• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out various types of stripes pattern and to review its' design expression by analysing stripe pattern and visual effect appeared in western women's fashion after 20th centuries. As regards the visual effect of stripe pattern, on the basis of the stripe pattern's direction laid out, we made an investigation of it by classfying it into verticality, horizontality, slant line and mixture of them according to its' gap and thickness. Here are the 4 features of the stripe pattern appeared in modern fashions. The first, graphic variation based on diverse variation and reconstruction and combination between other motives is being onthe rise as a new expression. The second, colorful stripes of Missoni can be exanpled as the trend of diversification of color. The third, as regards the trend of mismatch in pattern, coordination through mismatch can produce experimental and post-modern image. The fourth, as for the expression of draping effect, we find that stripe pattern can maximaze visual effect through draping by inducing visual stimulus, as well as can express human body in a beautiful manner.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate various expressions in textile design using CAD and present print design of '01/02 A/W. Four steps were taken in order to achieve this purpose. The first step was to investigate prior research and to analyze textile design methods using CAD. The second step was to study '01/02 A/W fashion trend, especially textile trend. The third step was to design the print design according to textile trend and apply the designed print pattern to real model. The research results are as follows: 1. Textile design is a very important field to help making fashion industry more informative and valuable. 2. Using CAD system in textile design will be very useful and urgent in saving working time and exercising design works. 3. In '01/02 A/W hound's tooth, zigzag, herringbone will be prevalent bold geometric patterns while tartan checks, multi color stripes will be popular too. 4. Textile designs using flower, stripe, checks, dot, abstract pattern were applied to real model, the images of patterns design are as follow, flower pattern-romantic stripe-avantgarde check-cute dotclassic abstract motive-intelligent.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권10호
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.31-39
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze the general conditions of infants' apparel brands in Korea, review the sizes and specifications of each brand, analyze the differences and correlations among brands, and thereby, present the reasonable sizes and specifications for infants' apparels in consideration of domestic and foreign specifications and infants' health conditions. for this purpose, 13 brands manufacturing the apparels for the infants aged from 0 to 4 were sampled, and their design directors and outside pattern suppliers were surveyed through direct interviews. The collected data were processed for frequencies, mean, median and mode. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The sample infants' apparel brands were mostly launched as national brands in 1990's, while their target ages were diverse : 0 $\sim$ 72 months, 0 $\sim$ 36 months, 0 $\sim$ 48 months, 0 $\sim$ 60 months, 12 $\sim$ 24 months, etc. 2. More brands were restructuring the pattern suppliers' sizes and specifications rather than developing them directly, which suggests that most of infants' brands depend much on pattern suppliers. 3. Infants' apparel brands were presenting the 'space suites' sized from #60 to #90 because consumers prefer those space suites distinct in their upper and lower parts and convenient for their toddlers aged 36 months or older. The brands were setting the sizes for 6 parts: total length, breast, sleeve length, hip, hip height, leg. 4. The sizes for infants' one-pieces were #70, #75, #80, #85, #90, #95, #100, #110 and #120, while their subsizes were determined for 4 parts: total length, breast, sleeve length, hip.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.45-57
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• 2023

This research compared and analyzed a representative jacket pattern making method to suggest implications for the mass customization process of clothing. Four types of pattern making methods were selected according to the degree of reflection of human body measurements. Patterns were analyzed according to the size of middle-aged women. The results of this study are as follows. First, it identified and compared the difference in human body measurement and drafting processes required for pattern drafting. Next, as a result of analyzing the manuals and institutional figures presented in the pattern drafting manuals, problems such as B.P. location and compartment of the chest circumference, which are not appropriate, were found and the human body measurement method is different for each pattern making method. Through the above analysis, the advantages and disadvantages of the pattern making methods were identified and proposed improvements and implications for the application to the apaarel mass customization process were presented.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.211-223
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• 2018

In global apparel product development, flat is one of the most important key factor for technical design communication. Proportionally correct flats based on correct scaled human body figures are imperative to be successful in the fashion business. In this study the researchers were to develop body templates for flats for Korean women body types using data from 'Size Korea 2004 (5th)', which is a Korean government apparel sizing project to analyze women's body measurements (age range 7-49). We measured 13 height measurements, 6 width measurements, 8 circumference measurements, 6 length measurements, 3 angle measurements and 5 body measurements. A body figure (i.e., schema) for each group was created by Pattern Design Software (PAD) System 4.1. Muscle was added to the schema created by Adobe Illustrator to ensure a better visualization and convenience for industry uses for flats. Developed body figure template of representative type had the largest difference in height level compared to exiting figures. It had a bigger head, lower crotch level, and longer crotch depth and hip length than existing figures.