• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.133-151
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• 2007

The role of fabric now directly related with the expression of the beauty of clothing and it provides new and creative ideas. This study was aimed at reviewing basic data that can be used in systematic design development through fabric expression for today's fashion designers who must study unique, original fashion design development. For systematic development of design technique through fabric expression, fabric expression methods and characteristics, aesthetic characteristics and fabric design of 'art to wear' were reviewed and the results are as follows. First, the highly wrought fabric expression of art to wear was confirmed to be comprehending a message within itself. Second, aesthetic characteristics of fabric expression used in art to wear can be classified as decorativeness, extensity, 2-D pictorialness, handicraft, compounding and rearrangement, and 3-D characteristics. Third, the 6 aesthetic characteristics have unique design features and aesthetic categories. The understanding the fabric expression techniques through study on the classification of the fabric expression in 'art to wear' is expected to be extended to proposition of creative direction and inspiration of modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.50-61
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• 2014

Fashion has been compared to art since Japanese avant-garde fashion designers expanded the thoughts about conceptual fashion in late 1970s. The fashion designers focused on the materiality of fashion textiles by placing more importance on it than the shapes. This bears a striking resemblance to contemporary art of 1960s and 1970s as many artists used soft materials like felt, fabric, rubber to emphasize themselves. This study establishes the materiality of fabric, which can be found in both contemporary art and fashion. The classification of materiality consists of flexibility, humanizing and temporality. In this work, there is a significant disparity between contemporary art and fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.74-90
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• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• Journal of Families and Better Life
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.61-71
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• 2010

This thesis seeks to inquire into the effect of group art therapy using a fabric medium on the emotional intelligence of middle school students. This application of fabrics to group art therapy is helpful in terms of gender roles and equality from an educational aspect and can help activate and control positive sentiment. Therefore, it was believed to have a positive effect on emotional intelligence. The subjects were 28 boys and girls who were students of the Supportive Project for the Priority Region of Educational Welfare Investment. The measurement tool is a revision of the emotional intelligence test of Mun Yong-Rin (1997), which itself was based on the emotional intelligence model of Mayer and Salovey (1997). The data materials are analyzed by SPSS (ver. 17.0 for Windows). To test the homogeneity of the groups, the Mann-Whitney U test was carried out, and to analyze the effect of this program, the Wilcoxon signed ranks test was carried out. The results are as follows. This program had a positive effect on the emotional intelligence of both male and female students, especially on their empathy and activation of thinking among the subcategories. This study has significance in that it verifies the effect of the improvement of emotional intelligence by way of group art therapy using fabrics, adding a fabric medium to the art medium. As the subject group was restricted to 28 adolescents in the Supportive Project, it is not easy to generalize the achievement to the entiresphere of group art therapy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.47-60
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• 2002

With such basic conceptions in mind. this study was aimed at reviewing the unique formative aesthetics of scarves for creation of modern apparel design. To this end, the drapeability of the rhythmically wrinkled fabric of scarf as well as its tying and enclosing representation were introduced into the apparel details and silhouette to create an apparel design flattering the moderns unique sense of aesthetics and emotion. In the same vein. threads were superimposed on the planar fabric to express a sense of volume and thereby, pursue a unique decorative effect of rich texture. Specifically. the objectives of this study are to highlight the practical use of scarf warming and its decorative formative aesthetics and thereby, apply it to apparel designs and develop an art fabric using the machine embroidery technique. and ultimately, suggest the possibility of unique but highly value-added apparel designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.111-120
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• 2012

Indonesia has a wealth of traditional textiles that are spread in every corner of its region, each of them has its own characteristics and uniquennes. Among the diversity of decorative and techniques used, there are also peculiarities arising from the coloring techniques, that is staining with natural dyes. The existence and the authenticity of the coloring techniques are still retained in some places in Indonesia until today. Generally, these societies make the fabric-making process as part of the ritual beliefs. One of which are the societies in Tenganan, Bali, an area in Bali which always use fabric as an important part in every traditional ceremony. The fabrics is known by the name Geringsing. The typically color which shown and also the sacred values that accompany make Geringsing a very special woven fabric and cannot be found in other areas. This is one of the local geniuses that need to be preserved. In addition to its unique techniques and special materials, Geringsing woven also keeps its myth and its philosophy. The emersion of Geringsing woven closely related to the community trust in God Indra as the main protector deity. The necessary initial process of making Geringsing is holding special ceremony attended by various circles of Tenganan village society. People in Tenganan believe that Geringsing is a precious heritage avoiding all diseases and disorders of evil spirits.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.9-20
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to identify the original quality of design by Issey Miyake and the relationship between the modern expression of art and his design regarding the form, internal symbolism, and Japanese tradition. The bottom current of the modern expression of art has two current: intention to autonomy or purism and intention to contingency. According to analysis of Miyake's design, it was found that Miyake has directed his attention to coexistance of fabric and the body with a pure fluid sculptured form based on two dimensional rectangular fabric. And his plasticity of dress was also made against the fitted structure form and idea of Haute Couture, emphasizaing on his own creativity and insisting on a creative collaboration between the designer and wearer. Finally, the fact that his design was inflnenced by traditionalison of Japanese costume and current modern expression of art was proved.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13
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• pp.123-137
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• 1996

Weaving, is an ideal subject for study to designer who is concerned with interrelationship between art and technology. Double cloth is a two layered fabric that can be woven on the loom with more than 4 harnesses, is often used to produce special woven fabric such as double width fabric or reverse pattern fabric, etc, in textile industry. Because of the attractive characteristic of two layered structure, double cloth technique can be applied as expressive media in fiber art requiring aesthetics and creativty. in the work, the concept, types, and characteristics of double weave have been studied through literature survey and sample production and the potential characteristics of this technique is, especially, emphasized by analysing the representative works of artists specilized in a double weave. Double weave technique can provide various images or forms throught the variation of structures and expressive styles and therefore suggests another characteristic expression creative means for weaver to develope.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.