• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.32-41
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.33
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• pp.95-120
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• 2013

This study is about small theaters in Paris which produced the theater of the avant-garde(or theatre of the absurd) in the 50s. Paris was at the center of astonishing passion by small theaters in terms of spectacle. Small theaters actively embraced young actors/actresses, theater troupe and playwrights who created a new way to express their plays. They were mostly obscure but showed talent and genius. So playwrights came from abroad such as E. Ionesco, S. Beckett, A. Adamov and others were able to create a new type of comedy and experience theatrical realization. On the other hand, a great many drama creators such as R. Blin, N. Bataille, J.-M. Serreau, J. $No{\ddot{e}}l$ and others appeared. We focused on studying about life of small theaters in Paris as mentioned earlier. The space of representation were limited. They were mostly about ridiculing of dramaturgy of comedy and theatrical realization. The substandard situations and conditions of small theaters fell far short of advantages of spectacle. Some of the theaters - Babylone, Noctambules, Nouveau Lancry, Quartier-latin - have not been able to survive up to this day. Other Theaters - Huchette and Poche-Montparnasse - have been able to last by performing creative activities. The theaters of the avant-garde are historic places of Drama Art. It is quite astonishing that some of the monuments did not last any longer. These were the places where La Cantatrice chauve by Ionesco and En attendant Godot by Beckett were premiered. When will they be restored to their original state? Meanwhile, the theater of Huchette have performed the comedies of Ionesco for last 60 years without a break. It becomes the museum of theater of the absurd that is the cradle of modern play. In conclusion, a great many play creators like playwrights, directors and set designers saw the light of day because of small theaters when there were not enough support fund. Their passion and curiosity still make us look forward to emerging of new drama.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.1 s.1
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• pp.65-74
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends and characteristics of the anti-aesthetic shapes have been expressed in Fashion Show Make-up from 1995 to 2003 and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through various formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. Anti-aesthetics means the beginning of criticism that destroy the system of modernism and the anti-aesthetic shapes in Fashion Show Make-up have been distorted, deformed, destroyed through asymmetrical arrangement or abnormal transformation or extreme reduction or omission and so on. It means that is to enlarge the range of expressions through a new interpretation. The anti-aesthetic characteristics in Fashion Show Make-up can be summarized as Avant-garde, Satire, De-construction, Poverty, inhumanity and most of shapes show experimental techniques in unlimited method. The differences at the turning point in 21C is to increase the experimental attempts such as informal and collage and graphic Make-up and so forth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.27-39
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• 2004

Since around 1990. some experimental and shocking ugliness images have been expressed in Fashion and Make-up as well as Fine arts. The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the expressions through formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of Make-up in the future. Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty. The 20 century art trends representing the ugly shape have been distorted or deformed or destroyed and extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The image and color of ugliness can be summarized as historical, avant-garde, decadence, de-constructive, humorous, futuristic trend and Most of colors are the achromatic ones like black, white, dark gray and red. blue, dark brown and so on. These colors cause some negative attributes such as fear. anger, death, devil, Pain, bad, ill omen, sorrow, despair and the like. At the turning Point in 21C are to be extended the range of color according to the experimental attempts such as informal, collage, graphic and the forth. Lastly, The characteristics of ugliness images expressed in the color of Modern Make-up have been analyzed into formlessness and inaccuracy and deformation by Karl Rosenkranz＇s theory.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.45
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• pp.33-54
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• 2016

This study presents a comparative analysis of the calligrammic poetic dictions shown in the poems of the French poets Guillaume Apollinaire and Paul Eluard and in those of the Korean poet Lee Sang. They were adventurers in the avant-garde movement who used experimental techniques that led to futurism, expressionism, cubism, dadaism, and surrealism. They applied a typographic technique that combined pictorial arrangements of fonts, shapes of compositions and between lines, letters of the alphabet, mathematical symbols, and graphical elements, such as circles or lines, to make up a poem that also looked like a painting. Their works, valued as visual lyric poems, break up language and combine anti-poems. They rejected traditional poetic dictions or grammar, but developed a paratactic poem that freely uses letters and symbols. Their calligrammic poetic dictions arouse dynamic images like space extension. Lee Sang's calligrams seem like abstract paintings that apply geometric symbols like those used in technical drawings. As a result, crossing the boundaries between language and pictorial art by using experimental materials and techniques, their poems deconstruct the creative standards of rational and traditional poetic dictions, creating an adventurous, expressive technique. Their calligrammic, avant-garde poems introduced a new spirit of art into both French and Korean modern poetic literature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.30-37
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• 2010

Dutch artist, Theo van Doesburg had shown short but strong experimental aesthetics in his works through De Stijl movement. He played a leading role for editing De Stijl magazine and performed various formative works such as painting, sculpture, and architecture. In 1923 he opened the first De Stijl exhibition cooperated with Cornelis van Eesteren. In this architecture exhibition he showed rich formal spirits of counter-construction in his major design works, that is Maison Particuliere and Maison D'artiste among three houses projects. Formal characteristics of counter-construction can be summed up under two categories, time and space. Analytical results are as follows; First, the characteristics of counter-construction related to time category include two types of two mode. One is linear aspect of time based on the viewer's movement. The other aspect is simultaneity caused by synoptical effect. These could be proved by the analysis of arrangement of color planes. Secondly, the spatial aspects of counter-construction are produced through two different ways of formal strategies. Van Doesburg arranged cubes in very irregular pattern. This treatment induces ambiguous void and creates feeling of subject's space. And, through deleting, shifting, and extending he could make dynamic spatial effect by interpenetration between in and out. This fluid space thus introduces movements of one's gaze and circulation. He denied traditional classical values which had ruled the western aesthetical discipline for centuries and believed that mankind can reach the realm of universal equilibrium by contrast and tension created by counter-construction. In this vein Theo van Doesburg was an avant-garde artist of Hegelian thoughts who adopted the dialectical method without following the formal characteristics from ancestors.