• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.92-98
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• 2007

This study analyzes the women's hair style and costume in late Chosun Dynasty appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting. Conclusions are as follows; First, in case of woman costume, the Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. The trend of simplified clothes on upper body and abundant clothes on lower body appeared. In addition, as 'geodulchima' became popular, women came to of en show an erotic beauty by exposing their underwear below chima. Second, in the women's hair style appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting, a unmarried woman did the braids and a feme covert did 'Ungeon Meori' and 'Tremeori'(a swept-back hair with the chignon) regardless of status. We can imagine the women's hair styles of a higher class who imitated those of 'Kie-sangs' through the features of Kie-sangs who were illustrated by Shin yoon bok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.131-148
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• 2008

Each stylistic period through history has its own unique look. The characteristic look of each period is completed and visualized with its prevailing ideologies, aesthetic consciousness and morality by means of 'form'. A period expresses its characteristics in accordance with form according to the widespread preferences of the time. Among the various cultural factors that form the look of the time, those that the period holds as ideal aesthetic values create the concept of 'ideal beauty' for that period. This study begins by establishing the conceptual definition of 'ideal beauty' and develops the premise that dress reflected ideal beauty. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects are dresses represented in paintings, the actual garments from the Renaissance to Baroque periods and written references about art, art history, and history of costume. The results, based upon a theoretical study of the zeitgeist and aesthetic values of the 16th and 17th centuries, are as follows: first, ideal beauty influences the substance and form that constitute dress style. It is a byproduct of the spirit of time, the zeitgeist. The concept of ideal beauty is born within the lifestyle pursued by the ruling class and focuses on the body as an epitome of beauty, moral values, custom, lifestyle and taste as it becomes visualized via form. Second, the aspect of dress representing the ideal beauty of particular time varied according to the times. In both periods, power and dignity were used to achieve the ideal aesthetic values. In the Renaissance, power was expressed by the horizontal extension of dress (i.e. wide farthingales and sleeves) and in the Baroque period, by vertical extension (i.e. long and tall wigs, fontanges and trains). It can be said that fashion in both periods achieved an ideal, such as power and dignity, via the same means, by extending dress sizes, but the ways in which those ideals were portrayed in each period's dress yielded very contrary styles. It is understood through this study that ideal beauty influenced the dress style of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and played a decisive role in determining its forms and symbolic meanings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1057-1067
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• 2005

In the modem society, people try to represent and protect their traditional arts in aesthetic way along with the global society. The proposal of this thesis is about the fashion illustration that has adopted the folklike formative arts. 1 prefer the formative character rather then the universal character and I would like to use of folk paintings far the fashion illustration. Because the formative character of folk paintings is very expressional, we are able to draw a fashion illustration in easy, new, creative and less difficult way. The fashion illustration has to be a specialized field from the formative arts, and we need to study in a new way as well. We draw fashion illustration through the understanding of folk paintings and the study of analysis in formative. As a result of this study, we could draw a fashion illustration which is very abstract, exaggerative and simple. We also could expect the free hand drawing lines on this illustration. In these fashion illustrations, the human bodies let us fret the artists' tense, speed, and power. According to the important character of folk painting, which is the beauty of color, these fashion illustrations have expressed more color intensive. In the falk paintings there is a kind of rules to make color order, so the fashion illustrations that we drew have the bright and clear color combination. Because the folk paintings shouldn't be the artistic but should be the realistic, the fashion illustrations concentrate on the real subject. It is very natural looking that use the natural dyes in the fashion illustrations. According to this kind of art task, fashion illustration will be a certain part of the illustration in the modem society.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 1996

The etymological meaning of 'the Picturesque' is "after the manner of painters." It had begun to be used from the end of Classical era and become popular in Romantic era. The concept of the Picturesque in the Classical era is an allusion to the Classical paintings, history paintings or ideal landscapes. As the idea of these paintings was the Beautiful Nature, the most crucial of the Classical Picturesque were that a painting should represent some significant human action; that all the parts of this painting should contribute to the whole; that verbal commentaries were needed. The influence of the Picturesque on the garden design can be summarized as the invention of 'the Landscape Garden.' In the Landscape Garden, human action was central and formal and painterly techiniques were used to highlight human action. The subjectivization of concept of of the beauty resulted in the cult of the Picturesque. In the controversy by Price and Knight, the Picturesque and its influence on the garden design was contended variously. Price criticized the monotonous gardens of Brown's and named "roughness, sudden varitation and irregularity" as the three hallmarks of the Picturesque. Knight contended " that the Picturesque consisted only in a manner of viewing things with an eye and mind educated in the principles of painting" and "that gardens should reproduce as fully as possible the qualities that made the pictures of Rosa or Hobbema delightful."

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.140-202
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• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2008

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.195-205
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• 2013

Eco T-shirts have become a part of environmental campaigns following social trends toward eco-friendly designs. With the demand for such designs expected to grow, there has arisen a need for higher product variety. In the past, eco T-shirts were designed to convey messages about the protection of nature through the use of environmentally friendly text or images. However, in order to respond to the preferences and emotional needs of Koreans, designs should cater to their characteristics and tastes. To this end, this study used a Whan-ki Kim-inspired motif to develop an eco-friendly design tailored to Korean perspectives. It is believed that this process can not only result in a distinctive eco T-shirt design, but also make it globally competitive. With regard to research methodology, a total of 41 paintings of Whan-ki Kim were analyzed and classified into four major themes or key values expressed in modern eco-friendly fashion designs: naturalness, indigenousness, harmony between nature and man, and harmony between natural and artificial beauty. Employing a wide range of CAD techniques and varying forms, the themes were developed into 28 T-shirt designs after their forms, tones, and textures were fully explored. This study demonstrates the possibility of designing creative, aesthetic, and high value-added eco T-shirts through motif development. In addition, it successfully integrates Korean paintings in the development of T-shirt designs aimed at communicating environmentally friendly messages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of Korean Society of Rural Planning
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• v.5 no.2 s.10
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• pp.46-55
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• 1999

This paper examines the pastoral ideal and its legacy to landscape design. We have had the routine convention of experiencing natural beauty from the picture-like nature. We, who would liken a scenic view to a picture, often equate natural beauty with superficial representations of nature shown in pastoral literature and traditional landscape paintings: the lush of towering trees, the field of endless green, the soft babbling flow of the river and the crisp clear sky. It is not a portrayal of nature as it is, but in fact a conceptual expression of its ideal form. The ideological root of that natural beauty can be retraced to the pastoral ideal, so eagerly longed for by people of the western world. A pastoral landscape graciously marked with leisurely peace and subtle harmony is what we identify as beautiful nature. In fact, however, it is no more than an artificial refuge in contextual isolation from its surrounding, and a by-stander's nature seen purely through the eyes of the outsider. The tradition of pastoralism, reaching its peak in the 18th century with its English Landscape Garden style, was transplanted into the real world through the practice of landscape architecture. Landscape design in such a form is just a static means of decoration devoid of meaning and process. And we simply identify the green ornamentation with nature.