• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.91-100
• /
• 2000

인체에 대한 거부, 인체의 부재의 다양한 의미를 평면화된 의상으로 전달하고자 한 세 작품을 분석한 결과, 1) 손으로 가공한 종이 / 코트 평범한 / 평범하지 않은, 의도적인 / 우연히, 자연적인 / 인위적인 요소들의 대립을 통해 전통과 현대의 대림과 조화의 의미를 전달하고 있다. 2) 입체 /평면, 벽면 / 바닥, 상체 / 하체 둥의 요소들의 대립을 통해 인체에 대한 냉소적인 태도를 엿 볼 수 있다. 3) 안 / 밖, 하나의 드레스 / 덧입은 드레스, 완전한 평면/ 불일치의 공간은 전통적인 옷입기에 대해 새로운 방식의 옷입기를 제시하고 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권3호
• /
• pp.379-390
• /
• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권7호
• /
• pp.926-937
• /
• 2005

The analysis category of Art to Wear was text analyzed from the research material of 100 projects put together by fashion specialist. The conclusion of Art to Wear was comprehended the general features of it were compared and analyzed from a semiotics context. According to this analysis, the formative features of modern Art to Wear is categorized into three different dimensions from a semiotics light. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of syntactic dimension was divided as an open constructed shape of Space Extension, non-typical Deformation, Geometrical Plasticity. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of semantic dimension express symbolic meaning through metaphorical sign. These sign reflect the body image of the life and death and its objective of Abjection, Hybrid of discultural appearance and the image of Hyper-reality, which are features used to comprehend the inner meaning. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of pragmatic dimension divided the artist emotion and meaning system delivered by Emotive Image, the Phatic Image that arouse inner signification and the Poetic Image which contain artistic and aesthetic meaning within it.

• 복식
• /
• 제38권
• /
• pp.51-72
• /
• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.59-68
• /
• 2016

This paper identified the source of inspiration to cooperatively design a fashion collection from US undergraduate clothing design students and addressed how to implement team-based learning strategy to conceptual clothing design in class. Data was collected from the total of 51 students in a senior clothing design course at a large 4-year university in the US. The assigned project for this class was to develop a group collection under a same theme. Each student worked with his/her team member(s) to create an outfit and the entire class worked as a group to create a cohesive collection. The study showed that the sources of inspiration for the themes/concepts came from 11categories: historic era/old Hollywood glamour, shape/line/structure/architectural, fairy tales movies, nature/abstract, circus/mysterious, occasion/place, object, designer/artist, futuristic, culture, and various movies. To implement cooperative learning strategies in the clothing design class, a total of five class presentation/discussion sessions were held for theme/concept decision, fabric decision, design decision, test garment evaluation and design modification, and final products. Throughout the design process, team-based learning strategy promoted students' engagement and participation and inspired their critical thinking skills for making decisions within a team.

• 복식
• /
• 제39권
• /
• pp.239-255
• /
• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• 복식
• /
• 제53권6호
• /
• pp.161-173
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.378-386
• /
• 2005

Painting style has mostly affected the creativity of fashion design. The formative of shape and color shown in each painting has close relationship with fashion design. With use of ideas of artists, the fashion designers have made clothes having novel and creative designs. Since the society becomes more diverse and complex and the men's life style has been changed, the contemporary man expresses himself by fashion and he needs the fashion having emotionality and individuality. In accordance with the contemporary customer's needs seeking for the individuality of his own, the development of much more originative and differentiated cloth design by adapting arts to fashion designs is needed. In this study, therefore, the paintings of Paul Klee, who is the representative contemporary artist, have been used as man's dress shirts and jean pants. The paintings have been printed by CAD system. As a result of the adaptation of Paul Klee's painting to men's dress shirts and jean pants, a modern and creative design is developed. And also a new and differentiated design is achieved freely with use of the CAD system by changing the design, textile, and color ways.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제15권4호
• /
• pp.647-660
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop 'fashion design for kidults' appling fashion illustrator Jeffrey Fulvimari's work which is offering inspiration through collaboration with artists of various fields, and it was also used to advertisement visual of many products. The method of the study is composed of literature study and development of fashion design based on it. The literature study is referred to books of fashion, books of trend and data collected through Internet, and design results are presented using Adobe Illustrator 10 and Photoshop 7.0 programs. This study chose images which give cute and lively feeling among famous fashion illustrator Jeffrey Fulvimari's works on the basis of influence of kidult trend appeared in modern fashion and presented kidult fashion design that expresses naive & happy memories of childhood girlishly and sexily using CAD system. Appling images appeared in Jeffrey's work to kidult fashion design could confirm that artist's work has a realizable possibility as high value-added design component, and it answered to kidult trend which is expressed variously in modern fashion.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권3호
• /
• pp.51-74
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.