• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2002

Kyung(경, 경의), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China, When dynasty is changing, wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(경) was sleeves attached dress form. But, after Dang(당) and Song(송) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(면의). from Buyo(부여) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(고려) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(몽수), and Kedu(개두). When Chosun(조선) Dynasty, Kyunguei(경의), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, so to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(경의) , in the papanquin. and take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also Chosun dynasty has been another Queen's wedding ceremonial veil 'myunui (면의)'. It has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Juckui(적의) . And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also. common people has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Youmui(염의). And. take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also common people has been put on the Mongsuui(몽수의,장의). head dress with ceremonial dress round neck dress. And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.157-173
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• 2013

In the pleats of the statue in the ancient Greece, a vivid expression is included about clothing, which has organic relationship with a human body. This study examined about diverse expressions of pleats that were shown in the Greek sculpture, based on understanding about a pleat meaning and function, and clothes. As a result, the clothes, which were shown in the statue in the ancient Greece, were reflecting spirit and fashion of the times. The pleats, which were expressed in clothing, are closely related to a human body and simultaneously are those that a sculptor showed own creative intention in a work by reflecting a historical demand, thereby having become an important element of dominating the image in the whole clothing. Also, a change and development in expression were being progressed according to a flow of each period. Amidst what expressiveness based on lines are excellent, the unity and the dynamic formative characteristic were forming the mainstream. The design-based elements related to these characteristics are judged to possibly give many inspirations to designers in the modern fashion design sphere, which is mixed diverse styles, and are considered to be able to be helpful even for establishing newer and more creative design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.15-31
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• 2005

Suhainmyuldo(수하인물도) is a kind of picture which express a person under the tree and is known to be transmitted from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini(=Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India of from the 'Tree of Life' in W. Asia, and they had in fluenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way. For example, Jookrimchilhundo(죽림칠현도: seven wise men in bamboo forest), during Six Dynasty. The tree of life(arbor vitae, lignum viate), the origin of the Painting of figure under a tree(수하인물도), was spreaded in several regions around the center of Mesopotamia early, and them transmitted to Sasan dynasty of Persia, even to Islam, Byzantine, Romanesque, ancient East Asia. The mural painting found in the 4th Tongu Ogoe tomb, which was created after the 5th Tongu Ogoe tomb, used Obangsaek more than the 5th tomb painting did. (The term Obansaek refers to the five Korean traditional colors consisted of yellow, blue, white, red and black) The mural painting on the 4th Ogoe tomb employed distinct technique to depict an object in a certain color by painting the surroundings with different primary colors, making the painting look more exotic and mysterious.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.712-722
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.67-77
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to investigate the origin of ku and changes of styles from ancient times to recent times. It will contribute to recent times . It will contribute the correct understanding of the historical change of clothing materials. For this study historical comparative method were utilized using documentary records and relic of ku. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were the first clothes that human beings put on in order to protect human body against the cold. Ku was widely worn by many people in Asia dynasty. ku was an out fit for protection against the cold and it was made of animal fur. 2. The ancient times, the northern part of korean peninsular and Manchus were the mainfield of action of korean people. At this time, koreans preferred the ho-bok that the nomadic tribe used put on. But the territiory of unified Silla was limited to the southern part of korean peninsular, and it be supposed that ku was preferred only in a certain local community and social class. In Chosun dynasty , ku was also adopted as garment for protection against cold. During Sung-Zong and Chung -Zong era it was so popularized that both men and women in noble class preferred it. But in latter part of Chosun dynasty government worned the nation against extravagance in living, ku lots its popurality and it was modified into another garments such as gotzaugori, baeza and magoza.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.37-41
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• 2010

It is a universal phenomenon for people to establish ideal images of man according to a specific time, society and race. Thus, people have invested endless endeavor to reach the standard of ideal image. Especially, they made efforts to embody the ideal image of man as a perfect human image using appearance feature like a human body and clothing. Shi jing(詩經) is considered as a very valuable source book which reveals the life style, customs, thinking, ideas, and emotion of people of that period. The purpose of this study is to analyze the ideal image of man and woman which ancient Chinese pursued, focusing Shi jing(詩經). The results are as following. The ideal image of man is nice, handsome, dignified, generous and gentle. Besides, he should have adequate sense of humor, tall height. clear eye, broad forehead, moderate and upright behavior, outstanding horsemanship and marksmanship and braveness. Meanwhile, the ideal image of woman was described as gentle, decent, and graceful. Also, she should have tall height, light complexion, pretty hand, long neck, broad forehead, clear eyes, and charming black hair. The ideal beauty of woman included nobility and elegant personality in addition to the good physical appearance.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.26-37
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• 2009

This study has begun as to identify various forms of personified Hindu deitiesand its goal is to understand the symbols of Hindu which are the backgrounds of the modern Hindu culture and present the hairstyle images of ancient Indians through the Hindu deities of the era. Scope of the research has been determined to six major deitiesamong those from Hindu culture that affect the Indian society and the images of Hindu deitiesappeared in the Indian miniatures and sculptures were studied as times changed. The deities could be identified by symbols maintained in common by each divinity as the Hindu deities were diversified through the long history. Examining the transitions in hairstyles and headstyles of Hindu deities, hair shapes of spiraling curls were expressed in the ancient Hindu sculptures from $2^{nd}$ century to $6^{th}$ century due to the influence of early Indian Buddhism. In Hindu paintings from $15^{th}$ century to $19^{th}$ century, beards and sideburns were expressed in male deities due to the influence from Mugul arts, while feminine characters were emphasized in goddesses with long loose hair. Works are each presented encapsulating the results of the researches on Vishnu and Lakshmi from these Hindu deities. It is attempted to find Hindu image and present directions for developments of modern beauty by supplying motives to modern hair design by researching the hairstyles of Hindu deities.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.30-44
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• 2010

The definition of pregnancy has changed as society and its values have developed through different periods of history. In the ancient period, the definition of a woman's fertility was that female deities provided fecundity to barren women and barren land, and protected both the pregnant women during the period of gestation and also the land during the time of growth. These goddesses also administered the appropriate ceremonial rituals for conception and childbirth, and for planting and harvesting. After that, for the last 2,000 years, the most conspicuous icon has been "The Virgin Mary with the Infant Christ". Mary was the mother of Jesus Christ and model for Christian women. However, the centuries the image of woman and pregnancy has been changed, modern society through education, careers and job opportunities allows many women to be more than just a wife or a mother. Moreover, in the 21st century, many pregnant women want stylish maternity wear because they are proud and their minds are opened by these new icons of birth culture as like the pregnancy of many famous stars. From this the purposes of this study are as follows, Firstly, to study on the meaning of woman's fertility from ancient period to present time by social changes. Secondly, to investigate the historical concept of the maternity wear for current modern maternity fashion market. Finally, to expect to use this study would be helpful basic data for develop of the new researches of the maternity fashion in the future.