• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.552-561
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• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.249-264
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate automatic manipulating functions of dart of CAD system, and to classify the dart of women's front bodice. The results from this study: 1.3 CAD systems, were compared in automatic manipulating functions of dart. Gerber system & Investronica system were based on the pivot-method of dart manipulating, Yuka system was based on the slash-method. 2. It is classified and made a dart-design chart with using darts, which were as examples related to dart manipulating in text & reference of the pattern design. 3. In case of education of dart manipulation, the classified dart-design chart provides variations of a basic pattern through dart manipulation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

In this study, a 3D simulation program was used to produce a bodice prototype of a middle-aged male in their 40s and 50s and then analyze the appearance evaluation and airgap, sectional view, color distribution through virtual wearing to compare and analyze the differences between patterns. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for pattern development to companies that manufacture and produce clothing for middle-aged men. As a result of analyzing, J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable body shape pattern for middle-aged men. E pattern was too tight and L pattern and N pattern had too much spaces. However, J patternt was analyzed that correction was necessary in setting center back and center front length. The aging phenomenon in which the back is slightly bent forward and shoulders are also inclined is expected to appear, so it is necessary to adjust the front-to-back length, shoulder angle, and shoulder length. It is considered that after developing the research pattern by modifying J pattern, it is necessary to develop a body shape prototype for middle-aged men through actual clothing experiments on middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 2009

In this study, we tried to verify the effectiveness of 3D scans of clothed participants from 20 to 24 year old men in fit analysis process. Carrying out fit analysis, we used 3D scan data and direct fit evaluation with the basic garments made as semi-fitted bodice pattern for men. The result of fit evaluation through 3D scan data showed the expert rated fitting items more positive than direct fit evaluation. Even though, generally there was a no significant difference in the response between 3D and direct fit analysis. Only there was a significant difference in the response to the specific place such as the center front line, neckline, shoulder seam, and etc. There was a no significant difference between the result of 3D scan and direct fit evaluation in the subjects' group. Also the result of assessment of 3D targeting consumers showed very positive and interested in using 3D scans for fit analysis. The ability to rotate the 3D scans for a variety of views proved to be a very effective process to analyze fit. Moreover, digital data is easily accessed at any locations and any time. Fit analysis using 3D scans could be great tool for not only fit evaluation in research but also better fitting in apparel industry.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-84
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

In order to develop a bodice prototype suitable for obese women in their 20s, this study compared and analyzed a total of five pattern system methods, including prototype of France and Japan, one prototype for education in Korea and two prototype for industries in Korea. Through this, this study attempted to investigate the bodice pattern system suitable for the development of plus-size women's clothing. For the pattern drafting, pattern 1 was applied with the most body dimensions such as interscye fold front, interscye fold back, bust circumference, neck circumference, and waist back length, and pattern 2, pattern 4, and pattern 5 were made based on bust circumference and waist back length. As a result of the appearance evaluation, Pattern 3 was evaluated as the best pattern in all items except for the suitability of the center front length and the suitability of the side waist circumference position. However, it was evaluated as inappropriate in items such as the vertical side line, the suitability of the side waist circumference line position, the suitability of interscye fold back position and shape, and the suitability of the back shoulder dart position. Most of the pattern drafting methods are based on the size of the bust circumference, but other institutional methods are considered necessary when setting the neck circumference and shoulder length for 20s obesity women. In addition, it is also required to develop a method for setting the front center length due to abdominal protrusion.