• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.34-48
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• 1997

Dresses of the 1950s and 60s when the range and changes of fashion were wide and heavy were closely related with various styles of that time's architecture from the form, use of material, structure to the color. In this, study, characteristics of formalism and brutalism, main architectural streams of that period, such as line, structure, function, material, texture and color are analyzed in detail and these characteristics and those of dress are compared and analyzed to see if there are common aesthetic senses between them. It is particularly noteworthy that at that time formalistic architecture represented joy and abundance through enriched creation of appearance and flowing, symbolic linear beauty while the brutalistic produced young and vivid liveliness through functional, reasonable and moderate beauty, and this young and joyful atmosphere coincided exactly with frank, lively aesthetic senses of the young generation's fashion. Therefore, we can see common significance in the following fact ; architectural modes and fashion art of the 1950s and 60s were the result of more humane and enriched expressions from economical growth, and also product of that time's desire to adapt itself realistically to the rapid, complicated pop culture resulted from mass production.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the aesthetic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion. As a result of study, three artistic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion were presented. First, retro romantic fashion has an exaggerated formativeness. Retro romantic fashion has overcome the confinement of the present to imitate the splendor and decorative style of the past which results in exaggeration. Exaggerated costume tends to be spaciously bigger and emphasizes one particular part which offers implicated significance for the space between the body and the costume. A new visual fashion is created through this space. Second, retro romantic fashion encompasses gorgeous decorativeness. From an artistic point of view, decorations are part of impulsively formulated art. Artistic effects of such decorations are uniformly confirmed in various artistic states. Therefore, through gorgeous decorations, retro romantic fashion rejects artificiality and lack of sensitivity for new effects of aesthetics through expression of stronger artistic and spiritual desires. Third, retro romantic fashion expresses pluralistic retro. The current society has left the formalities of the modernism for a pluralistic society where openness, diversity, and uniqueness are respected. Such components of the pluralistic society are repetitively used in fashion. Time reflective retro romantic fashion is being recreated by borrowing images rather than replaying the historical contents, with the style, silhouette, and specific items that swayed in the past, being combined with modern materials, techniques, and designs. Literature review were conducted for this study. Literature review on retro romanticism encompassed resources on aesthetics, literature and art, including national and international fashion related literatures.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.123-142
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• 1998

본 논문에서 패션 디자인(fashion design)을 평가하는데 있어서 새로운 방법론적 접근 방식을 제시해 보려하였다. 즉 패션 디자이너의 디자인에 대한 철학을 이해함으로서 패션에 대한 근복적인 면에 대해 보다 나은 이해를 갖도록 하는 접근 방식을 모색하려는 것이다. 본 논문의 분석대상은 디자이너 루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich : 1922-1985)와 그의 작품들인데, 그의 작품들에 나타나는 급진적인 성향 뒤에 숨어 있는 그의 디자인 철학을 집중적으로 분석함으로써 작품과 철학의 상관관계를 조명하려는 것이 그 주된 목적이다. 기존의 그에 대한 평가는‘파격적 패션’,‘소설 스테이트먼트(Social Statement)’,또는‘시각적 창출’등의 표현으로 극히 피상적인 것이었다. 반면에 그가 어떠한 경로로 이러한 디자인을 구상하게 되었는지 또는 그가 현대의상에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미쳤는지에 대한 연구는 극히 소수에 불과하였다. 본 논문의 초점은 건라이의 패션 디자인을 그가 중요한 가치로 믿고 있었던‘개인적 자유에 대한 추구’의 반영으로써 재 평가해 보려는 것이다. 이것의 입증을 위해서 그의 디자인들을 역사적, 사회적 그리고 미학적인 관점에서 분석하였다. 먼저 그의 디자인 철학을 도출하기 위해 그의 개인적 배경에 대한 상세한 검토를 하였고, 그의 디자인과 관련된 자료와, 현존하는 작품들과 그에 따른 참고문헌들에 대한 분석 조사 작업을 하였다. 이 작업을 통해 필자는 건라이의 작품들을 세 개의 주된 주제들, 즉,‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’,‘유니섹스 모드(Unisexs Mode)’, 그리고‘옵 아트 패션(Op-art Fashion)’으로 구분하였다.‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’과‘유니섹스 모드(Unisex Mode)’는 60년대 중반에서 70ssu대 초반에 출현한 유스 컬츄어(Youth Culture)에 부합하는 그이 디자인의 반영으로써 성의 혁명, 여성 인권운동과 동성애자 인권 운동과 같은 사회이슈들과 그의 디자인이 갖는 상관관계를 보여주는 것이다.‘옵-아트 패션(Op-art fashion)’은 건라이 디자인의 미학적 요소에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그의 작품에 나타나는 인체와 옵-아트 원리의 관계를 조명해 보고, 건라이가 옵-아트와의 연계하에 그의 디자인을 어느만큼 예술적으로 승화시켰는지를 보여주고 있다. 각 주체들은 건라이 작품들의 개별적인 분석을 통해 논하였다. 본 논문은 보다 넓은 관점에서의 건라이의 디자인에 대한 재 평가로 결론을 지었다. 이러한 재평가 작업을 통해 패션 디자인계에 미친 그의 공헌의 역사적 중요성을 강조하고 현대 패션에 그의 영향이 계속 미치고 있는 이유를 설명하려 하였다.

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제8권
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• pp.78-84
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• 2011

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.111-127
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

This study aims to identify the design of men's wear that has the characteristics of expressing maximalism in men's wear collection and contribute to the field of men's wear fashion which expects new, original, and experimental fashion styles to be created. When it comes to research contents, this study first identifies the concept and characteristics of expression of maximalism in such fields as literature and art and based on this, makes a case study of men's wear fashion designs shown in men's wear collection and then understands the type of characteristics of expressing maximalism and the characteristics related to its expressive method in men's wear design. The study findings are as follows: First, expansion referred to the extreme avant-garde that changed the concept of fashion design by expanding clothes or accessories or exaggerating silhouettes. Second, fanciness continued to appear as a tool to use the luxurious decorations that applied fancy handicraft techniques and express the world of original design. Third, fusion represented the expression of various charms from one work without making any classifications between the tradition and the present and between the east and the west. Fourth, fantasy indicated the expression of surrealistic images by expressing the unbounded imagination through creative ideas.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.438-451
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• 2024

The interlacing technique has a long history of use as a means of creative expression and persists in modern society to satisfy the individual pursuit of pastimes. This method has the developmental potential to create new trends in the future. Interlacing techniques (e.g., basketry, plaiting, braiding, and knotting) are closely related to plastic arts fields, architecture, art, and industrial design where the various interlacing practices are applied. This research uses case analysis to study the types of expression found in the formative art field wherein the interlacing technique is applied. Results reveal several expressions, including optical illusion visual type, relief surface type, porous perspective type, and object borrowing type, all of which appeared in fashion bags. The aesthetic formativeness, which appeared in the fashion bags that applied interlacing techniques, was then classified according to geometric formative beauty in a process based on rules and order. Nature-friendly formative beauty reflecting handicraft locality and omnidirectional formative beauty by disordered deconstruction and heterogeneous combination were determined. The use of interlacing techniques that show creative, unique combinations and variations is expected to inspire the development and application of bag design that suits individual and original modern fashion trends. One limitation of this thesis is that it only studied cases appearing in modern fashion bags.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권7호
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• pp.663-676
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• 2012

This article is to understand the implications and ideological meaning of female normative beauty reproduced by the idealizing phenomena of the hyper-real body as a process of the normalization of the body projected in fashion magazines with a focus on the body created by the increased influence of mass media in consumer capitalism. This study conducts a literature research and semiotic analysis as the method of investigation and focuses on the body images of the beauty articles in Vogue Korea. The idealizing phenomena of the hyper-real body in fashion magazines emphasizes that the body is an exchangeable substance that can be disassembled to adjust to accord with the standards and norms of society, that the ability of individuals to manage their body is enhanced by a rise in social class, and concludes that the superficial alteration of the body image is related to the standard of a moral tendency where a young and slender figure is considered to be a well managed body image.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.76-90
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• 2022

The rapid growth and influence of digital technologies have had a profound effect on modern society. Companies and businesses can connect through SNS(social network service accounts). The importance of mass media empowers the creation of virtual images that are more realistic than time and space. Unlike traditional reproduction or imitation, the virtual images created in this way are reproduced in a form that lacks the original inspiration's essence. Jean Baudrillard described this phenomenon as the theory of simulation. Baudrillard argued that imitated simulated images replace reality. He stated that reality is lost under excessive images in modern society. In response, based on an understanding of the theory of hyper-reality that emerged through the late stages of the order of simulacre, this study aimed to analyze modern fashion's method of reproducing hyper-real images and investigate the method's characteristics. This study examined the characteristics of hyper-reality described by Baudrillard and analyzed the method of artistic expression of hyper-reality. Based on this method of expression, reproducibility, following the stages of image simulation, was derived. A specific case applied to fashion was analyzed, and based on the image reproduction method, specific characteristics of hyper-reality characteristics in fashion were obtained. Sixty-four collections were selected, out of which 155 images and 43 brands demonstrated the principles of image transformation.