• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.115-128
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• 2011

Textile fabrication based on traditional culture has grown very attentive as fashion icons in recent so that designers, especially, who want to be the center of attention, may be a public interest and introduce their own culture to the world. In the 21st century by more focusing of our culture, Korean textile designs that is applicable our traditional motifs are required to develop and also its motifs could be comprehensibly got the spirit and the inherent meaning, and should be fuse with modern touch and developed practical design in daily life. Of all many different patterns, this paper placed an emphasis on three of main traditional motifs as a floral arabesque pattern, ivy pattern and butterfly pattern. The traditional motifs were applied through a hand-made technology and the professional design program of TexPro, and then the textile design was simulated by Photoshop to approaching the apparel design. Through these produced artworks, we have conscious that the oriental images have associate traditional meaning and the traditional design tried to express co-existence past and present. Moreover, we believe that the surface pattern design of textile for printing was good chance to relive the traditional meaning, and the tradition is recognized not mere old and expects more advance with applications.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.835-851
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• 2003

This study analyses patent information of apparel design using computer technology and researches the trend of patent application focused on International Patent Classification. In terms of trend by filling data, Patent application started first in 1974 and increased sharply in 1993 with 14 cases and increased to 25 cases in 2000. In case of Korea, they began somewhat late in 1996, but reached a similar level with the leading country in 2000. In terms of trend by applicant, Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. filed 7 cases TORAY IND INC, filed 6 cases Levi Strauss & Co. filed 4 cases, NEC HOME ELECTRONICS LTD filed 3 cases, TOYOBO CO LTD filed 3 cases. Japanese companies occupied 52% and United States's companies occupied 48%. In terms of trend by country, foreigner occupied 47% of the patents filed by United State. Japanese take up 10% of total patent of United States. Korean occupied 84% of total patent of Korea and foreigner, american occupied 16% of the patents filed by Korea. In regared to International Patent Classification, in the section level G filed 92 cases(53%). In class level, G06 marked the first place in United States, Japan, and Korea. In subclass level, G06F marksed the first place with 74 cases. G06T and A61B were regarded as the new technologies. The new technologies are representing the dimensions of garment or computer-rendered model, providing the virtual reality through the texture mapping, digital dressing room or virtual dressing, and performing or retriving display on a screen for the result of changing pattern ao dress design, The technologies of core patent are designing or producing custom manufactured item, providing or prealtering the data for pattern making and visually displaying, interactively generating or previewing of various articles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.99-108
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the middle-aged British women's apparel purchase behavior. The results of this study can be used to present the tendency of Korean middle-aged women's apparel purchase behavior when they become the old-aged by comparing and analyzing the British women's purchase behavior. We found that they prefer to choose and purchase their clothes by their own decision-making and search for actively the new brands for old age. Strong willingness was showed that their level of consumption amounts for clothing would be the same level between middle-aged and old-aged. It was also presented that they like to see a old-aged fashion model for fashion advertisement rather than a younger one and prefer to use the expression of 'mature' rather than a stereotypical expression such as a silver, gray and gold. The segmentation of fashion market by age can not be simply standardized. We expect that the propensity for clothing purchase behavior pattern of middle-aged women will not be changed and keep the same tendency by the time of their old-aged. We expect that this research results can be used as a basic material for another study and setting up the product developments and marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.303-311
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• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.390-400
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• 2019

A major factor in making current hospital gowns is how to manage patients from the standpoint of hospitals. This shows that hospital gowns have not been considered as an apparel for a specific purpose with a design that considers the psychological composure of patients. This study, along with a meticulous analysis of the pattern design of domestic hospital gown suggests a design philosophy that can be of emotional help to patients. The analysis of hospital gowns in terms of motif is that the corporate identity of the hospital in question, along with the lettering symbolizing the hospital is conspicuous. The motif shown in the pattern also has a brightness contrast and two-way pattern. This study suggests hospital gown patterns as follows. First, on the basis of color dynamics, utilize repetition arrangement, camaieu arrangement and faux camaieu arrangement. Second, make use of warm colors in order to enhance trust between patients and medical staff. Last, use green color as a dominant color for the hospital to be felt of as a convenient space. Utilizing these three factors in the future design of hospital gowns will assist in the development of new hospital gowns that render a psychological composure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.658-667
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were 'Works about Sample in Sample Development Process', 'Works about Product's Pattern and Size Spec', 'Works about Development of Garment's Design', 'Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock', 'Works about Production Process', and 'Preparation Works for Sample Development'. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product' size spec, which is included in works about product's pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.