• 제목/요약/키워드: ancient hat

검색결과 36건 처리시간 0.026초

스칸디나비아의 민속의상(民俗衣裳)에 관한 연구(硏究) (A Study on the Folk Costume of the Scandinavia)

  • 원미향;유태순
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제2권4호
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    • pp.13-20
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    • 1998
  • Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

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관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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"개주"와 "군복"과 "융복"에 관한 연구 (A Study on the "Kea Ju", "Goon Bok" and "Yoong Bok")

  • 임명미
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제3권1호
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    • pp.31-47
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    • 1979
  • 1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.

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동슬라브민족의 여성 두식에 관한 연구 (A Comparative Study of Hedgear among the Eastern Slavs)

  • 조우현
    • 복식
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    • 제50권
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    • pp.33-50
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    • 2000
  • A comparative and an analysis of the resemblance and the particularity of the women's headgear which has been developed in accordance with each of climate and historical beck ground of the Eastern Slavs: the Russians the Belarusians and the Ukrainians those are deeply influenced by the culture of costume of the Scythians which is considered as the origin of the Koreans culture of costume is presented in this study. A well-known Russian ethnographer D. K. Jelenin classifies the women's head gear of the Eastern Slavs as a platok a chepetch a shapka and a unmarried women's venetch by its structural figure. Those 4 kinds of head gears are the basic head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman. However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of each nations show us that they have been developed differently not only by the climatic and the geological influences but also by the influence of their historical background. Furthermore we could realize that the Eastern Slavs had classified a person's social position and a standing in family members by the head gear. The incantational and the religious meanings of the hair styles and the head gears are shown in this paper. For instance they has been considered that a married woman without a hat is a disgrace and it even affects to the harvest. Even they believed that a corn styled Russian woman's hat named "Roga" protects a mother and her baby from the evil spirit. It seems that such a ethnographical culture is caused by their own faith of Russian orthodox and a non-Christian ancient religious culture of those regions.

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Studies in Iron Manufacture Technology through Analysis of Iron Artifact in Han River Basin during the Proto-Three Kingdoms

  • Kim, Soo-Ki
    • Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.9-22
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    • 2012
  • The most widely excavated iron artifacts used as weapons or farm tools from central southern regions of Korea were subjects of non-metallic inclusion analysis through metallographic examination, microhardness measurement, and scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy. Through metallographic interpretation and study of the analyzed results, the steel manufacturing and iron smelting using heat processing in the iron artifacts excavated from the central southern region of the ancient Korean peninsula was studied, and the analysis of the non-metallic inclusions mixed within the metallic structures was interpreted as the ternary phase diagram of the oxide to infer the type of iron ores for the iron products and the temperature of the furnace used to smelt them. Most of the ancient forged iron artifacts showed $Al_2O_3/SiO_2$ with high $SiO_2$ contents and relatively low $Al_2O_3$ contents for iron ore, indicating t hat for $Al_2O_3$ below 5%, it is presumed that magnetic iron ores were reduced to bloom iron (sponge iron) with direct-reduction process for production. The temperature for extraction of wustite for $Al_2O_3$ below 1% was found to be $1,020{\sim}1,050^{\circ}C$. Considering the oxide ternary constitutional diagram of glassy inclusions, the steel-manufacturing temperature was presumed to have been near $1,150{\sim}1,280^{\circ}C$ in most cases, and minimum melting temperature of casting iron part excavated in Daeseong-ri. Gyeonggi was near $1,400^{\circ}C$, and it is thought that hypoeutectic cast iron of about 2.3% carbon was casted and fragility of cast iron was improved by decarburizing in solid state.

현대 패션에 나타난 가면의 형태와 특성 (The Styles and Characteristics of Masks as Expressed in Modern Fashion)

  • 김선영
    • 복식
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    • 제58권4호
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    • pp.13-25
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    • 2008
  • This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.

선사시대(先史時代)에 있었을 우리 민족복식(民族服飾)을 생각하며 (Conjectual Study on Korean Costume in the Prehistoric Period)

  • 유희경
    • 복식
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    • 제5권
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    • pp.7-11
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    • 1981
  • In the vast extent of time, man and his ancestors have existed on earth about 2,000,000 years. For Near-Man, they knew how to make fire and protected themselves with hairs. Old-Man covered their bodies with the skins of wild animals. New Man improved the quality, the range and ingenuity, so they fabricated clothes with the animal skins. New Man is considered as ancestor of Modern Man. They had spread widely over the earth to take advantage of their surroundings. The next period, New Stone Age was chiefly distinguished by agricultural age. He was now about to make clothes from natural fibers. The two most obvious orgins of clothing are to protect the body against environment and to decorate the body. The forms of clothing were different from the various climates and regions they had settled, for example Yo-po Hyung (Apron), Kwae-po Hung (Sewn garment), Kwan-doo Hyung (Poncho), Chun-kae Hyung (Frontopend garment), Chai-hyung Hyung (Body-conforming shape). Our ancestor had moved from Baikal Lake, Central Asia toward northeast; Shun-tung in China, Manchuria and at last Han Panninsula. Considering our basic costume of ancient times were Yu(jacket), Ko(trousers), Sang(skirt), Po (coat) with the accessories of Kwan (crown), Mo (hat), Dai (belt), Hwa, Eie (footwear), here I conjecture our costume of prehistoric period was Chaihyung Hyung(Body-conforming shape) in the purpose of body covering.

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아프라시압 궁전벽화를 활용한 문화콘텐츠 개발 방안 연구 (A Study on the Development of Cultural Contents based on the Mural Painting of Afrasiab Palace)

  • 박가영;이경주;정대율
    • 예술인문사회 융합 멀티미디어 논문지
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    • 제9권2호
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    • pp.481-491
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    • 2019
  • 고대에서 중세에 이르기까지 동서양의 문화가 교차하던 실크로드의 중심에 위치한 우즈베키스탄 사마르칸트에서 아프라시압 궁전지벽화가 1960년대 발굴되어 학계의 주목을 받아왔다. 특히, 7C 소그디아나 왕국 바르후만 왕의 즉위식이 그려진 서벽에서 고대 한국인으로 추정되는'조우관'을 쓴 두 인물이 발견되어 당시 국제적 정세와 문화적 특징을 살필 수 있는 중요한 사료로 활용되고 있다. 현재 아프라시압 역사박물관에 소장되어 있는 이 벽화는 사방으로 각기 다른 내용의 그림이 그려져 있고, 그것만이 가진 문화적 특성과 요소들이 내재되어 있음에도 불구하고 이를 활용한 스토리텔링과 문화콘텐츠의 개발은 없었다. 따라서 본 연구의 목적은 고대 한국인이 그려진 아프라시압 궁전지 벽화의 서벽 그림을 기반으로 한 문화콘텐츠와 캐릭터 개발과 활용방안을 모색하고자 한다. 이를 위하여 직접 현장을 방문하여 조사한 자료는 물론이며 기타 관련 학술자료들을 수집하였다.

경주황성동고분출토(慶州隍城洞古墳出土) 토용(土俑)의 복식사적의미(服飾史的意味) (A STUDY ON THE COSTUME REPRESENTED IN CLAY FIGURES HWANGSUNG-DONG BURIAL TOMB)

  • 구인숙
    • 복식
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    • 제13권
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    • pp.21-37
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    • 1989
  • In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

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조선시대 펠트(Felt) 사용범위와 특성 (The Usage and Feature in Joseon Dynasty's Felt)

  • 민보라;홍나영
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제32권10호
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    • pp.1559-1570
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    • 2008
  • Since brought into from the economic life of nomads, the felt, the target of this study, has been developed in various ways of giving the functions of class symbol as well of protection against the cold and of ornamentation. Therefore, the study on how the felt was developed in Joseon Dynasty and how different culture from nomadic tribes it formed is significant in comprehensively under,;landing the economic, social and natural environmental factors in the Dynasty. The felt named "Jeon" has been constantly appearing in Korea from the ancient time, but it was not produced actively in the early part of Joseon Dynasty. That's why it was not a climatic condition suitable for sheep-breeding, and the government managed sheep-breeding but it aimed primarily at not producing clothing materials but having memorial ceremonies. Since sheep-breeding was not widely spreaded, production of Jeon was limited and some part was imported from China, so it was one of rare valuable goods. Therefore, the felt of wools named "Yangmojeon", the colored felt named "Chaejeon", etc. were used as liking items in the high-class society, and their materials and components were a little different depending on the official post. On the other hand, people in the low-class society used to wear the felt hats made of cattle feathers and miscellaneous fur, named "Jeonlip" and "Beougeoji". Since the middle of Joseon Dynasty, use of the felt was divided into two groups according to the users and the function, along with successful spreading of cotton and development of market economy. The function of Jeon to protect against the cold was replaced by cotton, but the felt hats of Beongeoji, Jeonlip, etc. were worn by common people continuously. As seen above, it is considered that the felt culture in Joseon Dynasty was formed very differently from the nomadic culture, because of its historical and sociocultural characteristics, and it had unique developing progress among all available fabrics.