• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.164-181
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• 2014

As the boundary between fashion and architecture is getting blurred, the interactions of the two fields are turning out abundant as well as essential. This study investigates the tectonic strategies in architectural fashion design as a novel aesthetic in the 21st century by combining literary survey and case analysis on architecture and contemporary fashion. The tectonic strategies in the works of architectural fashion designers were categorized as follows: organic geometry, technological garment construction, and independent space. Organic geometry transforms basic geometric shapes into subtle organic forms after being thrown on the body. Technological garment construction explores the garment structure and volume by applying the structural principle of suspension and fractal geometry. Independent space refers to maintaining the firm three-dimensionality of garment structure which keeps the distance from the body, assuming the similarity to architecture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.35-52
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• 2016

Yeohlee Teng's 'Urban Nomad' concept stresses high mobility and flexibility in 'Clothing-as-shelter' in order to satisfy the needs of urban dwellers. Yeohlee interprets clothing as a portable environment that protects and shelters urban nomads as well as creates space of clothing as intimate architecture. This study examines Nomadism in Yeohlee's designs since 1981 when she received the attention from the fashion critics, by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Nomadism in Yeohlee's work showed the following characterizes. First, 'modular system' deals with the organized dressing system that enables interchanging and layering of separates that function in the fifth season; second, 'organic geometry' describes the architectonic approach to clothing as wearable structure that transforms two dimensional geometry into three dimensional form; third, 'functionalism' refers to the use of technological novel materials, ergonomic clothing construction, and the strategy of using structure as decoration; and fourth, 'reductionism' is the economical approach for realizing Nomadism, which is composed of one-size-fits-all as well as unisex size system and 'zero waste' strategy to maximize use of a piece of cloth.