• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2002

Among various numerical methods of wave transformations including wave breaking by structure, models using VOF(Volume Of Fluid) method to trace free surface are getting into the spotlight recently. In order to analyze wave transformations and velocity of the wave fields due to the permeable submerged breakwater(PSB), This study applied VOF method to the two-dimensional wave channel installed line-source to generate waves and added dissipation zone to offer a non-reflective boundary. Hydraulic experiments was performed to obtain the application of two-dimensional numerical wave channel. The results of numerical experiments using the two-dimensional wave channel agree well with the experimental data. It was shown that vortices are formed behind the PSB, and in case of the 2-rowed PSB they also are occurred in between PSBs, strongly non-linear waves are developed on the crown of the PSB, and the direction of velocities in porous media is determined by the shape of free surface.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.531-552
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• 2020

In the previous study, both the wave characteristics at the tip of composite breakwater and on caisson were investigated by applying olaFlow numerical model of three-dimensional regular waves. In this paper, the same numerical model and layout/shape of composite breakwater as applied the previous study under the action of one directional irregular waves were used to analyze two and three-dimensional spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, the frequency spectrum, mean significant wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis were studied. In conclusion, the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure in three-dimensional analysis condition. Which was not occurred by two-dimensional analysis. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the wave pressure distribution at the caisson changes along the length of breakwater when the same significant incident wave was applied to the caisson. Although there is difference in magnitude, but its variation shows the similar tendency with the case of previous study.

• Atmosphere
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.463-470
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• 2007

This study aims to assess the impact of the hot summer weather on daily mortality in Busan. Daily total all-caused mortality in the entire population in Busan has been examined during 1991-2005. The daily deaths were standardized to account for the long-term trend in mortality and their seasonal and weekly cycles. We found the net increase (about 8.2%) of excess deaths during the extraordinary heat wave period in July of 1994. It corresponds to the excess deaths of 109.5 during the month. The abnormality of temperature extremes in July of 1994 and their impacts on human health were also investigated. Unusual heat wave appeared in the first ten days in July of 1994. The excess deaths are likely to be attributable to the record-breaking heat waves. The result suggests that unusual early heat waves would be dangerous, even for inhabitants who live in an acclimated region to the heat waves such as Busan.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.38-45
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• 2000

A breaking-wave caused by a cylinder moving under the free-surface is studied, which is designed to unveil the interaction between breaker and cylinder using PIV at CWC. The detailed structures of the vortical flow is obtained from the velocity field measured by PIV technique. The vorticity distribution behind the breaker and originated from the breaker. It has been obvious that the vortices from breaker greatly affect the whole wake field at S/D=1. Certainly PIV was confirmed to be a very versatile means to investigate the complex flow fields such as breaking wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.22-28
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• 2003

In rough seas, bow-flare regions of the full ships (tanker and bulk carrier) are subiect to high impact pressures due to the on-coming breaking waves. And many ships suffer structural damages in that region, even though they were built under the bow structure strengthening rules of the ship classes. So, a new design method for bow-flare structure is highly required. In this paper, a new prediction method of the bow-flare impact pressure (in terms of equivalent static pressure) acting on the full ships' bow is presented. This method is based on the 6 full ships' damage analysis and the breaking wave impact mechanism. Calculation results of the bow-flare impact pressure and the shell plate thickness are shown and discussed. Through the example calculations, it was found that the present method is useful for the structure design of the full ships' bow.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

This study is to investigate the dynamic pressure caused by breaking waves on a recurved offshore structure. A physical modelling was performed in a two-dimensional wave flume. The measuments from the physical modelling were compared with several known equations. The shock and secondary pressures were found to be dependent on water depth, breaking wave height and the size of the air pocket. The maximum pressure was recorded near the still water level and the secondary pressures near the recurved the recurved structure were found to be less than those experienced in a vertical offshore structure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.