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Cultural Identity that appear in Latin American Fashion: With a focus on the Mexican brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social

  • Kim, So-Ra
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.61-79
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    • 2013
  • This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

A Success Factors Analysis on Social Enterprise in the Field of Crafts: Focused on the Case of Industree Crafts in India (공예분야 사회적기업의 성공요인 분석: 인도 인더스트리 크래프트의 사례를 중심으로)

  • Kim, Myung-Hee
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.14 no.6
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    • pp.73-83
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    • 2014
  • This paper is to analyse how Industree Crafts, social enterprise in the field of crafts, could generate profit and create a sustainable growth for the last 30 years out of dependence on government grants in India. Success factors was drawn from the findings as follows. First, bringing stakeholder value: it preferred social mission as a goal for generating the value of stakeholders respectively and shared value mutually. Second, building distinctive internal business processes: it adapted unique business model and 4P strategy into its internal organization system and introduced the way of management to support the independence of self-help groups aimed at creating greater added value. Third, promoting learning and innovation culture: it challenged with the help of new design strategies continuously, was unafraid of change, and promoted learning culture to turn trial and error into the organization learning. Finally fourth, securing right finances and resources: it obtained proper finances and resources such as trying joint-sale, attracting investment from a private company, and acquiring enough skilled artisans at every scaling up.

A Study on the Sang-Uiwon to Make Royal Attire in Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 상의원의 왕실복식 공급체계 연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.2 s.111
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    • pp.11-28
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    • 2007
  • Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

A Study on the Assignment and the Procurement Method of Wood Works' Craftsman in Royal Tombs Constructions in the Late Joseon Period (조선후기 왕릉 조성 시 목공사 장인의 배정과 조달 방식)

  • Lee, Sang-Myeong
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.19-34
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

Factors relating to Changes in Costume Style of Stone Statues at Tombs of the Emerging Gentry (Sadaebu) in the Joseon Dynasty (사대부 묘 석인상 복식의 양식변화 요인에 관한 고찰)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.6
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    • pp.12-23
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    • 2008
  • This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

The current situation and development strategies of the Fashion Creative Studios in Korea (국내 패션창작스튜디오의 현황과 발전에 대한 연구)

  • Kim, Hee young;Ha, Jisoo
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.26 no.3
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    • pp.265-281
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    • 2018
  • Government policy supporting the fashion industry in Korea has focused on the future development of rising fashion designer's brands, and as a part of this support, several Fashion Creative Studios are presently operated. The purpose of this study is to identify the meaning of these facilities and suggest development strategies for their effective utilization. This paper presents a conceptual understanding based on a literature review, and deduces the direction of Fashion Creative Studios through an exploratory analysis of various case studies and in-depth interviews with five designers, who have graduated from the Seoul Fashion Creative Studio. The results are as follows. Firstly, fashion educational institutions have to provide sufficient information about the Fashion Creative Studios to students. They can also consider adding short-term residencies to the curriculum in which students prepare collections or portfolios for the studios. Secondly, Fashion Creative Studios are required to intensify business and marketing programs to increase real-world support. It would be helpful to provide 1:1 management programs with several segmented stages for the design brands, or connect them to investors who could provide financial support and business expansion. Thirdly, Fashion Creative Studios need to find a way to strengthen textile differentiation and craft characteristics to increase designer brand competitiveness. Broadening participation with textile designers, connecting with experts and ateliers, and promoting collaboration with artists and artisans in the Arts Creative Studios can be further examined to this end.

'Look at the Alcohol If You Want to Know the Country': Drinking Vessels as a Cultural Marker of Medieval Korea

  • KIM HAN, IN-SUNG
    • Acta Via Serica
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.29-59
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    • 2019
  • As 'a total social fact,' drinks and drinking may serve as a lens through which we can view a distant society. Although not frequently discussed, drinking vessels serve the same function for accessing a past world hidden or forgotten behind written records. The present article is an art history attempt to seek a cultural link between liquor vessels used in medieval Korea and the political and social change of the period. The Goryeo period (918-1392) saw an unprecedented abundance of drinking vessels in various forms and decorations. Goryeo artisans and craftsmen produced ewers, pitchers, flasks, bottles, and others in addition to the pre-existing shapes of vessels mainly consisting of jars and bowls. I argue that this sudden burst of creativity during the Goryeo period was closely related to Goryeo's constant and diverse contacts with foreign powers. Their zone of international connections was not confined to the Chinese world, as we have commonly presumed. Even before the Mongol intervention, Goryeo was in contact with regions beyond East Asia through the northern nomadic states. Khitan Liao was recorded as having worked as a kind of international intermediary to link the Chinese and Islamic worlds. This medieval global culture became a norm in Goryeo society when it became an important part of the Mongol Empire. These nomadic powers brought global trends to Goryeo, and foreign drinks were among them; kumis, araq, and grape wines are just three cases of them discussed in this article. The change of alcoholic drinks led to, or was accompanied by, a new range of drinking vessels. Three types of ewers, familiar to East Asian consumers but foreign in their origin, are discussed in the main text to highlight such social change. Three more cases of drinking cups are also presented. The article shows that medieval Korean society was far more open to international art and culture than our usual understanding, and in their drinking vessels, Goryeo culture embraced global trends reaching China, the Islamic world and Europe.

Shape Analysis for the Activation of a Traditional Zzaim (전통짜임의 활성화를 위한 조형적 분석)

  • Namgoong, Sun
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.418-426
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    • 2013
  • This study aims to analyze the formativeness of zzaim (traditional craft techniques to combine two or more materials to make an angle or to weave them to make a slope side) and systematically classified these techniques to help furniture manufacturers effectively utilize them in the design of contemporary furniture. From this data, furniture manufacturers can have benefits to understand which type of zzaim techniques will be appropriate to their plan of building furniture, and practically use relevant techniques in the field. This study classified four different applications of zzaim techniques depending on sites, such as (1) the top, (2) middle body, (3) lower body, and (4) legs of furniture. In summary, zzaim techniques are differently applied depending on the application sites and formative types of furniture. This feature makes general furniture manufacturers who want to apply zzaim techniques for the first time have hard time to understand which kind of technique should be applied to which part. Recognizing this problem, this study expects general manufacturers as well as master artisans to more effectively utilize zzaim techniques by providing the systematic data on the formative analysis of types of furniture and application sites.

A Confirmatory Factor Analysis for Quality Competitiveness Excellence Company Evaluation Indicators (품질경쟁력 우수기업 평가지표의 확인적 요인분석)

  • Park, Dong Joon;Yun, Yeboon;Yoon, Min
    • Journal of Korean Society of Industrial and Systems Engineering
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    • v.43 no.3
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    • pp.101-111
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    • 2020
  • Companies struggle to make their best products with high quality and service at a competitive price in global markets. However, customer needs and requirements keep changing with a variety of situations. Companies that face the changes can not stay the same and make an effort to adapt themselves to new circumstances. They would probably review the overall management system that is currently implementing to improve management efficiency. Among other things, quality might be considered to be a crucial element if they are manufacturing industries to be sustained in global markets. KSA (Korean Standards Association) is a government-affiliated organization under the Ministry of Trade, Infrastructure, and Energy. It is a Korean standards provider for quality and service industry. KSA confers national commendations for organizations, quality circles, artisans, QCEC (Quality Competitive Excellent Company), and the most honorable KNQA (Korean National Quality Award) every year. KSA established KNQA on the basis of Malcom Baldrige National Quality Award, Deming Prize, and European Quality Award. Research on quality awards shows that there are many similarities in the framework. Although KSA summarizes two factors for 13 evaluation indicators in the quality competitive excellent model of QCEC, the categorization is ambiguous to explain them according to earlier studies. We performed a deep analysis of foreign quality awards and background for KNQA and QCEC. We conducted a content analysis of KNQA and QCEC and matched evaluation items that were closely related. We proposed a quality competitiveness model with three factors, Technology, System, and Tools, summarizing 13 evaluation indicators in QCEC. Based on audit data for six years from 2012 to 2017 we carried out a confirmatory factor analysis for the proposed model by examining the model validity and fitness.

A study on the white porcelain in Sangju focus on the literature data (문헌자료를 중심으로 한 상주백자 연구)

  • Kim, Jong-Tae
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.19 no.5 s.67
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    • pp.17-30
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    • 2006
  • The early Joseon Dynasty is very important period of studying about Korean history of ceramics because various kinds of porcelain were produced like celadon, brown porcelain, white porcelain, inlaid white porcelain, blue porcelain etc, $\ulcorner$sejongsilrok$\lrcorner$ $\ulcorner$Jiriji$\lrcorner$ was published and Saongwon established its branch. Moreover, there also had a sudden political change to Joseon Dynasty, so ceramic industry in Gangjin was closed and artisans in Gangjin scattered to find safer place. One of these place was Imiwueri and Chuhyunri, Joongmohyun in Sangju.(the name of the place in that times, now Modongmyun) Also, Sangju in Gyeongsangbuk-Do is one of the places where can get materials for producing white porcelain, so artisans in Gangjin could migrate to the place during change of regime to Joseon Dynasty which based on Sung Confucianism. In $\ulcorner$Tejongsilrok$\lrcorner$, it mentioned specific areas like Joongmo, Hwaryeong in Sangju, Gyeongsang-Do and we can find out about situations of ceramic production in the early 15 centuries with producing dishes for a Royal family. $\ulcorner$Sejongsilrok$\lrcorner$ $\ulcorner$Jiriji$\lrcorner$ mentioned Imiwueri and Chuhyunri and Sangju produced the half of porcelains. In $\ulcorner$Gyeongsangdojiriji$\lrcorner$, Sangju takes charge of 8 spots which is one third of ceramic production. $\ulcorner$Gyeongsangdojiriji$\lrcorner$ and $\ulcorner$Sejongsilrok$\lrcorner$ $\ulcorner$Jiriji$\lrcorner$ were published with same goals at the same year. In $\ulcorner$Gyeongsangdosokchanjiriji$\lrcorner$, there was deleted nine spots which included high, middle, low level compared with $\ulcorner$Seiongsilrok$\lrcorner$ $\ulcorner$Jiriji$\lrcorner$, and in $\ulcorner$Donggukyeojiseungram$\lrcorner$ there was entirely deleted the locations of porcelain spots and potteries.

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