• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.648-665
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• 2002

This study is to analysis on movie costume including the personal characters, social influences and situational effects of the main heroines among the expressions of clothing through the movie, "Gone with the Wind" produced by the MGM Company in America in 1939 with the collapse of the social classes through the American Civil War as its setting. The range of this study is to look into the images of cinema costumes like the colors and silhouette related to the roles based on the movie. According to this study, first, we can see the changing process from crinoline to bustle styles by historical invastigations into clothing styles rather than the images of roles in the aspect of silhouette Scarlet of hanghty and challenging character is shawn in X-type silhouette mainly using capped sleeves and laces and Mellany of obedient and generous character, compared with Scarlet, is showing less detail effects, and is expressed in A-type silhouette of modesty and maturity. Second, there are remarkable differences of colors and details in which starlet who had the pioneer spirit used the vivid tones like red, green and black, and white laces and blades as an accent while Mellany who was considerate and soft used the dark tones like black and blue, and white and blue lace shawls And third, in images, Scarlet who was very positive in sociai activities is expressed as a elegance and romantic images in the sophisticated and modern styles but Mellany who was a good and steady housewife was shown as a elegance image in the mannish styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.140-153
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to develop new wedding dress designs by blending the traditional female Korean upper garment of Han-bok, known as dang-ui, with Western-style wedding dress designs. For this research, the author considered the various types of wedding dresses and their historical development based on literary resources and previous studies of the subject. The results are as follows: first, this study featured the use of different types of fabric for the dang-ui, selected from the various fabrics available for wedding dresses. Starting from the basic design of a sleeveless and strapless princess-line tight top, three different styles of A-line dresses were created: a tiered long dress, an unbalanced tiered midi dress, and a spangled and pleated mini dress. The study also resulted in a tight H-line mini dress with a bustle. In this way, the author was able to suggest new wedding dress styles that are well suited to the cultural trend of the Korean wave. Second, the traditional Korean dang-ui is an elegant ceremonial garment that harmonizes well with Western-style wedding dresses. Satisfaction can be found from combining these creative fusion gowns with traditional Korean aesthetics. Third, the traditional Korean ceremonial coronet jokduri and veil, which go well with dang-ui wedding dresses, are suitable accessories for contemporary wedding dresses. The dang-ui wedding dress, a result of merging the Korean dang-ui and the Western style, will help enhance business for both the Korean and the international wedding industry thanks to an aesthetic that has global appeal.

• Child Health Nursing Research
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.97-104
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• 1998

Burns in children result in the loss of precious life, or if the child survives, in much suffering from physical, emotional, social, and economic problems. These burn accidents to children happen in the bustle of family life and frequently without any warning. With this background information, this study was designed to identity types of burns in children and mothers' attitudes towards, and knowledge of burn prevention, in order, to not only, in still a safety consciousness regarding the seriousness of burn accidents and the strengthening prevention, but also as basic data towards the development of an educational program aimed at prevention. From May 1 to May 25 in 1997, data were collected from the mothers of children attending five day care centers and kindergartens located in Seoul, which had been selected for the study. The tools used for the study, which were developed by the researchers, surveyed the type of burns suffered by children, mothers' knowledge of burns and attitudes toward burn accidents. The data were analyzed through real numbers percentages and analysis was done using SPSS computer programs. The results of the study show that the most frequent type of burn accidents were those caused by hot water(55.4%) and these were frequently related to everyday habits that easily lead to danger. Further, the first aid treatment following a burn was weak. The majority of the mothers had not instructed their children on who to contact in the case of a fire, first aid for burns, or how to take escape in the case of a fire. This left the children in a defenseless position in case of a fire. The mothers showed a lack knowledge, on what to do when a blaze is discovered, how to put out a fire, first aid for burns, escaping from a fire and appropriate water temperature, in that 50% of the time they answered incorrectly. From this study a prevention program, HIPP (Home Injury Prevention Program) could be developed that includes fire prevention habits and first aid for burns. This program can be used with kindergarten and elementary school children for group education on fire prevention and can be used as a foundation for construction of a system of facilities and equipment to prevent fires and also prevent injury from fires.