• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.41-52
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• 1999

This study is to compare and analyze two types of 'transparency' concept expressed in architecture and garment which has not only been an important theme in the post-modern expression of architeture but been shown in various types of concept. This study examined the characteristics of transparency and through theoretical studies divided them into four types; frankness(purity ambiguity comparison exposure and eroticism) Purity building would use the matrial which is transparent glasses for the expprssion of its purity and clothing would use the transparent matrial for the expression of the natural beauty of human body and the purity of human of itself. Ambiguity is expressed in the outer side of architecture by duplicating transparent materials and by phenomenon of optical illusion and inflection. On the contrary in garment it is shown in the outward formation of underclothing. Comparison in architecture is expressed by the use of void but opaque materials as well as solid but transparent materials. Extinction is expressed with the visual effect of context of the surrounding by the use of opaque glass and reflexive glass. In garment the effect of comparison is expressed by the use of mixing transparent materials and opaque materials. Building would express the inside of itself by the way of its exposure and clothing would also express its frankness through the human body is partly opened or clossed at the same thime that arises from eroticism of the way of the expression of human feelings.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

Surrealism, appeared in the beginning of the 20th century and affected almost all art fields, is one of the most representative art trends. Surrealism, not restricted from any rules and traditions but tried to produce a new appreciations in the world of dream and unconsciousness, also has affected fashion. In this paper, I have tried to find out how the surrealism has been expressed in the modern fashion, especially in Thierry Mugller's design. Thierry Mugler is one of the most famous designers who have expressed surrealism in their fashion designs. I have classified his designs and researched them by the application into the human body and the nature, by the metaphor and transformation of things, and by the metamorphosis of location and an optical illusion. It was based on Depaysement which is one of the ways in surrealistic expressions. The result of the study is followings; First, surrealism made fashion design possible to creat unlimitedly and sublimated it anew modern beauty by attempting the varieties of the fashion, not restricted from any rules and traditions. Second, surrealism made the general public to complete anew recognition and valuation about fashion by expressing the external character and the internal meaning on the clothes. Third, surrealism made people to recognize, which clothes is not simply wearing thing but also one of the art expression forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.397-407
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• 2010

This study is about the strife patterns in modern fashion and the characteristics inherent in them. The study was aimed at offering the basic materials to develop the creative design that can show various visual expression effects. In terms of method, the study was led by the analysis of documents; domestic and foreign fashion, collection magazines etc were used to analyze the strife patterns in modern fashion. According to the findings, the study used the rearrangement of the strife patterns at the same intervals, the arrangement of different strife patterns within one single item, the hybrid arrangement of strife patterns and different patterns, and the use of strife patterns for a certain part of clothing for the purse of emphasis or decoration. First, the characteristics inherent in such strife patterns showed clear simplicity using the same repetition of simple lines or the two colors of black and white. Second, strife patterns changed silhouettes by causing optical illusion, and showed the rhythm effects, such as swelling, wave or movement by distorting and controlling lines or forms. Third, based on irregular intervals or multi-strife, the concept of unclear disharmony and inconsistency was shown with the beauty of hybridharmony by blending various strife patterns with each other, or strife patterns with different patterns, and thus expressing composite images.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

A Study on the Plasticity of the Gather Represented in Haute Couture The Gather is the plastic technique to represent a sense of voluminosity by pleating the plane of costume and manifests the emotional effects , such as both functional aspects and the construction of form, optical illusion effect, textural feelings from materials, tactile transformations, etc. So it is used as the tool to represent the plastistic beauty of costume. The plasticity of the ancient gather was the drape arising according to the curve of the body, but the type of gather recently found on the haute couture does not only retain the activity and functionalism on which the technical element and the ornamental aspect are mixed with other techiques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.867-877
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• 2009

These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.75-88
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• 2007

Nowadays, geometrical form expressed on costume is recognizing as a part of modeling art, at the same time is working to develop it. Also the geometrical form is affording the coinciding lifestyle and sensitivity of customers keeping their pace. As a result, our study is researching on the geometrical form that is used in the pattern, silhouette, and detail of the costume to show the texture in sense of touch and the effect of optical illusion used in variable designs, in order to present the expansion our capability of infinite development included in the study of costume. Specially, geometrical form included in sports wear is very effective since the geometrical form includes short and simple beauty as well as practical design. Thus, this study is wishing to know if satisfying the practical and psychological urge of present human beings may be applied to the golf wear market, which is a type of sport that geometrical form is sent in the fastest way in domestic market. Also we are urged to know what type of design technique is the geometrical form nowadays used and changed to discriminate the artificial commerce and improve the identity of such unique brand. The source of this thesis is wishing to investigate the specialization and the most effective geometrical shape and preference of each type in domestic golf wear goods that applied geometrical goods in $2002{\sim}2006$ and analyze its way of expression.