• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.265-277
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• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.68-74
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• 2010

The development of a numerical model using the fractional area/volume obstacle representation (FAVOR) method for predicting a nearshore current field bounded by complicated geometric shapes, and a three-dimensional (3D) beach evolution was described in this article. The 3D model was first tested against three cases to simulate the nearshore current fields around coastal structures, a river mouth, and a large scale cusp bathymetry. Then, the morphodynamic model tests, which are adopting the nearshore current model, were applied for the computations of beach evolution around a detached breakwater and two groins. It was confirmed that the presented model associated with the FAVOR method was useful to predict the nearshore current field in the vicinity of the complicated geometric shapes. Finally, the model was applied to a tombolo formation in a field site of Kunnui fishery port, which is located in Hokkaido, Japan.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.