• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.57-67
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to improve the clothing life of the children between the nine to twelve by making a scientific and rational basic bodice pattern. The comparison of the eight pattern drafting currently used in Korea was referred in order to make new basic pattern. Three hundred fifty-two subjects from 9 to 12 years old in Seoul area were measured on 19 items. The measurements (24 items including 19 measured items and 5 drafted items that were difficult to measure) were analyzed by mean values and correlation coefficients between each item. This new pattern attempted to set the ease for clothing from experiments of the changes of body surface in motion. On the basis of the above results, a new bodice basic pattern was developed and tested with wearing three times. Through the experiments in measuring the changes of the body surface in motion, it was concluded that it desirable to set a standard of 12cm clothing ease on the bust circumference and 4cm on the waist circumference. The correlation coefficient of the tack width to across back was relatively high (r= .677), therefore, the latter measuring items were eliminated. A grading method was adopted to determine the width and depth of neckline and shoulder slope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.463-474
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• 2003

In this research, adult women＇s shoulder types were Classified through direct and indirect measurements to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, regression formula by shoulder types were calculated and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 66.1 to of total variance. 2. By using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and subject were classified into 5 clusters. Type 1 was the inclined shoulders, wide shoulders and passive posture. Type 2 was the front type shoulders and active posture. Type 3 was the thick shoulders and back type shoulders. Type 4 was the narrow shoulders. Type f was the drooped shoulders, thin shoulder and sway posture. 3. The body types of individuals were judged by discriminant analysis. 4. After setting 4 items such as the bust girth, posterior waist length, neck base girth and waist girth as representative items and regression formulas were presented. the superiority of the final basic bodice patterns were demonstrated by high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2005

The purpose at this study is to develop the appropriate bodice model for Chinese women in order to contribute to the improvement of fitness at clothing products that are exported to China. The sample group was the subject of 149 persons with the standard body shape at 19-24 years old women who reside in Beijing and Shanghai, China. The data analysis is processed for statistics using SPSSWIN 10.0 PROGRAM, and the used analysis methods are technical statistics analysis, factor analysis, group analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The outcome of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Prior to develop the tight-fitting shape of bodice model, the body classification approach by the posture and type of bending and stretching is selected to use 6 index items, and the body types are classified into bent body, right body, and pull-back body. 2. The average body size of standard body shape had 3 times of wearing experiment based on the tight-fitting shape of ESMOD bodice block drawing, and the system was corrected and supplemented to present the final bodice block drawing. 3. Comparisons have been made based on the center front line, center back line and chest circumference for each of existing bodice block for Chinese women, existing bodice block for Korean women and the combination of the bodice block under this study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.157-164
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze bust point information presented in literature and the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2021) as a basis for pattern making for Korean adult women. Therefore, the the bust point position was analyzed through the length from the side neckline to the bust point and the horizontal length from the bust point to the chest. The results are as follows. First, Size Korea's population shows an increase in bust circumference and Side Neck Point to Bust Point with age, with the largest Bust-Point Breadth in the 30s, followed by the 20s, 40s, 60s, and 50s. Second, the Bust-Point Breadth in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created from the bust circumference measurements of Size Korea's population, was wider than the measurements, and the difference was verified as a highly significant. Third, in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee created with the bust circumference dimensions of Size Korea's population, the length of Neck Point to Bust Point was shorter than the measured value, and the difference was highly significant. Fourth, the Bust-Point Breadth and Neck Point to Bust Point in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created with the bust circumference of the population of Size Korea by age, were analyzed in different age groups and showed significant differences from the measurements of Size Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.137-154
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• 2001

This study was made to draft the tight fitting bodice pattern which horizontal and perpendicular stands are to be lightly set, with the consideration of characteristics of body shape in design of clothes. Measurement of body was conducted on 53 women in twenties, and observation was made on surface development pattern by adhesive tape addition method and gypsum method on three standard objects. In the study, bodice pattern was completed by using already made Somato- measurer, compared with existing bodice pattern, and the results are as follows. The result of the correlation analysis by body measurement shows that chest circumference has a relation to B$.$P-front neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, front interscye breadth point, and the item in spine scapulae point has relation to the item of back neck line, and front & back horizontal values. The degree of shoulder slant, width of armhole and of its depth, the amount of breast, back space, back length were shown to be directly measured from the body. In surface development pattern, tight-fit bodice pattern necessary to the breast volume and back space were shown to be investigated and these volume have to be given in setting up basic line for clothes design together with body measurement value. The result of sensory evaluation for appearance test on fitness shows higher value of research bodice including line of shoulder line, front and back interscye breadth, chest circumference, waist circumference, armhole circumference and of its depth, compared with the research bodice in most items. The result of this study is seen showing high effectiveness for the basic data to design the ready-made dress of high sensitivity of high value added tat.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

This research proposes a pattern making method for women's bodice by the characters of body types and develops bodice dress forms on their body shapes applying 3D body scan data. 515 women's body scan data was collected and analyzed factor and cluster analysis. Three body types were characterized in normal, obese, and slim group. In each group, 10 subjects were selected. 20 parts in 3D anthropometric data were measured using Autocad program. The amount of waist dart was calculated and three types of basic bodice pattern were developed using the calculated darts data. The amount and the position of front dart and side dart were different at obese group in comparison of normal and thin group. The three types of basic bodice model were made by the basic bodice pattern, and each model was scanned by 3D scanner to make 3D bodice dress forms. Three types of bodice dress forms were rendered using 3D max program. Bodice dress forms had the dart lines and were useful to draft patterns to fit their body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.129-141
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• 2003

The aim of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean made apparel products being exported to China by developed the standard bodice block for the standard body of chinese women. For study, 139 adult Chinese women(aged between 19 and 24) in Beijing and Shanghai were sampled to be measured for there body sizes. In order to develope the standard bodice block, 3 women was selected closely the standard body measurement and the fitting was tested. The results of this study were as follows. As compared with the means measurement of chinese women in Beijing and Shanghai, there were difference between the two. Especially, width, thickness, girth and hight items. The standard bodice block drafted and tested. It showed unfit problems. and were adjusted. The application measurements of standard body was selected. As based on item, it has finally developed the standard bodice block of tight-fitting shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.