• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.676-690
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• 2013

This study explored the historical meaning and the present practices of Indonesian batik. Relevant literature was reviewed first; subsequently, interviews and observations were conducted to achieve the purpose of the study. Historically, batik was an integral part of the Javanese court art as well as a representation of each regional culture. Batik also became an important means to reveal a national identity in postcolonial Indonesia in the 1950s. There exist two types of traditional and modern type batik in present Indonesia. The traditional batik refers to batik tulis, batik cap, and the combination of tulis and cap. The modern batik is comprised of a batik print as well as the combination of the print and the traditional batik. The traditional batik was practiced at the small-sized village batik workshops and in the government batik research center. A few batik workshops often co-operate with modern screen print factories; however, the use natural dyes for the dyeing of batik cloth is rarely found. Batik was used for varied objects made from fabric materials that include clothing, small fashion items, living supplies and furniture, as well as fine art such as paintings and wooden crafts.

• Advances in nano research
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.165-173
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• 2024

The production of multipurpose cotton fabrics aimed at elevating the quality of aerobic and dance sportswear is explored in this study. Powder metallurgy, known for its high efficiency in manufacturing technological components with minimal waste, is employed as a method for fabricating brush ferrules for painting. The utilization of iron-copper material, prepared through powder metallurgy, enhances the strength and quality of the brush ferrules. A microscopic analysis reveals a robust interconnection between the particles of each layer achieved through isostatic pressure, resulting in a favorable microstructure. The relative density and strength of parts produced from copper-iron powder exhibit an increase with higher pressure levels. The application of this material in brush ferrules ensures their durability and longevity, thereby supporting the creation of artwork. The evolution of art over time reflects changing ideas and possibilities, and technological advancements have significantly improved artistic tools. The role of tools in artistic expression is paramount, and the integration of powder metallurgy materials in brush ferrules fortifies their artistic importance. In summary, this study underscores the advantages of powder metallurgy in augmenting the quality of art tools and facilitating artistic creation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.69-80
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• 2000

Body has been high-lightened as one of the most important theme since the philosophy and the arts are focused on it in the late 20 century. Resurgence of interests in human body has been based on the skepticism on rapid digitalization and do-materialization currently undergoing in electronic media environments. Artists have been endeavoring more and more to find a synthesis which links the conceptual and the sensuous in their works as digitalization gets faster and faster. The Bodily-oriented art uses its visceral qualities, either literally or metaphorically, to engage our total being, not just our mental consciousness, in building a sensuous, evocative statement. Its transcendent ideas are inter- mixed with the fabric of the world. We are touched by this art not only because we understand it cognitively, but because we "feel"it. These characteristics of textile arts caused gradual increase of soft-sculpture works using textiles and implies possibilities of inter-grade of physical and mental world. Ann Hamilton, Magdalena Abakanowiz, Folly Apfelbaum and Pallid Dougherty are, for example, related to the fiber arts. It would be of worth to study the characteristics of contemporary faber-art works, especially done by Abakanowiz who has been regarded as a dominant pioneer in the contemporary fiber arts from the viewpoint of inter-grade of the physicals and the mental. This paper, therefore, deals with the Abaknowiz′works in the context of human body and body-signs. Life and works might be classified into 5 stages; first, learning period since her birth in 1930, second, creation period of Abakan, third, remodelling period of Abakan, fourth, composition and dissolution period of Abakan and the last and fifth, new transformation period of Abakan. ′Abakan′through her whole life as an artist has been a plastic language and based ultimately on external human body but in various materials and forms.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.209-221
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• 1992

A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

카멜레온은 미끈한 몸통과 화려한 색 띠들을 가진 작은 도마뱀을 말하는데 빛, 온도, 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징이다. 또한, 변덕스러운 사람, 요염하고 매혹적인 사람, 속물적이면서도 상황에 재빨리 대처하는 사람 등을 일컬어 카멜레온이라고 하기도 한다. 본 연구의 목적은 상황에 따라 색이 변하는 카멜레온 이미지를 요염한 변덕장이들의 섹시한 스타일로 비유해서 Wearable Art에 실루엣, 색, 텍스처 개발 기술을 접목하여 표현하고자 한 것이다. 연구방법은 카멜레온의 사실적, 개념적 특징들을 Wearable Art 작품으로 표현해 나가는 단계에서 특히, 옷감 표면에 다양한 제작 기술들을 실험해 보는 과정으로 진행되었다. 작품 이미지 컨셉은 'sensuality', 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating' 등으로 표현했고, 연구자의 미래지향적 기호와 움직임을 통한 편하고(comfortable) 즐거울 수 있는(enjoyable)개념 역시 포함되도록 하면서 작품 완성도를 높였다. 디자인 및 제작 포인트는 실제 카멜레온의 전체 라인, 색, 표피 질감 등 그 특징들을 분석하여 본 작품의 형태, 색, 텍스처 등을 통해 상징적으로 표현하도록 하였고, 동시에 요염한 변덕장이 카멜레온의 이미지가 암시적으로 나타날 수 있도록 하였다. 작품 실루엣은 바디컨셔스 라인(body-conscious line)이다. 이것은 카멜레온의 날씬하고 미끈한 몸체를 이미지화 한 것이며 동시에, 속세적이면서도 미래적인 이미지가 암시적으로 표현되도록 한 것이다. 카멜레온 등뼈가 드러난 것을 드레스 등이 노출되도록 하여 표현하였는데 이것은 동시에 관능적이고 요염한 카멜레온 이미지를 나타내는 것이다. 카멜레온의 유선형 머리부분 표현은 완만한 삼각형 모양의 후드패턴을 통해, 카멜레온의 길게 말린 꼬리 표현은 불규칙적인 플레어의 햄 라인으로 처리하여 상징적으로 표현하였다. 카멜레온 색들은 선명한 비비드 톤이면서 동시에 빛 또는 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징인데, 작품 제작 과정에서도 빛과 각도에 따라 드레스 색이 조금씩 다르게 보이는 효과를 가장 중요하게 연구하였다. 검정색 쉬폰 위에 퓨셔(fuchsia)색 작은 벨벳 물방울 무늬가 박힌 소재를 주 소재로 하여 표면에 입체적인 텍스처를 줌으로서 빛의 각도에 따라 두가지 색이 섞여져서 전체적으로 색이 다르게 보이는 착시 결과를 가져왔다. 허리에서의 빨강색과 파란색 계열의 다양한 스톤들은 실제 카멜레온 스킨 이미지와 더불어 돌출된 입체감과 그라데이션 효과로 인해 움직임에 따라 색이 다르게 보이는 결과를 가져왔다. 50% 쉬폰/50% 폴리에스테르에 벨벳 다트 무늬가 들어가 있는 원단을 사용하여 옷감 표면에 탄성실을 이용한 스모킹 주름효과를 주는 기술을 접목시켜 flexible한 스트레치성 옷감으로 재탄생시킴과 동시에 소재 표면에 오돌토돌한 텍스처가 생기게 하였다. 이것은 카멜레온의 표피와 흡사하면서 동시에 몸에 밀착되는 결과를 가져와 섹시하면서도 편안한 작품 이미지 표현에도 적절한 역할을 한다. 스톤장식은 아크릴릭카보숑(acrylic cabochons)과 잼스톤(gemstones)들을 섞어서 사용했는데 카멜레온 등 표피 질감을 상징함과 동시에 색이 다르게 보이는 효과를 나타낸다는 점에서 본 작품의 포인트이다. 드레스 제작은 주로 바이어스 결을 이용한 드레이핑 기법을 이용하였는데, 후드가 앞 몸판과 연결되어 있고 불규칙적인 사각형들이 앞에서 뒤로 옆 솔기 없이 연결되어 있다. 옷은 살아 움직이는 사람이 입어서 가장 편하고 즐거우면 옷의 완성도가 가장 높다고 할 수 있다. 카멜레온 드레스 역시 움직이는 신체와 함께 색이 다르게 보이는 기법과 효과를 연구하는 과정에서 편하고 즐거운 Wearable Art를 완성할 수 있었다. 바로 이점이 입는 예술 즉, 입고 즐길 수 있는 옷에 예술미를 가미한 Wearable Art의 진미가 아닐까 생각한다.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제2호
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• pp.27-48
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• 2004

Robert Rauschenberg's artistic career has often been regarded as having reached its culmination when the artist won the first prize at the 1964 Venice Biennale. With this victory, Rauschenberg triumphantly entered the pantheon of all-American artists and firmly secured his position in the history of American art. On the other hand, despite the artist's ongoing new experiments in his art, the seemingly precocious ripeness in his career has led the critical discourses on Rauschenberg's art to the artist's early works, most of which were done in the mid-1950s and the 1960s. The crux of Rauschenberg criticism lies not only in focusing on the artist's 50's and 60's works, but also in its large dismissal of the significance of the imagery that the artist employed in his works. As art historians Roger Cranshaw and Adrian Lewis point out, the critical discourse of Rauschenberg either focuses on the formalist concerns on the picture plane, or relies on the "culturalist" interpretation of Rauschenberg's imagery which emphasizes the artist's "Americanness." Recently, a group of art historians centered around October has applied Charles Sanders Peirce's semiotics as art historical methodology and illuminated the indexical aspects of Rauschenberg's work. The semantic inquiry into Rauschenberg's imagery has also been launched by some art historians who seek the clues in the artist's personal context. The first half of this essay will examine the previous criticism on Rauschenberg's art and the other half will discuss the artist's 1955 work Rebus, which I think intersects various critical concerns of Rauschenberg's work, and yet defies the closure of discourses in one direction. The categories of signs in the semiotics of Charles Sanders Peirce and the discourse of Jean-Francois Lyotard will be used in discussing the meanings of Rebus, not to search for the semantic readings of the work, hut to make an analogy in terms of the paradoxical structures of both the work and the theory. The definitions of rebus is as follows: Rebus 1. a representation or words or syllables by pictures of object or by symbols whose names resemble the intended words or syllables in sound; also: a riddle made up wholly or in part of such pictures or symbols. 2. a badge that suggests the name of the person to whom it belongs. Webster's Third New International Dictionary of the English Language Unabridged. Since its creation in 1955, Robert Rauschenberg's Rebus has been one of the most intriguing works in the artist's oeuvre. This monumental 'combine' painting($6feet{\times}10feet$ 10.5 inches) consists of three panels covered with fabric, paper, newspaper, and printed reproductions. On top of these, oil paints, pencil and crayon drawings connect each section into a whole. The layout of the images is overall horizontal. Starting from a torn election poster, which is partially read as "THAT REPRE," on the far left side of the painting. Rebus leads us to proceed from the left to the right, the typical direction of reading in a Western context. Along with its seemingly proper title. Rebus, the painting has triggered many art historians to seek some semantic readings of it. These art historians painstakingly reconstruct the iconography based on the artist's interviews, (auto)biography, and artistic context of his works. The interpretation of Rebus varies from a 'image-by-image' collation with a word to a more general commentary on Rauschenberg's work overall, such as a work that "bridges between art and life." Despite the title's allusion to the legitimate purpose of the painting as a decoding of the imagery into sound, Rebus, I argue, actually hinders a reading of it. By reading through Peirce to Rauschenberg, I will delve into the subtle anxiety between words and images in their works. And on this basis, I suggest Rauschenberg's strategy in playing Rebus is to hide the meaning of the imagery rather than to disclose it.