 모리스는 오늘날 그의 매력적인 컬러풀한 패턴으로 가장 잘 알려져 있다. 1861년 모리스는 모리스 마샬 포크너상회(1875년부터 모리스상회)를 설립하여, 스테인드 글라스를 비롯한 타피스트리, 카펫, 프린트물, 직물 둥을 생산해 냈는데, 그러한 디자인은 영국 디자인의 향방에 큰 지침을 주었다. 모리스의 초기의 텍스타일 디자인은 비전문가로서 자신의 필요에 의한 자수작업이었으나, 곧 상업적인 기초를 갖고 텍스타일 제품을 생산해내기 시작한다. 모리스는 제작을 적절히 콘트롤하기 위해서 다양한 텍스타일의 테크닉을 배웠는데, 처음에는 염색, 블록 프린팅, 수직 자카드 둥을 배웠고, 나중에는 카펫과 타피스트리까지 배웠다. 이러한 비상한 제작에 대한 직접적인 참여는, 모리스와 당시의 다른 디자이너들과의 차이점이었고, 그의 성공에도 크게 기석하게 된다. 모리스의 텍스타일 디자인은 자수, 염색, 직물, 카펫 타피스트리 둥의 작품으로 상업적으로 생산되어 널리 상찬을 받았고, 오늘날에도 복제되고 있다. 이것은 그의 디자인이 시대를 초월한 질과 테크닉으로 존중되고 있기 때문이며, 또한, 그의 패턴의 세부에서도 볼 수 있는 자연에 대한 사랑의 중요성 때문이다.