• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.511-518
• /
• 2009

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.599-611
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop the most appropriate garment patterns for dog. This study is analyzed the body structures and bodily movements of different types of dogs and constructed garment patterns that are appropriate for each category: the basic pattern for dogs with oval-shaped chests; and the modified pattern for the ones with barrel-shaped chests. Analyzing some of the existing patterns in the market as well as studying the size chart of one of the dog apparel manufacturers, who participated in the Fashion Week for the very first time, were undertaken in order to understand the bodily figures and movements of dogs. Furthermore, based the previous studies and relevant information available regarding some of the most popular dogs in four selected countries: (names of the selected countries), dogs were broadly categorized into three groups according to the shape of their chests: Oval, Barrel, and Flat-sided. Later, two types of pattern were created and then constructed for fitting: the basic pattern for oval-shaped chest; and the modified pattern for barrel-shaped chest. As a result, the two patterns turned out to be most suitable for pet dogs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.3_4
• /
• pp.333-342
• /
• 2003

The purpose of the study is to understand the newer and more direct design techniques, and to provide information to exert creativity in designing. The headdress, one of dress items, was selected so that the change might be investigated in designs and production methods. A headdress was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. The target period of the study was limited to Henry Ⅶ and Henry Ⅷl(1485∼l547) when gable headdress was put on. The details and the patterns of gable headdress were identified for the selected gable hood to be manufactured. It was not possible to get the same dress material, so a similar one was made as in the pictures. The same was done to the color. Putting the focus of the study on the reproduction of the figure in the portrait, some dimension were measured in bodily proportion and patterns were made by three-dimensional cutting. As results, some dimensions used in the manufacture had some limits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.1
• /
• pp.87-96
• /
• 2001

This study, dealing with obese bodily figures from the viewpoint of garment shape, was conducted with obese male children of late school ages(nine to eleven years old) to provide data for making ready-made clothing for obese children by directly measuring and analysing the bodily figure of the upper body of them. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. According to the basic statistics, for most of obese children the values of the measuring items by ages appeared to be large, and the results of comparison with the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea made in 1997 showed that the values were more large than those of standard physical conditions. 2. It was shown that in the correlation between items the upper breast circumference had a high correlation with all items, and the weight did with the following items such as circumference, height, width and thickness. 3. The results of the principal component analysis showed that six main components hand an explainable power of more than 75.60% for all materials. The first factor was thickness and obesity of the upper body, the second one the height, the third one the length of front and rear sides, the fourth one the width of neck, the fifth one the length of shoulder, and the sixth one the breast width and the wrist circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.50-65
• /
• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.4 s.113
• /
• pp.70-80
• /
• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
• /
• 2003.07c
• /
• pp.2693-2696
• /
• 2003

The national standard physique research of Korea is being conducted every 5-6 year term after its first research was started in 1979, the fourth research was conducted in 1997. The result of the national physique research was reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes, furniture. In this thesis, we measured anthropometry value for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age, bodily figure using the result of the national standard physique research. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropometry and measuring representative category. For the process for organization, we measured anthropometry which can express sports action of golf, tennis and etc effectively. We made it by Presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.

• Proceedings of the Korea Contents Association Conference
• /
• 2006.11a
• /
• pp.631-634
• /
• 2006

The national standard physique research of Korea is being conducted every 5$\sim$6 year term after its first research was started in 1979. The result of the national physique research was reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes, furniture. In this thesis, we measured anthropometry value for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age, bodily figure using the result of the national standard physique research. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropometry and measuring representative category. For the process for organization, we measured anthropometry which can express sports action of golf, tennis and etc effectively. We made it by presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.7 s.107
• /
• pp.126-141
• /
• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.59-64
• /
• 2003

The national standard anthropometry of Korea is conducted every 5∼6 year term after its first research was started in 1979, The fourth research was conducted in 1997. The result of the national standard anthropometry has been reflected in manufactured goods design of allied industries such as clothing, shoes and furniture. In this paper, we measured anthropometry data for every bodily figurative classification after dividing users according to gender, age and bodily figure using the result of the national standard anthropometry. We constructed 3D character through the process of analyzing interrelation of measured anthropomeoy and measuring representative category. In the process for organization , we measured anthropometry which can effectively express sports action of golf, tennis etc. We made it by presenting measurement which is able to form each type of 3D character after the category was decided. Quantitative and objective valuation for posture and action became possible by developing visible information offer and posture action analysis protocol in theoretical approach for analysis of posture and action in sports.