• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.646-660
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• 2017

This study provides basic data to develop a brassiere pattern that can cover the big breast of breast enlargement patients. In this study, we also showed areas of the brassiere cup pattern and the body surface of the breast on a breast enlargement patient. The results of the study are as follows. Correlation analysis was obtained between volume and body surface area and breast detail dimensions. After the correction process, we proposed a research bra pattern for breast augmentation patients. The cup-boundary in bra patterns of breast enlargement surgery patients is longer than the bra patterns of the general breast; therefore, the height of the inner and outer edges of the upper cups is higher. Also, it is necessary to set the new breast upper point when measuring the upper length in patients with breast augmentation surgery because the points of circumference of the breast are marked higher than chest circumference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.72-86
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• 2008

This research focused on determining the brassiere preference index and wearing status of chinese ladies in their 20's living in the Shanghai region of China, to help Korean lingerie companies in their development of bras to successfully advance into the Chinese lingerie market. The main research tool of this research was various different surveys, and the results of the surveys were evaluated using the SPSS 12.0 for Window program. The results of the survey can be summarized as: 1) consciousness and satisfaction level of the body. The satisfaction level of the brest was proportionate to the size of the brassiere, thus, people showed higher level of satisfaction for cone-shaped, semi-circular shaped, prominent-shaped(exposing), lifted-shaped brest over flat-shaped brest. Concerning the relationship between the shape of the brest and the age of the customers, people under 22 years of age preferred flat-shaped, and those between 23-24 years of age preferring exposing and lifted brest, thus as females mature and get older, the size of their brest increases, thus having preference on more circular and lifted-shaped brest and bras. 2) Status of bra wearing in China When we look at the size of the bra in relation to the shape of the brest, those classified as having 'flat-shaped' brest showed a high proportion of A-cups, ranging from 75A, 70A and 80A, where as those of 'cone-shaped' brest represented high ration of B-cups, ranging from 75B, 75A and 80B. Majority of those classified as having 'semi-circular shaped' and 'prominent-shaped(exposing)' brest showed a high ration in the size 80 range. And vast majority of those classified into the 'lifted-shaped' brest group, were reported of having C-cup size bras. 3) Status of Bra Purchasing As people mature, the main reason behind choosing a bra was the actual design of the bra, where they emphasized the importance of aesthetic values. People classified as having 'flat-shaped' and 'cone-shaped' brest emphasized the importance of design and beauty, while those having 'semi-circular shaped,' 'prominent-shaped(exposing),' and 'liftedshaped' brest groups emphasized the importance of hygiene and the material(fabric) of the bra. This shows that when people have relatively smaller brest, they emphasize the importance of external appearance whereas when the size of the brest increases, they pay more attention to the function of the bra rather than the external appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.598-611
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to investigate the necessary functions and areas of improvement in bras worn by patients during the initial three-month recovery period after a breast augmentation procedure, and a functional bra that fits properly was designed. In order to analyze the necessary functions, a bra was designed after relevant discussions with medical staff and patients who underwent breast augmentation surgeries and considering the advice from bra designers and clothing and textile experts. This bra was designed to protect the surgical scars and minimize the compression by inserting a nonwoven fabric into the shoulder and front parts. In addition, it was designed in a way that could fit the individual breast volume by using a mesh material partially on the upper side of the molded cups. Underwires that could support the breasts were inserted, and a detachable wire was used to suit the patient's needs and the diagnosis by the medical staff. As the bra designed in this study received excellent scores during the evaluation by research subjects and experts, it can be used for designing the prototype of a functional bra.