• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.237-246
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• 1981

This is a report of author's stay in the U.S. as an exchange scholar. During her stay from Dec. 1979 to Dec. 1980, she participated in costume studies at Pratt Institute, New York City and looked into materials of North Asian historical costumes. The author notes that the curriculum of costume studies in the U.S. place weight upon costume history, e.g., the master's program in costume studies of New York University requires 18 points in history courses out of 54 points required for the degree. The author also notes the leading role of the Costume Institute, the Metropolitan Museum of Arts in performing research works for the studies. As to the study of North Asian costumes, the author's work in the U.S. has been somewhat disappointing. She points out difficulties for a Korean researcher to access to basic materials which are scarce outside of China and Russia. She asserts, however, the comprehension of the history of North Asian costumes as a whole is essential to understand the characteristics of ancient Korean costumes. The author insists the costume history courses in Korean colleges are not appropriate as a apart of costume studies. Noting the costume education in the U.S. clearly aims at the training of costume professions, the author proposes the objective of costume education in Korea be redefined, and the teaching of "History of Korean Costumes" be reconstituted as to be suitable for it.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.7-16
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• 1993

Influnced by the official uniform system of China, the colour culture of Korea has changed with time. The ancient colour has included the philo-sophical conception as well as the meaning of thoughts. Forming its tradition, the colour has been accepted in usual life. The philosophy of the Five Element has been developed in the area of Oriental culture and it has influnced to the colour of costume. The five colours(blue, red, yellow, white and black) as the Five Elements colours have disticted the social position. Owing to the fackt, the colour costume has preserved the important meaning. In accordance with the theory of the Five Elements the five colours of costume told its purpose, social position and age. Moreover the relationship among the Five Elements, the direction and the reason have been applied to it with time. Yellow and red have been usually used by kings and high ranking officals, white has been the basic colour for traditional Korean clothes, which hs indicated the integrity symbolizing our race. The Five Elements Colours preserving the theory of Korean the Five Elements have been the conception of Korean traditional colour and they have been developing as the meaning of custom.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.117-137
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• 2011

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-ju(細), Si(總)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東弟] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史)of Japan from the $4^{th}$ century to the early $10^{th}$ century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the $8^{th}$ century and Sllla(新羅) of the $9^{th}$ century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the $10^{th}$ century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the $7^{th}$ century and it was rapidly spread in the $8^{th}$ century. In the $9^{th}$ century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(細) and Si(總)in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the $8^{th}$ century to the $9^{th}$ century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the $9^{th}$ century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early $8^{th}$ century. As the foreign relation between Sllia and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-$8^{th}$ century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1985

RESULTS : Considering the archaeological evidences, it is velieved that the southern culture centered in KuSu and the Nothern Culture centered in the centeral Japan, specially at the estern Japan, existed together with the culture come through the southern regions and northern regions of Japanese Islands in Jomon Culture and Yayoi Culture period. As the center of territory moved from KuSu to GiNae in Tumulus Culture period, two-pieced style of the northern people who have already there became prevalent. The costume of Tumulus Culture period was developed from the coexistence f southern style and northern style to the merge of the two styles by the nomads come from Korean Peninsula. The riding costume was propagated by Koreans, and the style used in Korean Peninsula was more deeply influenced to the costume of the ruling class. The costume of Asuka Culture and MakuHo Culture period succeeds the costume of Tumulus Culture period without wide difference. But the costume of Korean Peninsula lied more deeply as the root of Japanese Costume. While the costume of the ruling class was changed into Tang's style, the costume of the masses was under the influence of the costume of Korean Peninsula. It became the base of current Japanese Folk Costume.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.96-107
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• 2012

In ancient times, immigrants from Baekje wore various kinds of costumes that provided technological and aesthetic guidance for the Japanese costume, which has been modified and changed in Japan. The clothing and ornaments were strongly influenced directly by costumes of the Baekje period; therefore, many of the Japanese costumes at that time were crafted in the Baekje style. Through the antique records, paintings of tombs and bequests, we were able to find similarities between Baekje and Japan costumes in these categories: clothes, headgear, belt hooks and belt plaques, bronze shoes, and ornaments. (1) Clothes : They wore high-shaped hat and jacket and trousers(;袴) tied the bottom. (2) Headgear : There was a gilt bronze Conical Cap attached to the long tube with terminals in the shape of a hemisphere. (3) Belt hooks and belt plaques: There were horse-shaped belt hooks in mane styles and a checkered pattern on the lower part of the haunch and a belt Plaque shaped like the face of an animal. (4) Gilt bronze shoes: They were made with the style that had two side plates fixed in the instep side and heel-side. (5) Ornaments : They were made with flower-shaped plaques and spiral-shaped decorations. One earring was made with a three-winged pendent that were connected in a chain style and the others were in unique forms that were made by connecting narrow rings and a heart-shaped pendent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.79-97
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• 2008

This paper is a study on the Bisotun relief of the Achaemenid Dynasty in ancient Persia. The Bisotun relief consists of the relief and the inscriptions which was completed through 7 phases. The inscriptions describe how King Darius suppressed the rebels in Elamite, Babili and ancient Persian languages. This relief is a work during the early Darius period and it describes using the traditions of Mesopotamia in terms of the theme and structure. In terms of structural features, it follows the typical features of the Assyrian arts, the beard and the shape of hair style. On the other hand, the smooth curves used to describe the creases of the clothes and the supple body was not a typical oriental feature. It was known to be because of Greek influence from their communications. It also showed the dressings of the clans that made up the Achaemenid Dynasty through the 9 rebellions wearing clothes unique to their clan and the inscription that was inscribed with the name of the clans. The clothing and ornaments they were wearing can be divided into two groups, the clans that wore one-piece style Persian dress and clans that wore tunic jackets and trousers which is a typical dressing style of the nomads.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2017

This study researched transition process of fur costume from ancient times to 20th century, extracted esthetic characteristics, and then understood how the esthetic characteristics appear in the recent fur collection. The result is as follows. First, magical meaning was revealed on leopard fur that ancient chief priests wore on top of shenti to symbolize immorality and fur tunics to which christian symbol was added in Byzantine. During middle age and the Renaissance, extravagance appeared on sable and amin jackets that the noble decorated to show off their high status. During the rococo age and mid-20th century, sensuality and elegance appeared on the fur dresses that the female body was emphasized. Second, in recent collection, extravagance appeared on over-sized and voluminous fox-coat, sexsuality and elegance were revealed through mink-dresses and jackets with soft touch and gloss that curved-silhouette was emphasized. In addition, practicality and functionality were shown through short length and light, soft material, and activeness was in the mink jacket to which functional elements such as zippers and rubber were added. To pursue uniqueness and fun, fox jackets were made with over-sized vivid green color. Besides, abnormality and vulgarness appeared through the fashion with abnormal and distracted images with ambiguous forms and new processing methods applied.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.283-292
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• 2002

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

Cloths wrapped around the body have been the basis of the dress of people all over the world for centuries. This study is to research detailed modifiable fashion styling methods in history and to give ideas to people such as fashion professionals who are interested in fashion styling so that they can create modifiable fashion styling easily in fashion fields. The characteristics of modifiable fashion styling methods from ancient to middle ages are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is to expose the knots on the surface of the garments, and the knots were mainly located on the upper part of the body. The second method is a wrapping type of the modifiable styling method, which shows a lot of variant simple shapes of cloths. This method helped develop many wrapping methods over time. The third way is the fixed type of the modifiable styling method, and it uses accessories such as fibulae, belts to fix cloths, to create many different styles. The accessories are located on around either the neck or waist. The fourth method is the composite type of the modifiable styling methods mentioned above. This styling method is adapted in robe type clothes which makes the clothes look full of beautiful drapery. This study suggests that simple shapes of cloths can create enormous amount of styling which can be easily adapted and created nowadays.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.945-956
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• 2001

The costume for gods in the Ancient Roman myth was studied by examining in the embossed-carving, sculptures, mural-painting and various documents of the period. The clothes item, hairstyle, symbol & ornaments and shoes of the gods in the Roman myths were analyzed to understand the formative process in the religious costumes, and results are as follows. First, the costumes for male gods are the same as those for ordinary men lived in ages, including toga, paludamentum, tebenna, tunica. The costumes for female gods are also the same as those for ordinary women lived in ages, including stola, palla, tunica. Second, the hairstyle of male gods is short curled-hair, twisty roll-up hair and braid long-hair due to the influence of Etrurian in the early days. Another hairstyle is appeared in form of the laurelled-crown. The hairstyle of female gods is curled long-hair, chignon style and braid roll-up hair decorated with hairband. Third, the symbol & ornaments which represent the responsible possession of male gods, are appeared in beard, a stick of the message, arrow-case, offering-dish, antlered-glass, shield, spear-handle, as the superhuman forms, such as the lightning shape. For female gods they are is appeared plastron, a stick of the message, flower. some female gods wear necklace, foot-ring, bracelet. Fourth, male gods wear shoes in forms of sandal, buskin, boots, but all female gods are in barefoot. It could be explained by the fact that a man-centered society in the ancient roman is reflected in the world of gods. As mentioned, Gods costume in Roman myths was very similar to or nothing different from the ordinary peoples in Rome. However, they used corps, sacrifices or sepcific symbols depending on the fields that they were responsible for in order to be distinguished from the ordinary people. This is the result from the peoples expression that they should keep a close relationship with Gods hoping to be protected, and rely on them under whatever circumstances.