• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.65-74
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends and characteristics of the anti-aesthetic shapes have been expressed in Fashion Show Make-up from 1995 to 2003 and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through various formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. Anti-aesthetics means the beginning of criticism that destroy the system of modernism and the anti-aesthetic shapes in Fashion Show Make-up have been distorted, deformed, destroyed through asymmetrical arrangement or abnormal transformation or extreme reduction or omission and so on. It means that is to enlarge the range of expressions through a new interpretation. The anti-aesthetic characteristics in Fashion Show Make-up can be summarized as Avant-garde, Satire, De-construction, Poverty, inhumanity and most of shapes show experimental techniques in unlimited method. The differences at the turning point in 21C is to increase the experimental attempts such as informal and collage and graphic Make-up and so forth.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2008

The current study aims to 1) investigate how fashion is perceived in societies that utopian novels were born and 2) what fashion means in utopian worlds by content analyzing two utopian novels, Thomas More�s Utopia and William Morris�N ews from Nowhere. The analyses of More�s Utopia and Morris�s News from Nowhere revealed that both utopian societies made corrections from our (imperfect) societies to increase happiness of people. Dresses of those two utopian societies were described as comfortable, pleasant, and attractive. There was a difference in design in that More considered simple and natural designs as the best whereas Morris considered human processed, labor intensive designs as the most attractive. However, fashion did not exist in either utopian world. It is reasonable to say that utopian societies were anti fashion in general due to the conflicting natures of fashion and utopia.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.129-146
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.166-182
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2009

This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.103-118
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to describe the central argument of postmodern theory ; pro-vide a central concept about postmodernism for fashion ; identify the signficance of open fashion in the 20th century. Postmodern is used to refer to a body of social theory, a style of aesthetic expression, and to various social practics and economic conditions. In this paper, postmodern theory is interpreted as an anti-aesthetics propesed by Derrida, Lyotard, Baudrillard, and Foster. The key principles and consepts of postmodern the-ory reflect and restate assumptions of nihilism influenced by the works of Nietzsche, being synonymous with the phrase philosophy of difference. The death of art, the end of progress, the will to the sublime, and the principle of pure difference support postmodern ideas, which could be the framework to interprete fashion phenomenon in postmodern condition.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.323-335
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• 1996

The objective of this treatise is to study the effect which rock'n'roll had on fashion through the fashion of rock'n'roll stars and contemporary youngsters. The United states of America in the 1950's when rock'n'roll came into existence was an opulent and luxurious period. People's spare time increased and teenagers who grew up in oppulence after World War II emlerged. It was rock'n'roll that comprised the background of their culture. Rock'n'roll music, which was in the mixed form of Negro's rhythm and blues, and country -and-western of Southern hillbilly Rock'n'roll was expressed as a 'culture', characterized by both the luxurious and oppulent culture and the'anti-establishment' defying it. This cultural characteristic emerged as at once the conservative fashion following the contemporary fashion and the anti-establishment fashion in the rock'n'roll fashion. Therefore, the rock'n'roll fashion influenced by popular music became one momentum of including popular music among factors affecting the twentieth-century modern fashion.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.53-67
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze anti-counterfeiting strategies of fashion firms in Korea. Data was collected by in-depth interviews for 25 fashion firms and 5 buying offices who had been victims of counterfeiting. The result showed that fashion firms recognized the counterfeiting, especially deceptive counterfeiting, as a serious problem in Korea and seek for stronger protection. Fashion firms adopted diverse strategies for the protection of trademark and for the protection of design； (1) Investigation and Surveillance, (2) Warning, (3) Prosecution, (4) Lawsuit, (5) Consumer education (6) High-tech tabooing, (7) Provide incentives, (8) Penalty, (9) Do nothing. Despite the diverse efforts, they proposed the most desirable strategies to deter the counterfeiting as the changes of consumer attitude and stronger legal protection.