• Title/Summary/Keyword: ancient costume

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A Study on the Ancient Korean Adornment in Goguryeo Mural Paintings (고구려고분벽화에 나타난 우리나라 고대 장식(粧飾)에 관한 연구)

  • 김영재
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 2002
  • This article is to study the ancient Korean make-up based on ancient men's and women's facial decoration. The adornment is mainly about make-up, but I didn't employ make-up in this article on the ground that it isn't an appropriate concept in men's case. The study on the ancient Korean make-up has been conducted on the basis of Goguryeo mural paintings excavated in the tombs. Contrary to the Baekje and the Silla Kingdoms, Goguryeo women's make-up carne to fashion like China. The Goguryeo mural paintings depicted women's make-up which painted their faces white and lined on the eyebrows to make them raise toward their foreheads after removing their own eyebrows. They outlined their mouths smaller than their own and, in some occasions, applied make-up differently on the upper lip and the lower lip. As the time passed by, women applied the blusher, which attests to the fact that make-up of those days was considerably developed. Unlike women, men didn't put on cosmetics but they grew beard as a symbol of adults. The beard had a diversity in shape such as goat-shaped and fan-shaped beards. It can be understood that women's make-up was applied as a manifestation of adults like men's growing beards.

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Appraisal of the Period and the Place of Production for Earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea (한국 고대 귀걸이 감정을 위한 착안점 - 제작지와 연대를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Han-Sang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.35-50
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    • 2008
  • People in the Ancient Society of Korea liked golden earrings. The Royal Family or the nobility wanted to make more splendorous golden earrings in order to display their high-ranking positions. However, appearances or production methods of golden earrings differ a little by countries, for example, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje, Gaya, etc. Therefore, by closely examining articles discovered from tombs, we can know which country they were from. In particular, earrings of Goguryeo and Silla are similar to each other while those of Baekje and Gaya are similar. This would be closely related with political relationships between the two countries. The shape of golden earrings in the middle of the $5^{th}$ century A.D. is relatively simple. However, since the latter half of the $5^{th}$ century, golden earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea changed in the direction of long length or significantly splendorous surface decoration. Accordingly, we can estimate the period of production by analyzing golden earrings discovered from a tomb. In addition, the above trend was common all the earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea, which implies that each nation closely exchanged reciprocally at that time.

A Study on the Costume Represented in Clay Figures of Ancient Shilla Dynasty (고신라기 토우에 나타난 복식 연구)

  • 권준희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.4
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    • pp.57-69
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.

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A study on Furs and Feltry from Ancient to Koryo Korea (고대부터 고려까지 모피물에 관한 고찰)

  • 이춘주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.193-204
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    • 1994
  • In this study the characteristics of Korean furs and peltry were discussed in the terms of usage and kinds from the literature survey of the relevant references, The following con-clusions were deduced. From Ancient to Koryo a kind of acient of Korea a lot of furs and peltry were produced and dressed. The leopad of Gochosun Korea was worthy of gold as an expensive goods to China. red dyed pelt of Silla Korea was traded with China and that pelt dyeing tech-nology of that pelt developed. The marten of Koryo was trade to Arabia and an otter skin to Kum Dynasty as loved goods. Korean furs and peltry made a reputation and were used for trading goods with China Japan and Arabia. Tratment technology in Korea became known to foreign country. There is another record that sheep and camels were offered to Koryo by around countries, And that Koryo employed men of Kum Dynasty as a shepherd. From ancient to Koryo Korea had had many kinds of furs of peltry as using goods such as leopard mart otter skin panther bear, manchurian wapili, fox, porpoise rat, mankey, horse, pig, wild bear, goat, cow, cat, dog, tiger, deer, raccoon dog and so on.

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A Study on the Wadding Veil (Kyung) (景.景衣에 관한 연구)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2002
  • Kyung(景, 景衣), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China. When dynasty is changing. wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(景) was sleeves attached dress form. But. after Dang(唐) and Song(宋) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. In Japan. after Edo Dynasty, Wedding veil, which was sleeves attached dress formed, head dress cloth. Mouei(帽衣). and Piuei(被衣). Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(面衣). from Buyo(夫餘) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(高麗) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(蒙首), and Kedu(蓋頭). When Chosen(朝鮮) Dynasty, Kyunguei(景衣), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, go to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(景衣), in the papanquin.

A Study on the Aesthetic Conciousness through the Costumes of Ancient Egypt (고대 이집트 복식에 표현된 미의식의 고찰)

  • 최해주
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.11-22
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    • 1982
  • The creation of clothing is a form of aesthetic expression through which feelings and ideas are conveyed. This study tried to find out the mental world and aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt through the costume of the period. The beauty of human body was esteemed and expressed in body exposure, tight costumes and transparent fabrics. Through the silhouette of costume, wig and accessories, the beauty of simplicity was expressed. And the beauty of harmony was sought through the beauty of balance and emphasis. The aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt is the refined elegance and it was composed on the basis of the ideas of nature worship and had been preserved by the spirit of traditionism for about 3, 000 years.

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Ancient Korean Costume Speculated on the Samguk-yusa (三國遺事)

  • Kang, Min-Hye;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.37-49
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    • 2010
  • The Samguk-yusa(三國遺事) is one of the two classics of Korean ancient history together with the Samguk-sagi(三國史記); however there has not been any positive attempt to analyse clothing culture centering on the Samguk-yusa until now. Thereupon, this study aims to find the records related to fabrics, color and fashion appearing in the Samguk-yusa, and to analyse the fashion culture of the three kingdoms projected in the Samguk-yusa, referring to the Samguk-sagi and ancient Chinese reference books. According to the records in the book, the fabrics used for clothing of those days included Jikgeum-wimun(織錦爲紋), Geum(錦), Chaebaek(彩帛), Osaek-geumchae(五色錦彩), Geumbaek(錦帛), Geumsam(錦衫), Ma(麻), Neung(綾), Geum-su-neung-ra(錦繡綾羅), Poh(布), Daecho, Bira-geumjeom(緋羅金點), Gyeon(絹). Japchoe(雜綵), Robtyeom(羅緋染). Chimilpoh(緻密布), Gi(綺) and Whan(紈), and they had colors such as brown black(緇), black(黑), purple(紫), yellow(黃), blue(碧), clear white(素), white(白), five colors(五色). There is substantial amoung of report on Buddhism, and the terms used for Buddhist clothing included Beobeui(法衣), Nabeui(衲衣), Bangpoh(方袍), Gasa(袈裟) and Yueui(由衣). It is also ascertained that Gasa had a variety of Bira-geumjeom-gasa(緋羅點袈裟), Manap-gasa(摩納袈裟) and Geumra-gasa(金羅袈裟).

A Study on the AncientJade by Analyzing 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang' Recorded in 『Zhouli』 (『주례(周禮)』에 기록된 고옥(古玉) '규(圭)·벽(璧)·황(璜)'에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Na Na;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.4
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    • pp.102-115
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    • 2017
  • This study aims to investigate the role and function of costume in the ancient society by analyzing the jade decorations, 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang,' recorded in "Zhouli". The method of study consisted of researching the record book "Zhouli" and comparing the antiquities with the images of the jades. Firstly, the jade decorations were different depending on class. The class system in Zhou dynasty was made up of 6 grades - emperor, duke, marquis, count, viscount, and baron. The jade decorations used by people in these grades were called 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang'. Secondly, this study grasped the system of 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang.' It identified 7 types of duties by matching the decorations on the jade to specific institutions. 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang' played a huge role in forming and maintaining to order and system during the chaotic Zhou dynasty. In addition, it became an essential part of understanding status, society, and political structure within a family power structure.

A Study on the Development of Jeogori's Structure and Changes of its Form -Focused on the Era of the Three Kingdoms to United Shilla Era (저고리 세부 구조의 발생과 그 형태 변화에 대한 연구)

  • Chae Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.1 s.91
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    • pp.113-128
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    • 2005
  • To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.