• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the Art-Deco style art and hair-style. Art-deco design, which was popular in the 20th century, especially in the 1920s and 1930s, actively absorbed new forms, materials, and aesthetic values that come from technological developments and bridged the tradition to new pupblic culture. Art-Deco style art showed and geometrical decoration tendency to meet modem concept and sense. The over all study on back grounds of Art-Deco style and its art works made possible to figure out the summary on formative characteristics of the style such as simplicity, exoticism, vivid colors, and functionalism. These findings suggest that hair styles borrow its characteristics or image from the past style to create new styles. It was found in the development of new hair styles that patterns or geometric motive appearing the Art-D$\acute{e}$eco style are the source of rich design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.37-52
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• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.84-103
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• 1998

The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.76-85
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• 2019

is based on a true story of the first transgender individual. It portrays psychological changes visually during the protagonist's confusion with self-identity based on gender. This study analyzes gender identity in contemporary fashion intensively based on gender images and costumes appearing in the film . In the society lacking a fixed gender image, this study provides a timely insight into gender identities by analyzing the fashions depicted in the movie. The movie is a true story of the first transgender person working hard to determine his or her own gender identity. As a research method, the theoretical basis of genderless approach was established via literature review. The characteristics of genderless identity were determined by dividing the movie into established and ambiguous gender periods to analyze the comprehensive changes in costumes for comparison. Einer Wagner representing male identity portrays men's fashion whereas Lily Elbe representing female identity depicts women's fashion. While the two different genders find their places in a single body, the confusion creates genderless fashion. By dividing these phases into femininity, masculinity and genderless categories, each costume was analyzed comprehensively, and the images of relatively changing fashion were studied by altering the gender identity. Four characteristics including androgyne, rebellion, pleasure and balance were derived from the gender identity based on Fashion in .

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.43-54
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to clarify the meanings of the images of the body-in-pieces in fashion design. This study focusing on the body-in-pieces based theoretically in that, and started to figure out the meanings in western art history. Body-in-pieces images were brought in art to express symbolic meanings to destroy the past, sexual fetish, unconsciousness, desire, fantasy, and to disorganize male-subjective idealistic female image. While in fashion design, body-in-pieces images categorized in three, erotic image, cyborg image, abjection image. First, erotic images in fashion design are fragmented body image, such like lip, hair, eye and etc. Second, cyborg image was represented by 3-dimentional molding image made of metallic materials, and last, abjection image representing death image used skeleton and bone image induced uncanny and sadistic feelings. Body-in-pieces images in fashion design are related to fetishism, uncanny, disorganizing traditional femininity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.196-207
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• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.2 s.2
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• pp.39-46
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• 2005

Art-Make-up has resulted in occupying one of the central areas of this culture. Art Make-up is currently undergoing various changes. The viewpoint of modern make-up is the infiniteness of emotion such as the subjectively individualized expressions and aesthetic values breaking with conventional thought. The most significant change is the idea of the 'grotesque'. The purpose of this research is to re-clarify the development of the diversity, professionalism and artistic feature through the study of Art make-up based on the 'grotesque' style. This also strives to focus attention at observing the deep and mysterious workings of the human inner world. In order to explain the features of 'grotesque' Art make-up, six images below are presented. Firstly, Inharmonious images. Secondly, disgusting inhuman images. Thirdly, mechanical images. Fourthly, distorted and exaggerated images. Fifthly, diabolic and horrific images. And, lastly, playful images. These six images thoroughly demonstrate the 'grotesque' features. The fact at we can see the 'grotesque' features in Art make-up explains the enormous growth of Art make-up and the unlimited range of expression in this field. It also implies that the choice of material and theme is not restricted to universal artistic criteria. In closing, it is necessary that Art make-up is thought of not as actual art but more as a tool for its subjects. As a result, this research will provide valuable information for studies in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.42-53
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to clarify how modern fashion show makeup reflects surrealism: it also proposes fashion show make-up expressed by focusing on objects. This study aims to research make-up characterized by surrealistic object expression, which is frequently used in the 21st century modern fashion shows, and reviews the concept of the objects positioned importantly in the history of modern makeup. In this study, the influence of the object over modern makeup, particularly fashion show makeup is reviewed together with the characteristics of the object. As a result of reviewing the concepts of modern fashion show makeup by applying objects, the conclusions that are gained are as follows. Fashion show makeup expressed in today's modern time tends to emphasize the artists' unique expressions and personality, while many artists attempt to use various expression ideas and techniques. Objects are variously expressed in makeup and in the $21^{st}$ century, this is the due to the development of digital technology and expansion of designers' imagination Furthermore, surrealistic makeup achieves eminence in styling by showing the formative limits of human beings. The types of surrealistic techniques are expressed as transposition, distortion, and optical illusion in makeup. Expansion of material became the momentum in order to provide unique ideas in fashion show makeup. Moreover, the object of surrealism has a considerable influence on the development of makeup. In this regard, more positive attempts for new designs are being expected.