Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.25
no.8
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pp.1524-1535
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2001
The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.
This study aimed to develop basic pants patterns reflecting somatotype characteristics of the women in their 20s. In order to develop basic pants patterns for women in their 20s, wearing tests were conducted. With the results of wearing tests, drafting methods were applied by using regression equation for the parts that were found to improper. For the parts where regression equation was not applicable, the results of wearing tests were applied. The results and the conclusion of development of basic pants patterns for women in their 20s were as follows. The waist height was applied for the regression equations of waist to hip length, crotch length, and knee length, and the hip circumference was applied for the regression equations of front leg opening. Also, back leg opening, front knee width and back knee width were calculated based on the front leg opening. For the waistline the ease of 2cm was added, and for the hipline the ease of 4cm was added. H/16 - 1cm was applied for the drafting of front crotch width, and H/8 was applied for the drafting of back crotch width. Pants patterns for women in their 20s on the methods mentioned above were tested for the $2^{nd}$ research wearing tests, and they received good ratings on the items and demonstrated that the developed pants patterns had excellent body fit.
The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.5
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pp.741-751
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2009
In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.35
no.3
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pp.312-324
/
2011
This investigates the type of pants preferred by Korean men in their 20s through a subjective wear test. Six types of men's pants were developed as experimental garments. The male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 and 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental pants were rated using seven Likert scales. A 7-point Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 indicating the best fit. As a result, a basic men's sloper for lower body clothing was developed based on SizeKorea 2004 anthropometric measurements surveyed between 2003 and 2004. A basic pattern (A) was manipulated to tight-fit pants (E) and loose-fit pants (D, L, M, and N) by considering the ease at hip level and the style. Among the six pants, pants D and L (4cm ease at hip level) were found to be superior to others in terms of comfort, fitting, and crotch depth. With regard to ease and comfort of the crotch part, pants E and A (0cm ease at hip level) were found to be the least preferred.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.2
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pp.57-73
/
2019
This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for the production of outdoor pants for active senior males, which is emerging as a new consumer bracket in the rapidly aging society. To this end, this study modified and complemented the patterns of existing outdoor pants for active senior males, that received the most positive evaluations. On the basis of the research and outdoor wear assessment results, this study proposed the matters to consider in the manufacturing of outdoor pants for active senior males. As a result of the existing outdoor wear's wearing assessment, the pants of brand C were revealed to be the best. This study actually designed research outdoor wear by modifying the problematic parts by adding and subtracting spare length or circumference, on parts where fit satisfaction was low, and by referring to the selected brands' patterns. The research outdoor pants were designed by referring to the preferred outdoor types and colors that were revealed in the survey results. The wearing assessment was conducted by comparing the manufactured research outdoor pants and the existing outdoor pants, which were selected as the best outdoor pants. Consequently, this study verified the fit of the research outdoor pants was superior to most items. This study proposed the final patterns of outdoor pants suitable for active senior males through the modification of several items that required some improvements revealed via the wearing assessment of the research outdoor.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.1
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pp.90-100
/
2013
This study uses a survey questionnaire to identify the major customer age class of adult women who frequently mountain climb as well as analyze their purchasing behavior and preference of mountain climbing pants. The field survey, classified the types of mountain climbing pants, selected the types of mountain climbing pants that consumers preferred, and then analyzed the degrees of satisfaction for mountain climbing pants based on an evaluation of wearing. Specifically, the patterns of mountain climbing pants preferred by national brands and licensed brands were compared and analyzed. The validities of commercially available mountain climbing pants were analyzed through an evaluation of wearing comfort and an evaluation of wearing on a 3D simulation of the human body. The basic data for the development of mountain climbing pants are presented based on the results. The survey questionnaire results indicate that the major class of women consumers of mountain climbing goods was in the 40s to 50s; in addition, the types they most wore were straight type and functional cut type. The preferred brand was KOLONSPORT (which occupies a 21.2% market share), followed by THE NORTH FACE (13.0%), K2 (11.5%) and Kolping (10.0%). The main reason (26.8% of responses) that they preferred these brands was functionality. The difference in measurement of climbing pants patterns could be analyzed accurately in the pattern analysis, the wearing evaluation by the self-sonsory test and evaluation of wearing comfort through 3D simulation. The results of ANOVA on motions and items indicates that no significant difference was found among motions; however, a significant difference was recognized among items. A comparison of straight type and functional cut type showed that the functional cut type excelled slightly in wearing comfort.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.23
no.2
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pp.79-91
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2021
This study aims to rectify the disfigurement of bowlegged, (which means they have a gap between knees due to knee joint problems) females in their twenties through the development of pants patterns. The contents of the study are as follows: First, two types of basic pattern-making methods were selected. Two mock-ups, which were made by using these pre-selected basic patterns, were worn by three bowlegged participants and evaluated with a fit test. A basic pattern, which had good body fit was selected, which had a bubble or a wedge at in crotch area and roomy or snug upper thigh. Second, the mock-up, which was made by using the selected basic pattern, led to the outward movement of crease lines. Two types of patterns that were adjusted were evaluated through a fit test. As a result, an effective adjustment for moving the crease line to the outside or to the center was to cut along the slash line of a horizontal balance line to, but not through the crotch seam to spread the pattern at the hip. Third, three patterns were readjusted using the chosen alteration pattern, and the crotch seam and spread patterns of 1 cm, 2 cm, and 3 cm at the hip were applied. As a result of the evaluation of the fit test, three participants-the majority-showed a better fit when the spread amount in the pattern was 2 cm, although every participant did have a different gap between the knees. This study has significance in which rectifies the disfigurement of bowlegged individuals through the development of patterns for females in their twenties who are bowlegged.
The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.45
no.6
/
pp.986-1003
/
2021
This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.
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