• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2018

This study focuses on the correlation between Kotgal and paper-folding. This paper first examines the meaning and history of Korean ancient Kotgal and then investigates relationship between Kotgal and Korean paper-folding culture which has been inherited in various ways. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, it has been told that Kotgal was used a as a trident hat symbolizing the sky, land, and man, whereas Korean paper-folding is known as closely related to the folk beliefs which had existed since ancient times. From ancient times, the Korean ancestors expressed the Three Gods representing beauties of the nature, 'sky(Chun), land(Ji) and man(In)' on the conical hat and prayed for their wish to the heaven. Second, Kotgal has been evolved in various ways from ancient times through Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty to present. The form of Kotgal has begun with folding and this is closely related to the origin of Korean paper-folding, which is the Korean traditional craft. Third, the paper-folding tradition of Korea has been variously applied in the Korean culture such as rituals, life crafts and plays and expresses the unconventional philosophical concepts unique of Korea. In conclusion, this study evidently shows that the Korean philosophical ideas behind Kotgal which originated from ancient paper-folding are scientific and systematic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 1995

This study is concerned with the julpoong of Koguryo. The meaning, form, structure, user, the origin of the word the julpoong were examined. The pien of he ancient China and the julpoong of Koguryo were examined. The result of the analysis of this study is as follows. The Chinese and the people of Koguryo used the meanings of the julpoong differently : the Chinese referred the julpoong to the conical hat with the seams including one seam on it, while the people of Koguryo called the julpoong as the conical hat with seams excluding one seam on it. the people of Koguryo called the julpoong with one seam as the chack . The julpoong was used by all people of Koguryo : the government officials, envoys, and the commoners wore it. The word julpoong of Koguryo was derived from dulband, dulband, dubend, dolband of Persians. the word julpoong is correspondent with the above the persian words. The julpoong of Koguryo word was transliteration of dulband(dulband, dulbend, dolband) meaning turban or sash. The hat called chack by the people of 고구려 was the conical hat with one sea and their meaning of he chack was different from the meaning of the chack of the Chinese. The julpoong a kind of conical hat, was called by the pine by the ancient Chinese.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.778-789
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• 2012

The characteristics of ancient gagye (the cubic hair style which added wigs or other materials to hair) that appeared in mural paintings were compared between Pyongyang and Jian in Goguryeo and the midlands, the northwest region, and the northeast region in China for the same period (Han to Weijin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties). Gagye in Korea and China was classified into circle type, hat type, high-bun type, and multi-bun type; in addition, Han elements, northern race elements, Goguryeo elements, and uniqueness were compared and analyzed according to regional distribution, trend periods, and style characteristics. The Han elements of ancient gagye in Korea and China appeared in the hat type, the high-bun type, and accessories that left the hair down. The northern race elements were found in the circle type and multi-bun type. The uniqueness of Goguryeo elements included a circle from the circle type, a triangle style from the hat type, an up-do style from the high burn type, and simplified hair accessories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.57-69
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.61-77
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• 2018

The primary focus of this thesis is to look at Scythai's historical, geographical and ethnologic background in order to understand Scythai's garment types and styles as described in Scythai-related documented records, previous studies and excavated artifacts. Based upon this, another objective lies in comparing and contrasting this information with ancient Korean garments to identify what kind of relationship exists between the two. The result from this study's objectives is summarized as follows. Firstly, ancient Korean and Scythai share similarities in art work, craftwork, accessories and the like, which allows us to make a guess at the relationship between ancient Korea and Scythai of that time. Secondly, Scythai garments are based on the tight and well-fitted Caftan Yugoje, which is tightly fit to the body, as well as including garments similar to the drapery Kiton and Tunic found in ancient Greek garments, from which can be seen that the garment of culture medium passing between the East and the West had nomadic horse-riders' ethnic characteristics and Eurasian characteristics. Thirdly, ancient Korean Scythai garments were found to have homogeneity in their garment culture in that northern nomadic cultural district's Hobok-Goseupje, i.e., open-front Caftan Jeogori and pants called Sangeuihago is its basic with a triangular cone hat shape (transformed hat) and boots, which is the basis for considering that ancient Korea exchanged culture with Scythai, who once lived as active northern nomads. However, it can also be seen that ancient Korea and Scythai garments differed in form depending on region, weather, culture, custom and the like. As such, Scythai and ancient Korea have an aesthetic bond because northern nomads and Scythai exchanged their cultural traits of the times. The evidence supports this idea as it seems that the characteristics of garments that can be considered to be Scythain in style are also commonly discovered in ancient Korean garments.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.3-20
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• 2022

The origins of the world-recognized Korean gat can be traced back to Gojoseon, and the jades for the sangtu and gwanja come from Hongshan culture. This study examines the etymology of the hat, the symbolism of the gat and the jade comb, and the history of the development of the accessories for the hat. The research methods of literature review, investigation of relics and murals, and analysis of cases of pronunciation changes were used. Most of the relics excavated from the Hongshan are identical to those excavated from Korea. The Byun-Khan people wore a triangle-shaped conical hat (the byun), which was shaped to fit the protruding sangtu hairstyle, with a foldable brim that, if pulled downward, changed the hat to a gat. The Chu sangtu, a pointed top-knot hairstyle, is uniquely found among Northeast Asian peoples, and it is an ethnic symbol for Koreans. Until the modern period, many Koreans wore their hair in the sangtu style, indicating their descent from the sky. Jade combs shaped like birds and clouds from the Hongshan period emphasized the religious nature and ceremony of hair styling at that period. The word hat is widely used to refer to gat all over the world. The pronunciation of ㄱg, ㅎh. and ㅋq/kh are closely related to each other, and the ancient pronunciation ㄱg gradually evolved to ㅎh or ㅋq/kh. The English 'Hat' and Korean 'Gat' were transformed from the middle-ancient sound 'gasa > gosa > got' of the crown 'gwan, gokkal'. This creative hair style culture that started from the Hongshan culture continued to be fashionable during the Gojoseon Dangun period, and the decoration techniques for hats and accessories were inherited over time and continuously developed. Along with the method of making gat, creative hair-related parts, such as manggeons, donggot pins, gwanja buttons, and fine combs were developed over the course of a thousand years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.123-138
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• 2011

This study examined how Chipogwan[緇布冠] with such a long history has been changed in China and Korea. With regard to the name, material, use and form of Chipogwan, the results of this study is summarized as follows. Chipogwan was mentioned continuously in ancient books of ceremonies and literature from the Tang dynasty [唐代], but from the Song dynasty [宋代] new name Chigwan [緇冠: a black hat] appeared besides Chipogwan. The two names were transmitted to Joseon dynasty [朝鮮] and used together until the mid Joseon dynasty, but from the 18th-19th centuries, Chipogwan was adopted according to ancient ceremonies and this name has been used continuously until today. The change of the name reflects the change of the material. Ancient Chipogwan was made of hemp [布] but when the term Chigwan appeared in the Song dynasty it was made of paper and Sa [紗: a 2-end simple gauze]. As other materials were added to hemp, po (布) was omitted from Chipogwan. As to the use of Chipogwan, it was a coronet used in purification ceremonies [齋冠] in ancient times. Then, it was used as Chogagwan [初加冠: a first hat putting on] in coming-of-age ceremonies [冠禮] from Zhou dynasty (周). During the Song and Joseon dynasty, Chipogwan was used in coming-of-age ceremonies as well as in daily life. As to the form, Chipogwan in ancient books of rites and the Song dynasty was a small coronet covering the topknot. In the Joseon dynasty, the form of Song dynasty was followed until the mid period, and then after the mid $18^{th}$ century, another form was proposed according ancient books of rites and an independent form of ceremonial coronet appeared that covered the entire head rather than covering only the topknot.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.250-258
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace and to identify the meaning of jeobli接籬. This word is found as one of the early costume terminologies of China. later the jeobli was introduced to Koguryo. The jeobli of China and Koguryo were included in this study. Sources of information for this research were collected from the written records including visual information from ancient paintings and tumb paintings as well as figurins. The results of important findings and conclusions of this study can be summerized as follows: It was found that the jeobli 接籬 was synonymous with the cheobli 睫離. Also it appeared that it was called baikrosa. It revealed that the word jeobli had different meanings. first, ti was the name of a white hat which was worn by the people of Chin dynasty. It was a white felt hat made of white great plumes and feathers. Second, it was a dialect for maqna, a kind of a veil which was worn by the women of the Northern dynasty. That, it meant the chaikkun, a kind of knot coverings. The jeobli, a kind of a white felt hat, was also used by the people of Koguryo. The jeobli of Koguryo was made of the pig hair from Malgal. It is considered that he shape of this white hat seems to be a kind of conical hat. Also, it was fond that the jeobli as the meaning of chaik kun was worn by the people of Kogure. it was a small white square hat. It was worn by the nobles.