• Title/Summary/Keyword: breaking waves

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Numerical Simulation of Fully Nonlinear Free-Surface Flow around Seawall with Slope (경사면을 갖는 월파형 구조물 주위의 비선형성 자유표면류의 수치 시뮬레이션)

  • Park, Jong-Chun;Park, Dong-In;Lee, Sang-Beom;Hong, Gi-Yong;Sun, Sung-Bu
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.18-24
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    • 2005
  • Wave overtopping is one of the most important processes for the design of seawalls. The term "wave overtopping" is used here to refer to the processes where waves hit a sloping structure run up the slope and, if the crest level of the slope is lower than the highest run up level, overtop the structure. Wave overtopping is dependent on the processes associated with breaking wave. A numerical model based on Navier-Stokes equation and the Marker-density function for predicting wave overtopping of coastal structures is developed in this paper. In order to evaluate the present model, two simulations are tested. One is overflow without waves at vertical seawall, and the other is wave overtopping at sloping seawalls.

An Investigation of Synoptic Condition for Clear-Air Turbulence (CAT) Events Occurred over South Korea (한국에서 발생한 청천난류 사례에서 나타나는 종관규모 대기상태에 대한 연구)

  • Min, Jae-Sik;Chun, Hye-Yeong;Kim, Jung-Hoon
    • Atmosphere
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.69-83
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    • 2011
  • The synoptic condition of clear-air turbulence (CAT) events occurred over South Korea is investigated, using the Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS) data obtained from the Korea Meteorological Agency (KMA) and pilot reports (PIREPs) collected by Korea Aviation Meteorological Agency (KAMA) from 1 Dec. 2003 to 30 Nov. 2008. Throughout the years, strong subtropical jet stream exists over the South Korea, and the CAT events frequently occur in the upper-level frontal zone and subtropical jet stream regions where strong vertical wind shears locate. The probability of the moderate or greater (MOG)-level turbulence occurrence is higher in wintertime than in summertime, and high probability region is shifted northward across the jet stream in wintertime. We categorize the CAT events into three types according to their generation mechanisms: i) upper-level front and jet stream, ii) anticyclonically sheared and curved flows, and iii) breaking of mountain waves. Among 240 MOG-level CAT events reported during 2003-2008, 103 cases are related to jet stream while 73 cases and 25 cases are related to the anticyclonic shear flow and breaking of mountain wave, respectively.

Variation of Beach Processes and Harbor Sedimentation in an Area of Large Tide (조석이 큰 해역에서의 해안과정과 항만퇴적의 변화)

  • 신승호;이중우
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.57-74
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    • 2001
  • In the past, the predictions of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were mainly relied on the hydraulic model tests and empirical methods. In recent years, however, as computers have come into wide use, more accurate models have gradually been developed and thus replaced those conventional methods. For prediction of topographical change near the coastal area, we need informations of wave and current conditions in the numerical model which should be calculated in advance. Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the new layout of the harbor and planned south breakwater for preventing intrusion of sand. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

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Construction of a System for the Generation and Analysis of Design Waves using the Genetic Algorithms (유전자 알고리즘을 이용한 설계파 생성 및 해석 시스템 구축)

  • Jeong, Seong-Jae;Shin, Jong-Keun;Choi, Jin
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.43 no.1 s.145
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    • pp.96-102
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    • 2006
  • In this study, an optimization routine with genetic algorithms is coupled for the selection of free variables for the production of a control signal for the motion of wave board in the numerical wave tank. An excitation function for the controlling of the wave board is formulated on basis of amplitude modulation for the generation of nonlinear wave packets. The found variables by the optimization serve for the determination of wave board motion both with the computation and with the experiment. The breaking criterion of the water waves is implemented as boundary condition for the optimization procedure. With the analysis of the time registration on the local position in the wave tank the optimization routine is accomplished until the given design wave with defined surface elevation is found. Water surface elevation and associated fields of velocity and pressure are numerically computed.

A hydrodynamic model of nearshore waves and wave-induced currents

  • Sief, Ahmed Khaled;Kuroiwa, Masamitsu;Abualtayef, Mazen;Mase, Hajime;Matsubara, Yuhei
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.216-224
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    • 2011
  • In This study develops a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of wave driven coastal currents with accounting the effects of the wave-current interaction and the surface rollers. In the wave model, the current effects on wave breaking and energy dissipation are taken into account as well as the wave diffraction effect. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations by Dally and Brown (1995) and Larson and Kraus (2002). Furthermore, the quasi-three dimensional model, which based on Navier-Stokes equations, was modified in association with the surface roller effect, and solved using frictional step method. The model was validated by data sets obtained during experiments on the Large Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) basin and the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). Then, a model test against detached breakwater was carried out to investigate the performance of the model around coastal structures. Finally, the model was applied to Akasaki port to verify the hydrodynamics around coastal structures. Good agreements between computations and measurements were obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves and currents in nearshore and surf zone.

Numerical investigation of solitary wave interaction with a row of vertical slotted piles on a sloping beach

  • Jiang, Changbo;Liu, Xiaojian;Yao, Yu;Deng, Bin
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.530-541
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    • 2019
  • To improve our current understanding of tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with a row of vertical slotted piles on a sloping beach, a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ was developed in this study. The Navier-Stokes equations were employed to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combining with an improved VOF method to track the free surface and a LES model to resolve the turbulence. The numerical model was firstly validated by our laboratory measurements of wave, flow and dynamic pressure around both a row of piles and a single pile on a slope subjected to solitary waves. Subsequently, a series of numerical experiments were conducted to analyze the breaking wave force in view of varying incident wave heights, offshore water depths, spaces between adjacent piles and beach slopes. Finally, a slamming coefficient was discussed to account for the breaking wave force impacting on the piles.

Numerical simulations of two-dimensional floating breakwaters in regular waves using fixed cartesian grid

  • Jeong, Kwang-Leol;Lee, Young-Gill
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.206-218
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    • 2014
  • The wave attenuation by floating breakwaters in high amplitude waves, which can lead to wave overtopping and breaking, is examined by numerical simulations. The governing equations, the Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation, are calculated in a fixed Cartesian grid system. The body boundaries are defined by the line segment connecting the points where the grid line and body surface meet. No-slip and divergence free conditions are satisfied at the body boundary cell. The nonlinear waves near the moving body is defined using the modified marker-density method. To verify the present numerical method, vortex induced vibration on an elastically mounted cylinder and free roll decay are numerically simulated and the results are compared with those reported in the literature. Using the present numerical method, the wave attenuations by three kinds of floating breakwaters are simulated numerically in a regular wave to compare the performance.

An experimental study on mechanism for the disintegration of liquid film surface waves by a parallel air flow (평행공기류에 의한 액막류 표면파의 분열기구에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • 이규영;양옥용
    • Journal of the korean Society of Automotive Engineers
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    • v.14 no.6
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    • pp.81-90
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    • 1992
  • This paper deals with an experimental study on the initial condition of liquid film surface waves disintegration and investigation on the behavior of liquid film surface waves formed by the high speed air flow on the solid plane surface. The authors conducted the qualitative and quantitative study to in vestigate the liquid film flow phenomena, the liquid film disintegration mechanism, and droplet formation process with breaking the liquid film surface wave. The newly devised transparent rectangular test section which has semi-two-dimensional flow at the center of the bottom was introduced to perform the experimental study, and it can generate the uniform thickness liquid film at the bottom. The strobo streak camera was used to obtain the instantaneously transformed photographs. The electronic measuring device was also used to measure the liquid film thickness variation in order to perform the easy and effective analysis of complex flow phenomena in the air-water cocurrent flow.

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Finite Difference Simulation of Two-dimensional Waves Generated by Numerical Wavemaker (수치조파기에 의해 생성되는 2차원 파도의 유한차분 시뮬레이션)

  • Lee, Young-Gill;Kim, Kang-Sin
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.198-203
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    • 2003
  • Unsteady two-dimensional nonlinear waves which are generated by the numerical wavemaker of plunging type are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Marker-density function method is adopted for the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, and the computations are carried out with various wave amplitudes and two section shapes of wavemaker. The computation results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results, and the agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

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An Experimental Study on Wave Focusing Efficiency in the Generation of Directional Extreme Waves (파랑집중에 의한 다방향 극한파 생성의 효율성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • 홍기용;류슈쉐;양찬규
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2002
  • Extreme waves are generated in a model basin based on directional wave focusing. The targeted wave field is described by double summation method and it is applied to serpent-type wavemaker system. The extreme crest amplitude at a designed location is obtained by syncronizing the phases and focusing the directions of wave components. Two distinguished spectrums of constant wave amplitude and constant wave steepness are adapted to describe the frequency distribution of component waves. The surface profile of generated wave packets is measured by wave guage array and the effects of dominant spectral parameters governing extreme wave characteristics are investigated. It is found that frequency bandwidth, center frequency, shape of frequency spectrum and directional range play a significant role in the wave focusing. In particular, the directional effect significantly enhances the wave focusing efficiency.