• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.73-83
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• 2014

이 논문은 인도의 공예분야 사회적기업 인더스트리 크래프트가 정부 보조금 의존에서 벗어나 지난 30년간 어떻게 수익을 창출하고 글로벌 사회적기업으로 지속가능한 성장이 가능했는지를 분석한 논문이다. 분석을 통해 도출한 성공요인들은 다음과 같다. 첫 번째 요인은 이해관계자들의 가치 창출로서 사회적 미션을 목표로 각 이해관계자들의 가치를 최우선 고려하였으며 가치를 상호간 공유했다는 점이다. 두 번째 요인은 독특한 내부경영방식으로서 더 많은 부가가치 창출을 위해 조직체계에 독특한 비즈니스 모형과 4P전략을 도입하고 생산자집단의 자립을 돕는 경영방식을 도입했다는 것이다. 세 번째 요인은 학습 및 혁신문화 조성으로서 변화를 두려워하지 않고 끊임 없이 새로운 디자인 전략을 세워 도전하고 시행착오를 조직학습으로 이끈 학습문화를 구축했다는 점이다. 마지막 네 번째 요인은 시의적절한 재정 및 자원의 확보로서 규모 확대 시기 때마다 민간기업과의 제휴 및 투자 유치, 충분한 기술인력자원 확보 등 적절한 재정 및 자원을 확보했던 점을 들 수 있다.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.11-28
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• 2007

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.265-281
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• 2018

Government policy supporting the fashion industry in Korea has focused on the future development of rising fashion designer's brands, and as a part of this support, several Fashion Creative Studios are presently operated. The purpose of this study is to identify the meaning of these facilities and suggest development strategies for their effective utilization. This paper presents a conceptual understanding based on a literature review, and deduces the direction of Fashion Creative Studios through an exploratory analysis of various case studies and in-depth interviews with five designers, who have graduated from the Seoul Fashion Creative Studio. The results are as follows. Firstly, fashion educational institutions have to provide sufficient information about the Fashion Creative Studios to students. They can also consider adding short-term residencies to the curriculum in which students prepare collections or portfolios for the studios. Secondly, Fashion Creative Studios are required to intensify business and marketing programs to increase real-world support. It would be helpful to provide 1:1 management programs with several segmented stages for the design brands, or connect them to investors who could provide financial support and business expansion. Thirdly, Fashion Creative Studios need to find a way to strengthen textile differentiation and craft characteristics to increase designer brand competitiveness. Broadening participation with textile designers, connecting with experts and ateliers, and promoting collaboration with artists and artisans in the Arts Creative Studios can be further examined to this end.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.29-59
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• 2019

As 'a total social fact,' drinks and drinking may serve as a lens through which we can view a distant society. Although not frequently discussed, drinking vessels serve the same function for accessing a past world hidden or forgotten behind written records. The present article is an art history attempt to seek a cultural link between liquor vessels used in medieval Korea and the political and social change of the period. The Goryeo period (918-1392) saw an unprecedented abundance of drinking vessels in various forms and decorations. Goryeo artisans and craftsmen produced ewers, pitchers, flasks, bottles, and others in addition to the pre-existing shapes of vessels mainly consisting of jars and bowls. I argue that this sudden burst of creativity during the Goryeo period was closely related to Goryeo's constant and diverse contacts with foreign powers. Their zone of international connections was not confined to the Chinese world, as we have commonly presumed. Even before the Mongol intervention, Goryeo was in contact with regions beyond East Asia through the northern nomadic states. Khitan Liao was recorded as having worked as a kind of international intermediary to link the Chinese and Islamic worlds. This medieval global culture became a norm in Goryeo society when it became an important part of the Mongol Empire. These nomadic powers brought global trends to Goryeo, and foreign drinks were among them; kumis, araq, and grape wines are just three cases of them discussed in this article. The change of alcoholic drinks led to, or was accompanied by, a new range of drinking vessels. Three types of ewers, familiar to East Asian consumers but foreign in their origin, are discussed in the main text to highlight such social change. Three more cases of drinking cups are also presented. The article shows that medieval Korean society was far more open to international art and culture than our usual understanding, and in their drinking vessels, Goryeo culture embraced global trends reaching China, the Islamic world and Europe.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.418-426
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• 2013

본 연구는 전통공예기술인 짜임을 현대 가구디자인에 활용하기 위해 조형적인 분석을 통해 사용자가 쉽게 접할 수 있도록 체계적으로 정리하여 보급하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 정리된 짜임의 분석 자료를 토대로 가구를 제작하는 데 쉽게 적용할 수 있도록 하기 위해 기본적으로 짜임을 이용한 가구로 생성될 수 있는 형태를 조사한 결과, 판재+판재의 결합으로 이루어진 가구, 판재+각재 2축의 결합으로 이루어진 가구, 판재+각재 3축의 결합으로 이루어진 가구로 나누어 볼 수 있었다. 그리고 가구의 위치에 따라 사용되는 짜임을 파악하기 위한 분석으로 가구의 상부에 주로 사용되는 짜임의 종류와 가구의 중앙부에 사용되는 짜임, 가구의 하부에 주로 사용되는 짜임으로 분류하여 각각의 짜임을 분석하여 정리하였다. 이와 같이 짜임은 그 사용되는 위치나 가구의 형태에 따라 그 구조를 이루는데 필요한 짜임이 다르다. 그래서 일반인들이 처음 짜임을 접할 때는 어떤 짜임이 어디에 사용되어야 되는지 파악하기가 힘들다. 따라서 본 연구에서 가구의 조형분석을 통해 가구의 형태별, 가구의 위치별로 적용할 수 있는 짜임을 분석하여 정리함으로써 장인이 아닌 일반인들에게 대중적으로 짜임의 활용도를 높일 수 있는 계기가 될 것이다.

• 산업경영시스템학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.101-111
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• 2020

Companies struggle to make their best products with high quality and service at a competitive price in global markets. However, customer needs and requirements keep changing with a variety of situations. Companies that face the changes can not stay the same and make an effort to adapt themselves to new circumstances. They would probably review the overall management system that is currently implementing to improve management efficiency. Among other things, quality might be considered to be a crucial element if they are manufacturing industries to be sustained in global markets. KSA (Korean Standards Association) is a government-affiliated organization under the Ministry of Trade, Infrastructure, and Energy. It is a Korean standards provider for quality and service industry. KSA confers national commendations for organizations, quality circles, artisans, QCEC (Quality Competitive Excellent Company), and the most honorable KNQA (Korean National Quality Award) every year. KSA established KNQA on the basis of Malcom Baldrige National Quality Award, Deming Prize, and European Quality Award. Research on quality awards shows that there are many similarities in the framework. Although KSA summarizes two factors for 13 evaluation indicators in the quality competitive excellent model of QCEC, the categorization is ambiguous to explain them according to earlier studies. We performed a deep analysis of foreign quality awards and background for KNQA and QCEC. We conducted a content analysis of KNQA and QCEC and matched evaluation items that were closely related. We proposed a quality competitiveness model with three factors, Technology, System, and Tools, summarizing 13 evaluation indicators in QCEC. Based on audit data for six years from 2012 to 2017 we carried out a confirmatory factor analysis for the proposed model by examining the model validity and fitness.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2006

경북 상주지역은 조선초기에 왕실에 소용되는 상품자기의 절반을 차지하였던 곳임에도 불구하고 타 지역에 비해 연구가 대단히 미비한 실정이었다. 이에 상주지역에 관련된 여러 사료들을 살펴보고 상주지역의 한국도자사적의 위치를 조명해 보고자 한다. 조선시대(朝鮮時代) 전기(前期)는 청자(靑磁), 분청사기(粉靑沙器), 백자(白磁), 상감백자(象嵌白磁), 청화자기(靑畵白磁)가 생산되었다. 세종의 명에 의하여 1424$\sim$1432년 $\ulcorner$세종실록$\lrcorner$(世宗實錄) $\ulcorner$지리지$\lrcorner$(地理志)가 편찬되었고 성종대(成宗代)에는 사옹원(司饔院)의 분원(分院)이 설치되는 등 많은 변화가 있었다. 더욱이 조선왕조로 교체되는 격변의 상황까지 겹쳐 강진의 요업(窯業)은 폐요되었고, 강진에서 종사하던 장인들은 보다 안전한 곳을 찾아 전국으로 흩어졌다. 이러한 지역의 하나가 상주의 중모현 기미외리와 추현리(湫縣里)(세종 당시의 지명, 현 모동면)이다. 또한 성리학(性理學)을 근간으로 하는 조선시대로 이행하는 과정에서 백자제작에 필요한 원료의 조건을 갖춘 곳의 한 곳이 경상북도 상주지역이었으므로 강진의 장인들이 이곳으로 이동했으리라 사료된다. $\ulcorner$태종실록$\lrcorner$(太宗實錄)에는 경상도 상주의 중모, 화령 등의 특정지역을 열거하면서 왕실소용기명 제작을 위해 중앙에서 감독관이 파견된 기록으로 보아 15세기 초의 상주의 자기 제작상황을 알 수 있다. $\ulcorner$태종실록$\lrcorner$(太宗實錄) $\ulcorner$지리지$\ulcorner$ (地理志)에는 추현리와 이미 외리를 언급하면서 상주의 자기제작의 위상을 짐작하는 기록이 언급되면서 전국의 상품의 절반을 담당하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. $\ulcorner$경상도지리지$\lrcorner$(慶尙道地理志)에는 상주가 8곳으로 1/3의 자기 생산을 담당하고 있었다. $\ulcorner$경상도지리지$\lrcorner$(慶尙道地理志)에는 $\ulcorner$세종실록$\lrcorner$(世宗實錄) $\ulcorner$지리지$\lrcorner$(地理志)와 동년대에 동일한 목적으로 찬술되었음을 알 수 있다. $\ulcorner$경상도실록지리지$\lrcorner$(慶尙道實錄地理志)에는 $\ulcorner$세종실록$\lrcorner$(世宗實錄) $\ulcorner$지리지$\lrcorner$(地理志)와의 비교를 해보면 상 중 하품의 통합 9개소가 삭제되어 있고, $\ulcorner$동국여지승람$\lrcorner$(東國與地勝覽) 에서는 자기소와 도기소의 위치가 완전히 삭제되어 있다. 이러한 현상은 첫째, 15세기 중엽 경제적 태평과 함께 백자의 수요 생산이 증가하자 군신의 변별(辨別)과 사치를 이유로 강력하게 규제하여 백자의 확대와 발전에 걸림돌이 되었다. 둘째, 동기(銅器)의 대체품으로 자기를 만들어 충당해야할 강제성 당위성 상실로 인한 자기수요 감소를 초래하였을 것으로 사료된다. 셋째, 경기도 광주에서 백자관요가 운영되었으므로 지방인 상주지역에도 더 이상 백자를 조달받을 필요가 없이, 일반 지방관아와 서민들의 일상용기 생산으로 전락하여 소규모화 되었을 것이라고 사료된다.