• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.485-495
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• 2003

This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.157-175
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• 2015

The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research on changes of body surface according to golf movements in designs of golf slacks pattern and reflect it to designs of golf slacks pattern to enhance adaptability. For the first stage of this study, length of body surface was analyzed by using 3D body shape. In second stage, analysis of wearing test of golf slacks is performed to extract major pattern design factor of golf slacks and then research patterns were designed. In third stage, 4 differently designed 1st, 2nd slacks were used for analysis of 3D Clothing air volume. The results of this research is as follow. The variation rate of body surface length according to golf swing posture resulted the longest on back swing posture and follow through posture. Waist circumference-omphalion, thigh and ankle circumference increased more than 10% of body surface during golf swing. Front waist circumference-omphalion, right waist to hip length, left waist to hip length and right back center length were decreased more than 10%. As a result of analysis on measurements of 1st slacks pattern design, waist front center getting in values, waist front center going down value, front hip width, and front crotch extension had similar industrial pattern design. Back center line angle, back crotch extension, and knee center point~back waist center point had significant differences. The designs and ease proposed for golf slacks pattern in this study are waist circumference 75.5 cm(1.8 cm, 2.38%), hip circumference 95 cm(2 cm, 2.11%), crotch length(front: -0.8 cm, -1.25%; rear: -1.8 cm, -2.83%), slacks length 96c m, gradient of C.B.L $10^{\circ}$, crotch extension (back 9.2~10.4 cm, front 3.2 cm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.750-763
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• 2013

This research suggests pattern design methods for motion through an evaluation of the appearance and motion of three existing kinds of original patterns (K type, N type, and L type) and modified patterns designed by the researcher. The results of the study are as follows. First, the evaluation of appearances showed that the modified patterns of a standing posture received a higher evaluation compared to the original patterns only in N type and in a sitting posture. In addition, the degree of lowering or a natural feel by the pulling of the slacks waist belt in a sitting posture received a higher evaluation than the original patterns. Second, the evaluation of motions showed that modified patterns received a higher evaluation than the original patterns in almost all items. Per each pattern, it showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort as the whole in N type in crouching motions. The L type showed low scores as a whole (both in original patterns and modified patterns) and the K type showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort of the crista iliaca and groin region in the motion of walking at a normal walking pace, ascending stairs and bending the waist 90 degree to the front. Third, the measuring distance the between back waist point of the body and the back waist point of original patterns and modified patterns during motions showed that the modified patterns of all three patterns (N type, L type, and K type) showed less lowering compared to the original forms in the whole pattern as well as individual patterns. The design method of back waist point developed in this research can be regarded as a design method appropriate for motions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 1979

The functional problems of the basic pattern of clothing are a matter of the first importance to clothing construction. Therefore, the ergonomic analysis of the expansion and contraction of the upper body surface, due to motion, has become required. thus in order to obtain the measurements and rate of expansion and contraction of the upper body surface following from its motions, the development figure of " Shell" and somatometry were employed. The results obtained through the investigation can be summarized as follows : 1) According to the developmental figures of "Shell" the latitudes centering around the shoulder line present contractive tendencies by arm movement. The longitudes around the center back waist length are expansive tendencies when bent forward. In the case of a 15$^{\circ}$ lean backward posture, the longitudes around the center front waist length are expansive tendencies. 2) By somatometry, the region from the scapula to the axilla point the upper back with presents the greatest expansion (more than 30%). The region from scapla to arm presents the maximum rate of contraction. In considering the longitude , under the axilla waist length and the bust point waist length generally shows the greatest rate of expansion. 3) The bust point waist length and under the axilla waist length are of great importance to the basic pattern of clothing. and have expansive tendencies(6.3cm). Among the latitudes, the upper back width has the greatest tendency for expansion (7.83 cm). 4) The region which presents the greatest rate of the expansion and contraction is in the proximity of the arm. These results testify that the amount of room of the back width must be given consideration in constructing the basic pattern of clothing.pattern of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.61-72
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to suggest a new way to approach measuring the waist line of slacks. The pattern formulated enables a construction method that optimizes motion. The method is based on the measurement on the length change of the body surface line. The research reveals: 1. The analysis of expansion and contraction by area showed that G8 markedly shrunk, whilst G15 maximally stretched during M4 motion. 2. The areas that stretched during M2 motion were, in order of size: G10, G17, G16, and G8. Conversely, the areas that shrunk are, in order, G9, G11, and G18. The areas that stretched during M3 motion were G10, G17, G16, G12, and G15; the areas that shrunk were G9, G11, G18, and G8. 3. In constructing the slacks pattern to allow for appropriate movement, we calculated the length between the knee and back of the waist, point (y), using Pythagoras’theorem and trigonometry. The equation was y = 1.005x. 4. In the two pattern N method and L method, y is equal or less than x, but for our research pattern, y was larger than x

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to classify and analyze the somatotype of early middle-aged women and to provide its total data for clothing construction, and to improve clothing culture. The subjects were 277 early middle-aged women between 35 and 44 years old. Data were collected through anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The results were as follows; 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 10 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 86.13 percent of total variance. 2. Using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and the subject were classified into 4 cluster. Type 1 is tall, slim, and X type in front. Type 2 is standard height and weight, short upper body, and hip-protruded on the side. Type 3 is standard height, thin, H type in front, back and hip are clearly protruded, and lean-back type on the side. Type 4 is standard height, fat, and long upper body. 3. According to the stepwise discriminant analysis, the 8 important iems is classifying the somatotype of early middle-aged women are as follows : bust girth, back length hip breadth-waist breadth, back protruded point depth(back)-back waist depth(back), hip tangent tilt, hip depth(back) waist dapth(back), bust depth-waist depth, and cervical hight, The correct classification rate for these items is as exact as 83.20%.