• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.81-99
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• 2012

This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.563-582
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• 2018

In ancient times, hairstyle varies according to tribes. Because it is a social product that depends on status, class, and gender within the tribes, research on the hairstyle is an important source for studying the culture of the tribes. The purpose of this study is to analyze hairstyle of the Scythians and to understand the culture of the Scythians. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify the ethnic group based on this research. And it is intended to use the results as a comprehensive resource for research on the origins of Korean ancient costumes. As a research method, literature study and artifact analysis were performed concurrently. Data for artifact analysis were taken directly from the Eremitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the researcher visited for this study. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Hairstyle of the Scythians were classified into three types: straight hair, braided hair, and tied hair depending on social status, age, and region. Straight hair was usually seen with kings, royalty, and warriors, and the hair length varied according to their status. Braid hair appears by a depiction of an old man and young Scythians. Tied hair was observed in the warrior. The beard was divided into chin-beard and mustache. Long chin-beards and mustaches were mostly observed in the ruling classes, while medium length chin-beards and short mustaches were considered the most common form of beard because they appeared in most classes. The young Scythians, regardless of their status, had no beard.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.113-132
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• 2017

Several theories about the ancestry of the Khazars and the origins of the Khazar state have been suggested to date. None of them provides a comprehensive solution for the controversial data of the written sources on the early history of the Khazars. This article investigates a possible link between the title of Kagan-Bek of the Deputy Kagan of the Khazars and a similar title Ellac/Ilek of the Akatsir-Huns. This study of the title argues for statehood and political culture connections between the earliest Turkic tribes of Western Eurasia and the Khazars and Turks of Central Asia.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.41-54
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• 2005

The purposes of this study on various headgear at the age of the Persian Achaemenes are to analyze one cultural aspect of the Achaemenes Kingdom that made a great empire about 5th century B.C. and to understand the ancient Persian culture. It is widely recognized that the Persian region was an important place for cultural exchange between the East and the West through the Silk Road and its culture affected China and Korea. Therefore, it is necessary to study ancient culture in this region for further understanding of the Korean culture. However, research activities have not been satisfactorily conducted. This study is an attempt to elevate the interest in this subject. In this study, European archeological materials covering Naqsh-e-Rostam (a tomb of Darius), Apadana stairs, Darius palace in Persepolis, and Bistun(Behistun), the relief at the age of the Achaemenes Kingdom, were collected and analyzed. From this study, the following results were obtained. For crowns at the age of the Achaemenes Kingdom, two kinds of shapes are observed; Mitra, a kind of headband, in the early period and a cylindrical one in the later period. Mitra was also worn by chiefs trusted by the king. Further, slightly different styles of cylindrical crowns were observed, which is considered that kings might wear unique crowns to symbolize new period of their reign. In addition to crowns, various styles of headgear for subjects are observed, meaning that tribes conquered by the Persian empire used their unique headgear. Further, such different styles of headgear might be a tool for social classification. Representative styles of headgear include the semicircular one worn by the Median nobles, Strophion originated from the Elam's headband, and nomadic tribes' Baschlik observed in the Median relics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.138-150
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• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.163-173
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Ku which was worn by nomadic tribes which was Khitai, Mongols and Manchus. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were very important clothes that nomadic tribes put on in order to protect them against the cold. The Ku was an outfit for protection against the cold. It was made of ani-mal fur and its style was tight sleeve and long dress. 2. The Ku was worn in all social classes including emperor, nobles and the masses in ancient China and Asia dynasty. After the nomadic tribes estabilished dynasty in China the style of Ku was changed. All kinds of animal fur was used to make the Ku but the volume of fur, kinds and colors were classified severely by their social position. In Khitai dynasty the Ku was worn in same style. But the emperor wore the Ku of silver marten. The noble class wore the Ku of purple, black and blue marten and silver squirrel skin. The masses wore the Ku of the other colors marten, sheep, squirrel and dessert fox skin. In Mongol dynasty, the emperor wore the Ku of purple marten, silver squirrel, silver fox and black fox skin. The nobles wore the Ku of the other colors marten and squirrel. The masses wore the Ku of degraded animal fur. Before the Manchus estabilished the varient races dynasty in China, the rich man preferred the Ku of marten, squirrel, fox, goat furs. But the poorman preferred the Ku of cow, horses, pig, sheep, cat, dog, snake and deer skin. After the manchus conquered the China, the manners of dress were changed. Generally the fur did not appear in right side of garment, but high quality or noble fur appeared outside. Sometimes the inside or outside of Ku was made of silk fabrics and sleeves, neck-band was made of the high quality fur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

Long Sleeve Costume is often seen not only in ancient China but also in various neighboring places throughout the time. Costumes show the societies cultural preferences and values at that time, and Long Sleeve Costume is no exception. In my research, 1 focused on the time period from Han Dynasty to Tang dynasty in ancient China. During Han dynasty, Shenyl style robe(심의형 포) was widely worn, and it shows very little foreign cultural influence. For the period of Wei·Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, foreign aspects of costume started to show up Possibly due to the influence of Buddhism and influx of foreign tribes. For instance, it is not too difficult to find hufu (호복) as well as Shenyl style robe, and it appears this Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties may have been a transitional period of accommodating two cultures without complete merger. Now, when it comes to Tang dynasty, we observe a creation of new cultural form in costume after adopting exotic culture. Because Sh ny style robe. often observed for a long time in Chinese history, disappeared, and tuanling(단영) and fanling(번영) became the main stream in their costume style in Tang dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.712-722
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.1-24
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• 2023

The art of carpet weaving is the most habitual form of traditional art in Azerbaijan, it reflects a rich inner world and occupies a special place in the history of a national culture's development. The Azerbaijani carpet has always stood out for its plots, ornaments, compositions, and high quality and the Azerbaijani people, faithful to their spiritual values, have protected and developed it throughout the centuries. In this article, several Ganja-Gazakh-type carpets from the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum collection and their artistic and technical characteristics are discussed. Specimens of material, sacred language, and ornamentation are considered. The deepest meaning is embodied in tamga in particular. Tamga is a unique phenomenon serving as an amulet, lineage sign, and self-identification of Turkic peoples. The Gazakh carpets of the Ganja-Gazakh type cover the Gazakh region of Azerbaijan, the Borchali region of Georgia, and the Goycha Lake region of Armenia. Karapapakh Azerbaijani Turks have inhabited these areas since ancient times. Tarakama (nomads) are often equated with the name Karapapakh (black hat). One of the densely populated regions of Tarakama is Gazakh. Gazakh, Garagoyunlu, Salahli, Shikhli, Kamarli, Damirchilar, Gaymagli, Goycali, Daghkasaman, Oysuzlu, Gachagan, and pile carpets with different compositions are woven in the Gazakh carpet weaving center. Large, simple in form, step-shaped or hook-like medallions, horn-shaped patterns, animal images, and stamps with symbols of ancient Turkic tribes characterize the Gazakh carpet weaving group.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.37-49
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• 2003

In the oral literature of the Mongolians such as folk-tales, legend, epics, poetry, songs, riddles etc., there are endless examples describing various stories about the origin of the costumes, ornaments and accessories, or the way how they were designed and changed with the times and how they correspond with relevant customs, public rituals and etiquette in general. In this paper we argue that every piece of the Mongolian national costumes and wear in general has specific meaning and symbolism, which is still the miraculous universe waiting to be unveiled properly. As for the Mongolians, the costumes and accessories mean the treasury of intellectual culture of their own as well as their daily necessities of life. There are still many undiscovered features of ancient national culture, apart from characteristics of various tribes and clans of the Mongolians.