• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.91-91
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 아랍 중동지역 이슬람교 여성들이 착용하고 있는 베일이나 망토 형태의 전통의상(히잡(Hijab), 차도르(Chador), 아바야(Abaya) 등)에 사용되는 심색 제트블랙(Jet-Black) 소재를 개발하기 위하여, 고분자 조합에 의한 심초형 복합방사(POY 85/36) 및 열연신 복합가공사(ACY 135/72)를 개발, 심미적 심색성 및 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 Jet-Black 제품(L값 7.32)을 개발하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.36-42
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• 1998

The dyeabilities of C.I. Reactive Blue 19(B19, MW ; 626), C.I. Reactive Blue 4(B4, MW ; 637) and C.I. Reactive Black 5(B5, MW : 991) were investigated. Initial dyeing rates were increased and the amount of dye on the fabric at equilibrium was decreased with temperature like other ordinary dyeing processes. Activation entropy$(\Delta{S}^*)$ was decreased because of loose bonding between dyestuffes and fiber molecules at transition state. It can be clarified that the entire reaction is exothermic and the number of molecular species at transition state becomes greater from decrease in activation enthalpy$(\Delta{H}^*)$ and the increase in activation free energy$(\Delta{G}^*)$ with temperature, respectively. The amount of B19 on the fabric at equilibrium was greater than that of B4, because B4 became unreactive towards textile substrates through hydrolysis. Due to the biggest size of the dye molecule, the reaction rate of B5 was the slowest but its difunctional group played an important role in achieving the greatest amount of dye on the fabric at equilibrium.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.79-86
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• 1997

The microcapsule for thermochromism is based on the polymerization reaction between epoxy resin and amine curing agent. The preparation process of microcapsule is based on dissolving or dispersing a hydrophobic core materials[one-dye-black(OBD), bis-phenol A(BPA), cetyl alcohol] in an aqueous solution of gelatin, epoxy resin and isophorondiamine(IPDA) ; the gelatin and IPDA used as a dispersion stabilizer and an hardening agent, respectively. The structures of epoxy resin and microcapsule materials have been analyzed by FT-IR and UV/Vis spectra. The mean diameter and size distribution of microcapsule are 1.46~1.75${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ and 1.42, respectively. The DSC thermograms of microcapsules indicated 2 kinds of endothermic peaks at 47 and 322$^{\circ}C$. This is possibly corresponding to the melting peak of core material and wall meterial. These microcapsules are applied to the fabric by printing. Complex finished fabric showed a good wear resistance on rubbing test and the print pattern to the cotton fabric showed a reversible thermochromism ; ${\mu}_{max}$ are 580 nm below 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 276.5nm above 4$0^{\circ}C$ in ethanol/water(2/8), respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.344-352
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• 2000

Two kinds of nylon 6 fabrics with different fiber denier, such as ultramicro fiber(UMF) nonwoven fabric(monodenier 0.05d) and regular fabric(monodenier 2.92d) are dyed with C.I. Acid Red 18(leveling type) and C.I. Acid Blue 113(milling type). Dyeing rates and adsorption isotherms are measured at $60^\circ{C}$, pH 5.0 and at liquor ratio of 1 : 250. To investigate the effect of fixing agents (Matexil FA-SNX, Monorex-RD and Tinofix-ECO) on UMF nylon 6 nonwoven fabric, dyeing is carried out at 3~10% owf with 1 : 2 metal-complex acid dyes, such as Kayalax Navy R(unsulphonated type), Lanasyn Blue S-BL(monosulphonated type) and Kayakalan Black BGL(disulphonated type). The dyeing rate of UMF nylon 6 is faster than that of regular nylon 6. From the results of absorption isotherms, the regular nylon 6 has higher saturation value of Acid Red 18 compared with UMF nylon 6, whereas UMF nylon 6 has higher saturation value of the acid Blue 113. From the absorption isotherms of both acid dyes, the regular nylon 6 has higher saturation value of Acid Red 18, whereas UMF nylon 6 has higher saturation value of the acid Blue 113. The wash fastnesses of UMF nylon 6 increases in the order of metal-complek dye containing nonsulphonated group > monosulphonated group>disulphonated group. Aftertreatment of UMF nylon 6 dyed with unsulponated and monosulphonated dyes improves wash fastness upto grade 1.5, where as that of UMF nylon 6 dyes with disulphonated dye does not improve wash fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.9-18
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• 2020

In this study, we conducted alkali hydrolysis on sea-island type PET ultramicrofiber tricot fabric and dyeing according to the various conditions with black disperse dye. Herein, we evaluated the weight loss rate and tensile strength according to the NaOH contents. The optimal alkali hydrolysis treatment conditions were set to 25 %omf NaOH with a treatment time of 60 min at 110 ℃, and average weight loss rate of the PET ultramicrofiber tricot fabric is about 23 %. The dyeing conditions were investigated with different dyeing temperatures(95-135 ℃), dyeing time(20-60 min), dye contents(2-10 %omf), dispersant contents(1-9 g/ℓ), pH buffer solution contents(1-9 g/ℓ), UV-absorbent contents(5-25 %omf) and reduction cleaning process conditions for black color. We obtained the optimum conditions of the dyeing with the dye contents of 8 %omf, the dispersant contents of 1 g/ℓ, the pH buffer solution contents of 1 g/ℓ, the UV-absorbent contents of 10 %omf, the dyeing temperature of 135 ℃ and the dyeing time of 40 min. The light colorfastness of dyed ultramicrofiber PET tricot fabric was good to excellent in the range of 4 to 5.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.184-187
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• 2004

In case of a semi-forcing culture for vegetable perilla, the following research results on the effect of black polyethylene mulching, the optimum sowing season, and the seedling stand improvement method were drawn. Soil temperature was higher and the emergence was faster in a black polyethylene mulching culture than in a non-mulching culture. However, the mature was late, the main stem were larger, and the seed yield, as well as the leaf yield, was greater in a mulching culture than in a non-mulching culture. Considering growth and chilling injury, the stable sowing season of vegetable perilla was judged to be the early in January. The covering materials for improvement of the seedling stand can be a non-woven fabric and hyaline polyethylene. However, the non-woven fabric seemed to be quite suitable in view of the stability and convenience of control after the emergence of perilla.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.