• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2020

This study classifies black fashion-mania by each type based on their motivation for wearing black fashion as well as verifies how they express their style. To achieve the objectives of this study, the research questions are as follows. First, the images of black fashion-manias are classified. Second, each type of black fashion enthusiasts' motivations for wearing black fashion are verified. Last, black fashion-mania style are analyzed according to image types. In order to answer the research questions, a literature review and in-depth interviews (total 30 respondents (male 15, female 15) were executed. As a result, black fashion-manias use black fashion for self protection, their self-images such as charismatic professional image, modern sophisticated image, body-conscious sexy image, avant garde image which is an anti-fashion norm and unique image. The strong reason why black fashion-manias insist on black fashion is to 'look cooler'. The expressions could be articulated from sophisticated styling techniques that appear to be undecorated rather than an overt decorated styling. It is helpful information to plan black fashion products and to establish a design direction that requires an understanding of why black fashion is pursued, while promoting an understanding of groups of black fashion-mania.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.77-81
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• 2006

From the viewpoint of color perspective, black has more obvious effects to impart images than dress itself This study aims to examine black dress through the fashion history to highlight the aesthetic value of black and to make better use of black in designing. Black in fashion, particularly in the guise of the little black dress, became an indispensable feature of cosmpolitan style after World War I. Designers harnessed the power of black, drawn irresistibly to its innate qualities of drama and strength of line. For the past five hundred years, aside from the use of black for mourning as well as for religious, academic, legal and ceremonial dress, black with a greater or lesser dominance has been a fashion constant. Since then black has been an important color in fashion. How to use black in formative designs should be studied continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-14
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is for confirming the aesthetics of 'little black dress' as one of the important items in contemporary women's fashion lives. Through the work, what is the aesthetic value that women really needed can be found. This research was processed by literal material with fashion photos, fashion books and articles which were related fashion trend from 1920 to 1990. The results are as follows ; The birth period of little black dress was 1920s to 1930s. Freedom and modernity was represented by little black dress. European elegance and American smartness were expressed on this item through 1950s to 1960s. In the end of 20th century, 'little black dress' has diversity just like fashion trend. As the aesthetics characteristics of little black dress, (1) contemporary woman's identity through chic and modernity (2) strong power of passing image (3) dual values of temptation and tatoo were found. Therefore this research can be useful to extent the meaning of little black dress in fashion study and to recognize contemporary women's needs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.84-93
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyse the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism in the 20th century. Human beings started to ask themselves questions about their nature and existence by undergoing two world wars in the 20th century. Existentialism was born out of these philosophical thoughts and in particular, French existentialists led the public discourse of the time and expressed their philosophical thoughts and ideas through black fashion. Therefore we revealed the existentialistic meanings of black by studying the French existentialist ideology and their black fashion. The thoughts of existentialism became popularized in France by French philosophers. Sartre especially played a big role in the popularization of existentialism in France. The black fashion worn by existentialists became popularized along with the ideology that it expressed. Sartre's thoughts on existentialism are summarized in existence Precedes Essence, self-reliance, and engagement. From these, the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism was analogized to resistant image, nihilistic image and self-reliance image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.544-558
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• 1997

Black street style has made unique fashion in popular music such as Jazz, Soul, Rhythm Il Blues. Reggae, and Rap, and it is counterculture and subculture against white. Furthermore, the black street style has played a starring role in the development of white culture as well as black culture, which emerged in direct opposition to the dominant cultures practised by a fraction of fellow countrymen within the black diaspora. The objectives of this study are to examine the social chronology of the black street style and the contemporary fashion, and the influences of the black street style on white culture. The seeds of black's style were sown in the late forties, developing throughout the fifties with the arrival of black immigrants from the west Indies and its examples were zooties, hip cats 8l hipsters, modernists. Rude boy & two-tone was anti·fashion style in sixties and then rastafarians continued in seventies costume is used to convey an essential symbolic class and ethnic message. The latest black's street fashion is hip-hop dress, which is pluralistic and electric, and funk is also erratic. During its ten-year reign as an international style, it has undergone numerous shifts because it is decline of racism B-boy & flygirls toraggamuffins & bhangra style to acid Jazz. These have played a crucial part in influencing the gigh fashion and avant-grade fashion designers' work. Today's street fashion has characteristics of postmodern culture without a racism in global village. Moreover, pop music stars take an effect on the street style continuously. With the opening of a new century, the study of the street style will overcast popular fashion and suggest the direction of fashion design.