• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.433-440
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• 2006

This research was made to suggest a functional and fitted prototype of swallow-tailed coat for sports dance. We established the basic posture of standard dance from literature investigations, and grasped the changes of the body side-surface by motions through the gypsum-experiments with a man in twenty. The unfolded gypsum shells were overlapped on the basic swallow-tailed coats pattern drafted by their size of experimenter. From our results through analysis, our pattern of the swallow-tailed coats for sports dance was designed considering their functional and structural character. In case of upper body with the greatly increased shoulder width of garment and with the decreased front. When moving, owing to the rising of the armpit point, the side-line becomes longer with the shoulder length decreased greatly. In case of sleeves, the length of sleeves back increased greatly by the arm-bending motions while sleeve height becomes lowered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to establish basic materials for fashion merchandising by observing the street fashion of the juveniles and by analyzing their wearing, coordination and fashion trend. We have taken the photograph of the street fashion of 202 male teenagers and 265 female teenagers in Busan, and analyzed in the category of style, item, color, pattern, materials, hair style, shoes and accessories. We have concluded that the most frequent items were shirts (male), turtle neck (female) and jeans. The main style was casual just as jumper-look, sweater-look, gardigan-look. The typical female fashions that were hip-hop-look, twin neat-look, trench coat-look, were more various than male. For the color coordination, contrast color coordination was more dominant than similarity color coordination. Dominant patterns were solid, and also check and stripe patterns were frequently found in upper garment. The representative materials were soft for upper garment, and hard for trousers. Male teenagers prefer middle-length hair style and female teenagers prefer long hair style. The juveniles in Busan are wearing sports shoes and leather shoes in similar frequency. Their favorite accessories are bag, muffler and hat.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.31-42
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• 1991

To understand the shape of the neck in a view of garment planning, principal component analysis has been appliedto the measurement of the neck. The neck surface development and the cross sections of the neck have been observed. The materials consist of the body mearsurements, the neck surface developments and the cross sec- tions of the necks of a total of 108 korean woman students. The difference between the right side and the left side of the neck has not been reconginiged. But the differenece among the height of the front neck point, that of the side neck point and that of the back neck point has been recognized. 2. The initial 41 items have been found having variety and duplication. So two criteria have been made to solve those problems and the selection of 34 items have been made by each criterion. 3. 43 and 34 items have been compared by means of accumulative ratios of contribution and of clearness within the meaning of principal component. As a result, 34 measurement items have been further anylysis. 4. As a result of principal component analysis on the 34 items, the four principal components have been found obtaines and inter-preted. The four principal components are 1) the thick of the neck, 2) the front neck-line on the waist basic pattern, basic pattern, 3) the shape of the neck surface development, and 4) the back neck-line on the waist basic pattern. 5. According to the graphic informations concerning these principal components, the meaning of these four principal components has been grasped on the visual. As a result, there is a large individual difference in the shape of neck.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-84
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.75-87
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• 2019

The purpose of the study was to suggest a cycle wear top jersey improved in mobility. The study developed a new cycle wear with improvement in dissatisfaction factors by planning design, pattern and the functionality of fabric. Considering the amount of sweat and the necessities of compression part, the basic material, the additional compression material, and the mesh material were arranged differently according to areas. The assessment of the developed cycle wear was composed of wearing comfort evaluation by female cyclist, photo analysis and garment pressure evaluation. The developed cycle wear was evaluated and compared with the current cycle wear. As a result of wearing comfort evaluation, the developed cycle wear was evaluated as better than the existing ones in all part, particularly in the areas of reflection tape and materials, partial pressure, pocket size, and prevention of loss. Photo analysis was in agreement with the appearance evaluation of the participants. As a result of garment pressure evaluation, the front neck part was more comfortable and the upper arm, abdomen, and waist area showed higher pressure, so it partially supported the body. This study has significant meaning for developing a new cycle wear top, protecting the body and improving the exercise effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.66-77
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• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).