• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.73-83
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to contribute in developing guidebooks that can be used in the courses of needlework study by comparing and analyzing the contents and organizations of needlework-related teaching resources available at the present university and fashion-related educational institutions. This research could help us train technical human resources to be highly adaptable in industrial settings. The results of this study showed that the overall organization of contents is mostly divided into such categories as needlework kits, basic hand sewing, seam finishing, partial needlework and decorative needlework. The study results also indicated that such content organization must be considered in basic needlework/sewing processes and that each content needs to provide more various and detailed information by reflecting recent trends in design. Partial needlework has different applications in terms of interlining attachment, subsidiary materials, or sewing techniques; therefore, consistent descriptions and standard guidelines should be given according to what material is used and which design is planned. This study found that most teaching resources covered only needlework or sewing techniques without giving specific descriptions of types of materials, lining and interlining that can have great influence on sewing methods and instructions on how to use the materials. These findings suggest that the teaching resources need to add further technical instructions for the proper use of materials especially in response to the recent release of brand-new materials and sewing machines in the market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.139-146
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing a characteristics of the sewing machines and analyzing the effective sewing time in the garment manufacture process, therefore to obtain the basic data concerned with the sewing. operation standardization. The two methods were experimented. First, two garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected for the analyzing the sewing speed of the sewing operator for the optimized sewing speed using the equipment of Digital Tachometer HT4100. Second, five garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected to analyze the required time data to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine which was used in the sewing factories. The results are divided into 3 categories as follows; 1) Survey results for the optimized sewing speed : The sewing operations of 10~20 cm range were most frequently selected in seam constructions in Korean sewing factories, and the sewing speed of 2,500 R.P.M was most used; 2) Required time to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine : The mean of required time to the fixed sewing speed of 2.500 R.P.M was 3.5 second, and the mean of the real-sewing length during the 3.5 second was 43.8 cm ; 3) Analysis of the optimized sewing speed calculated using these results : The optimized sewing speed for the sewing manufacturers of the upward of 43.8 cm was 2,500 R.P.M. and for the sewing manufacturers of the below of 42.2 cm, the optimized sewing speed was 2.450 R.P.M.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.474-485
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• 2018

Smart sensors and connected devices have changed the concept of garments along with IT technology convergent garments that transform the performance of basic functions. Various types of products have been researched and developed due to the increased interest in smart clothing; in addition, studies based on physical and mechanical properties have also been actively studied to improve accuracy and reliability. This study represents a basic study for the development of smart textiles based on motion recognition for the surfing practice of beginners interested in IT convergence type. A physical durability evaluation of conductive yarn according to sewing method was later carried out. This study is a conditional specimen sewn with cotton lower thread and 100mm pattern length based on the results of previous studies. The durability of the conductive yarn according to the sewing method was evaluated according to the sewing method. Durability was evaluated by two kinds of repeated strain and abrasion tests. The specimen with applied cotton in a lower thread zigzag pattern 2mm stitch size 100mm stitch length was shown to have the most suitable durability for smart textile.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.55 no.5
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• pp.555-566
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• 2017

This study analyzes the practical tasks and required competency for technical designers to provide basic data on the training of domestic technical designers. The survey was applied to 21 technical designers of big vendors as well as investigated tasks, task flow, important tasks, time-consuming tasks, and required competencies. The results of the study are as follows. First, the technical designers were in charge of several brands of buyers and distributors of fashion companies, or several lines of the same brand. The main production items were cut and sewn knits. Second, the flow of task and tasks were in the order of buyer comments analysis, sloper decision to matching style, sewing specification, productive sewing method research, size specification suggestion, pattern correction comments, construction decision to matching style & fabric, sample evaluations, fit approval, business e-mail writing, specification & grading confirmation, and communication with buyer. Third, five tasks (analysis of buyer comments analysis, communication with buyer, pattern correction comments, productive sewing methods research, sample evaluation) were important and time-consuming tasks. Fourth, reeducation was required in order of sewing, pattern, English, fabric, and fitting. Fifth, competencies to be a technical designers were fitting, pattern correction, size specification & grading, construction & sewing specification, sewing terms & techniques, and communication skills. In conclusion, technical designer training should focus on technology-based instruction, such as sample evaluation, fitting, pattern correction, and productive sewing methods research of cut and sewn knits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the influences of learners' self-efficacy on class satisfaction in learning practical basic sewing. Questionnaires were distributed to 181 college women students living in the areas of Deagu Metropolitan City and Gyeongbuk Province. The data obtained were analyzed by using various statistical tools: frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple regression. The self efficacy of learners of practical basic sewing were made up of five factors: ability to manage interpersonal relationships, ability to deal with assigned tasks, anxiety, challenging spirit, and fear. Class satisfaction was composed of the following factors such as interest in class, professors' ability, achievement of class objectives, connectivity, preparation for class, preference for practices, and perfectibility. This study indicated the correlations between sub-variables of learners' self efficacy and class satisfaction. In other words, the higher were the levels of ability to manage interpersonal relationships, and ability to deal with assigned tasks in self efficacy, the higher were the levels of interest in class, professors' ability, achievement of class objectives, preference for practices, and perfectibility in class satisfaction. The factors of ability to deal with assigned tasks, anxiety, and challenging spirit, in learners' self efficacy were found to have statistically significant effects on the achievement of class objectives. The factor of ability to deal with assigned tasks in self efficacy had a statistically significant influence on professors' ability. The factors of ability to deal with assigned tasks, anxiety, challenging spirit and fear were found to have statistically significant effects on all the factors of class satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2017

We selected 81 universities (39.1%) for research and close analysis to analyze the current availability of courses in the field of clothing construction at four-year domestic universities. The results of the analysis shows that curriculum is currently composed of theoretical and practical courses that continue to be developed in diverse areas of study. Despite having classes with underlying similarities and differences, research shows that the course curriculum is constructed systematically with both theory and practice at each stage. Distribution of curriculum in the field of clothing construction were organized and analyzed by similar courses in 4 larger groupings and 9 sub-groups. Analysis of the large groupings showed that sewing courses (19.8%), pattern development courses (41.0%), advanced sewing courses (14.1%), and miscellaneous courses (26.1%) were established. Analysis of the sub-groups showed that basic theory and sewing courses (3.6%), sewing courses (16.1%), flat pattern courses (17.9%), draping pattern courses (14.6%), pattern CAD courses (7.3%), tailoring and advanced sewing courses (8.5%), scientific sewing and apparel production processing courses (1.4%), special sewing courses (3.9%), and miscellaneous and new subject courses (26.1%) were established. Overall analysis of the organization distribution was conducted in the order of pattern development (39.9%), miscellaneous & new subject (26.1%), basic theory and sewing (19.8%), and advanced sewing (14.0%). Field analysis from various angles indicates that pattern development, new subject courses, and miscellaneous courses had a relatively higher proportion than other major courses. From this it can be inferred that this trend is an effort to develop individuals to adapt to a rapidly changing fashion industry and environment. The composition of courses also shows great advancement towards diversification and course development. However, there is still insufficient exchange between industrial and education sites. As active exchange continue to be demanded, classification standards for new subject courses and titles of such studies have become unclear and have reached limitations.